Help with shaft removal

[worsty]

I have removed many a shaft, but never my own 2004 20V Switch. I have the prop removed and the shaft unbolted from the V-drive. The transmission/V-drive coupler will not budge. Heated it and tried a gear puller on it, to no joy. I have removed the inner 1-1/16" nut and set screw from the coupler, am I missing something else? There is no way this is a reversed taper coupler, is there? That would mean that the V-drive would have to be removed. I can send photos for clarity if someone can advise.
I'm also, removing the strut log or cutlass bearing and replacing it after the shaft is re-conditioned and checked for trueness. The dripless is still in "new" like condition, so that will not be changed. Any suggestions on a good resource to purchase the log/cutlass bearing would be appreciated too. I'm in an area of heavy salt water user, so my resources are salt water orientated. I do NOT use this boat in any salt water, keeping to the inland lakes and canals. I only ask since zincs are supposed to be different for salt water versus fresh water. I believe magnesium is used in fresh water rather than salt?? So, is there a difference in the cutlass bearings too? Fresh Vs. Salt water? I would not think so, but do not want to be the fool.
Help from anyone would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance. (My kids thank you too!)

[dom w. forte]

We have made a slide hammer with a nut welded to a nut that fit the slide and after removeing the flange nut we re fastened the flange to the v drive and use the slide hammer to pop the shaft by hooking the slide to the prop shaft at the back.

[boatwakes]

Whats the v-drive model number so I can familiarize myself with what you're talking about. We deal with a ton of different set ups so I just need clarification on which unit it is.

[boatwakes]

Okay, yes they're double taper shafts, hence the nut inside the coupler. As Dom said, use a slide hammer on the prop nut threads and rebolt the coupler to the v-drive before proceeding. Replace the cutlass only if it's worn (teleflex will have the size you need, 1 1/8 I.D. and whatever the outside diameter is for the strut). There are set screws for the cutlass too. We usually hacksaw the barrel top and bottom and then fit a hardened socket with the same outside diameter and pound them out. Freeze the new one before you put it in and the installation process will go much easier. Cutlass bearings are universal, naval bronze outside diameter and vulcanized rubber inner.

[worsty]

I will try Dom's suggestion and let you know how it turns out. I hope to borrow a slide hammer shortly and then there will be joy once again within the household! Thank you Dom and boatwakes for confirming the taper and cutlass.

[worsty]

UPDATE: I was able to remove everything and have it repaired/checked. Also, removed the cutlass bearing without much effort. Funny note though, the rudder shaft was bent and needed to be straightened. The prop had one of the four blades folded over and was repaired by Coastal Props here in Florida, but the shaft was perfect. They still conditioned it, but was true. Anyway, thank you to Dom and "Boatwakes" for you input and suggestions.