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2014 Tige battery and TAPS issues

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    2014 Tige battery and TAPS issues

    Hello everyone,

    I have two issues with my Z1 currently, and I posted the topic about the batteries about 2 weeks ago and never got a response so I am coping and pasting that one below for anyone that might have insight about that issue.

    I also currently have a problem with my taps on the boat. The taps mechanically works, but the gauge does not work on the actual gauge or the screen. I have done a gauge diagnostic and the gauge does go low, mid, high. I have done a taps relearn where I put it to the 1 position and then put it in the 8 and that did nothing besides peg my gauge at 8. Any ideas on what I can check to see what I can do to fix it? I can mess with the taps for a while and get it to the right position to surf but its just annoying not being able to just see that its at a certain level.


    Currently I have a 2014 Tige Z1. I have two optimum blue top batteries both dual purpose. One is a group 27 and one a 31. Recently the radio has been freaking out and I can't run the radio when the boat is turned off unless im on both batteries. When I am only running one battery the radio will turn on and off very quickly over and over again. Once I turn it to both batteries the radio and all other electrical works without problems. I am wondering if having lithium ion batteries is a problem for my year and model. I had someone tell me I can't run batteries like the blue tops because I need to change my battery charger and my alternator. That was after I had already bought and used the batteries. Just looking for insight if just changing the batteries back to lead/ acid would fix all my electrical problems going on with the radio. Also with the batteries in the 1 position the amps will blink red and the speakers will make a slight droning noise.

    Thanks for any help in advance,
    Seaton

    #2
    I have a 2012 Z3 with the same issue with TAPS 2 gauge not working. No solution yet, but check out another post: Taps 2 repair. My gauge now works!

    As for the battery issue. I have problems with the house battery charging when the switch is not on Combined. I have regular lead acid batteries though. Replaced the house battery last year. I think there is something wrong with the module on the transom that is supposed to direct charge to the batteries from the alternator through the switch. With the battery switch in the isolated (first) position it doesn't seem to send enough to the house battery and it gradually runs down and eventually I start getting a low voltage message on the Tige Touch. Doesn't happen right away when the batteries are freshly charged from a battery charger. Only after 5 or 10 hours running the boat. In the first position, I believe it is supposed to charge the cranking battery first by preference and once charged then send more current to the house battery (or the reverse), but it isn't working well enough for the house battery in that first position, so I leave my switch on combined.
    Have you checked the voltage or checked with a battery charger to see if your house battery is getting fully charged in the first position? Is it getting fully charged in the combined position? The issue I have sounds much the same as your issue.

    Comment


      #3
      Thank you for sending me that article about the TAPS 2. I will try and check that out when I have a little more time to mess around with the wiring and stuff. That looks like it could be quite the job. As for the battery I have the same issue. After some time the house will get run down unless it is in the combined position. I have checked the voltage from everything. From the alternator I was getting in the 13s and when I tested the volts for the parts that charge each battery I was getting high 12s. I have a friend that works tige and he was telling me that I need to just switch the whole system over to a blue seas charging relay. That is a job I wasn't willing to do during the summer as it is gonna be hot as crap in that engine bay doing all that wiring. I figured I would just wait till the offseason. He told me that our systems was very outdated and the ACR would be alot better that the current system we have.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Seatonberry View Post
        Hello everyone,

        I have two issues with my Z1 currently, and I posted the topic about the batteries about 2 weeks ago and never got a response so I am coping and pasting that one below for anyone that might have insight about that issue.

        I also currently have a problem with my taps on the boat. The taps mechanically works, but the gauge does not work on the actual gauge or the screen. I have done a gauge diagnostic and the gauge does go low, mid, high. I have done a taps relearn where I put it to the 1 position and then put it in the 8 and that did nothing besides peg my gauge at 8. Any ideas on what I can check to see what I can do to fix it? I can mess with the taps for a while and get it to the right position to surf but its just annoying not being able to just see that its at a certain level.


        Currently I have a 2014 Tige Z1. I have two optimum blue top batteries both dual purpose. One is a group 27 and one a 31. Recently the radio has been freaking out and I can't run the radio when the boat is turned off unless im on both batteries. When I am only running one battery the radio will turn on and off very quickly over and over again. Once I turn it to both batteries the radio and all other electrical works without problems. I am wondering if having lithium ion batteries is a problem for my year and model. I had someone tell me I can't run batteries like the blue tops because I need to change my battery charger and my alternator. That was after I had already bought and used the batteries. Just looking for insight if just changing the batteries back to lead/ acid would fix all my electrical problems going on with the radio. Also with the batteries in the 1 position the amps will blink red and the speakers will make a slight droning noise.

        Thanks for any help in advance,
        Seaton
        Your issue sounds like theres something wrong with the ACR and Lithium batteries will not fix it.
        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by chpthril View Post

          Your issue sounds like theres something wrong with the ACR and Lithium batteries will not fix it.
          I checked all of the connections to all wiring and all of it checked out. I checked both isolators and got in the high 12 volts. Could the lithium ion batteries be the problem? I also dont have and ACR setup yet. I was saying in a post earlier that I would like to change everything out in the future to make it into a ACR since it is more reliable. I have to older generation system, but at this time I cant remember the name of it.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Seatonberry View Post

            I checked all of the connections to all wiring and all of it checked out. I checked both isolators and got in the high 12 volts. Could the lithium ion batteries be the problem? I also dont have and ACR setup yet. I was saying in a post earlier that I would like to change everything out in the future to make it into a ACR since it is more reliable. I have to older generation system, but at this time I cant remember the name of it.
            If your 2014 came from the factory with a dual bank battery setup, it has a voltage sensing relay.
            Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by chpthril View Post

              If your 2014 came from the factory with a dual bank battery setup, it has a voltage sensing relay.
              yes it came from the factory with the dual battery set up. I have check the relay and all was working fine. By checking I mean I just popped the relay part and then push it back into the relay.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Seatonberry View Post

                yes it came from the factory with the dual battery set up. I have check the relay and all was working fine. By checking I mean I just popped the relay part and then push it back into the relay.
                Yeah, I dont think thats the voltage sensing relay you checked. it needs to be checked with a volt meter while the engine is running. What I believe you did was trip a manual-reset circuit breaker and reset it.
                Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by chpthril View Post

                  Yeah, I dont think thats the voltage sensing relay you checked. it needs to be checked with a volt meter while the engine is running. What I believe you did was trip a manual-reset circuit breaker and reset it.
                  Would you be able to link what they look like? I wont be back around my boat till middle of next week. At that point I can send you a picture of what I thought was the voltage sensing relay.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Alright I went out on my boat tonight and I was still having the same issue. Was on 1 battery and the radio wouldnt stay on even after I had just started it. Switched it over to both batteries and everything worked fine. I also took some photos while I was out there to show what I test with the volt meter. I have attached them all below. If you click on the pictures you can see what I said about each picture. I also put my voltmeter on both thermal circuit breakers individually and got somewhere above 12 volts but I dont remember the specific number.
                    Last edited by Seatonberry; 08-10-2023, 02:24 AM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      In pic # 2 you show a relay. To the right of the relay and partly in the pic, is the ACR
                      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Alright so that ACR is what I need to replace to fix my battery issue?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          It needs to be tested as its what I would first suspect. That Batcom is a POS.
                          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Alright. Do you know what type of voltage I should see when I put it on there to test? Is there anything special I need to do to test it with my voltmeter or test it pretty much like anything else on the battery system.

                            Comment

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