Won't start - 2003 Tige 24V

[Stingreye]

On mine if you press in the button where the throttle is connected, it will let you Rev the engine not in gear. It also let you start it because the transmission is still in neutral.

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[IDBoating]

On mine if you press in the button where the throttle is connected, it will let you Rev the engine not in gear. It also let you start it because the transmission is still in neutral.

I almost typed "I wish the neutral button overrode the lockout switch", but then figured they still wouldn't want you to start the engine with the throttle off of idle because you might have it at WOT and starting an engine at WOT isn't a great idea . Have you actually done this? Can you start the engine at 50%, 75%, 100% throttle? Yikes...!

[boatwakes]

On the shifter lever mont there's a silver button. Pull the button out and that disengages the shift mechanism and allows the throttle to be moved while in neutral. When the lever is returned back to neutral the button should pop back into place but it may not, so be sure to push it in when you're ready to shift it. There are a couple different shift lever options so if you don't see the silver button, please take a picture of the lever assembly so I can tell you how to do it.

[boatwakes]

I almost typed "I wish the neutral button overrode the lockout switch", but then figured they still wouldn't want you to start the engine with the throttle off of idle because you might have it at WOT and starting an engine at WOT isn't a great idea . Have you actually done this? Can you start the engine at 50%, 75%, 100% throttle? Yikes...!

You can only start an EFI motor up to 50% throttle and anything above that the fuel and not the spark is cut off (flooded clearing mode) until the throttle position is returned to less than or equal to 50%.

[IDBoating]

So it is possible to start the engine at 50% throttle. Wow. An unloaded (tranny in neutral) engine at half throttle is going to redline, I'd bet. Scary.

[Bendog]

I had no idea of that button... I went and looked at my boat last night and sure enough, what looked like just a bolt/screw holding the throttle on is indeed a button. I am dying to see if it just got flooded and I couldn't start it or something to that effect but I don't have my fake a lake yet (ordered on Saturday) so don't want to try to start it yet. I think it gets here today or tomorrow.

Let's say by giving it some more gas that it does start, what you lean towards it being then? If I could start it then I'm thinking it has to be a fuel problem, and if being able to give it more gas would mean it is starved for fuel? But that seems strange because when it was running and above 1500 RPM it runs perfect, so you wouldn't think that. Maybe it's getting flooded at low RPMs? What would do that? I am going to test the fuel pump and all the other recommendations this weekend because by the time I get off work it's too late and I have to help kids with homework and all that. So hoping that this Saturday I can tear into it.

[Bendog]

throttle.jpg

This is the throttle, that button pushes in which is what I'm assuming you're talking about. I couldn't start the motor to verify it disengages the transmission but I'm assuming it does as what else would they put a button like that for. They should have made it at least look like a button! I was stuck out on the lake and my biggest ask was I wish there were a way to give it gas while starting or try and clear the flood. Ha ha... live and learn I guess!

[Stingreye]

If it's only happening at low rpm you're most likely having a problem with the idle air control valve. If the boat starts with throttle applied (25% or so) then dies when you pull it back, that's the problem.

See Boatwakes reply ^^^ he suspects an idle air control valve. Be careful starting on trailer with a fake a lake. I know its safe at idle but I don't know about if you are giving it speed.

I had no clue about the button either at first. I don't remember when I figured it out but I bet it was from this forum.

[Bendog]

See Boatwakes reply ^^^ he suspects an idle air control valve. Be careful starting on trailer with a fake a lake. I know its safe at idle but I don't know about if you are giving it speed.

I had no clue about the button either at first. I don't remember when I figured it out but I bet it was from this forum.

You're right, I read that and even put that in my checklist but didn't right down that he directly mentioned what I asked. Sorry, I don't normally ask a question that has already been answered but I guess was so giddy from learning this new trick that while I was at the lake I was positive if I could figure out I'd have been in business.

I'll be super careful with the fake a lake and giving it some speed. I'll have someone watching it. I'll also back off immediately when it starts, but I do realize that if it does start it's likely going straight to redline so will have to pull back fast.

[boatwakes]

Do it!!! Redline!!! Had a customer do that the other day with his carbureted motors and almost fell off the boat when he said that was always how he did it. Don't worry about redline, won't happen as the ECM drops both spark and fuel above 5100 and it won't get there. I'm glad your aware but don't be afraid of applying throttle to get it to start in this instance. And for those reading, you should not have to apply throttle to start an efi motor when it's operating properly, this is for diagnostic purposes only. Be dog, lastly, the button where the screw resides in the throttle on your shifter is where you push in to disengage the shifter cable and apply throttle in neutral, on that model.

[IDBoating]

Don't worry about redline, won't happen as the ECM drops both spark and fuel above 5100 and it won't get there.

Agreed that EFI engines won't go past redline, but it just violates everything in me to run a stone-cold engine that hard at startup. If it's gotta be done for diagnostic reasons, I guess, but man it would be hard.

[Bendog]

Sorry... another dumb question. I went to hook up the fake a lake and there are two inlets. One looks more factory (the black one) and the other is likely for the ballast the person put on, but want to confirm. I say the other one doesn't look factor as it used way more silicone and such, just seemed more home done.

Do I put the fake a lake over the black one or the silver one? The black on has this little like spinner thing in it, assuming it's to keep lake gunk out?

download.jpg

[chpthril]

The raw water inlet for the engine should be a scoop, not a mushroom. And when you get a chance, that bronze one looks like it could use another tube of clear silicone around it

[Bendog]

Well... I tried to start it by pushing in the button and clearing out the flood and also by just giving it some gas but to no avail. Sure seems like a fuel issue, was going to try to test the fuel pumps but it looks like a huge dust storm is about to blow in and I didn't want to get caught in a bunch of dust with fuel lines exposed, etc. Was really hoping it would start with just some gas or clearing a flooded motor.

[IDBoating]

I went to hook up the fake a lake and there are two inlets. One looks more factory (the black one) and the other is likely for the ballast the person put on, but want to confirm.

The black one is your speedometer transducer, possibly a triducer that also senses depth and water temperature. No water goes in there.

The brass one is undoubtedly for your ballast system.

Neither of these is your engine water intake, and the Fake-a-Lake doesn't go on either one.

As ChpThril said, the engine intake should be a scoop. It will protrude more below the hull and have forward-facing slots to catch the water as you drive forward, thus assisting the raw water impeller. On my boat, it is on the opposite side of the keel from the triducer.