Battery Charging / Chargers

[Jeff T]

Yes, I have searched and read many threads, most of which were pretty old. I could use some advice because I suck at electronics.

1: With the EDIB setup, I have the on/off switch and iso. Is it safe, despite the warning stickers, to charge batteries without unhooking all electronics from them as long as the switch is off?

2: The power cable for my amps is wired directly to the deep cylce, not through the switch. Does this change the level of safety of charging w/o unhooking the power from the battery?

With three amps drawing power from my deep cycle, I need a SAFE charger to re-charge the deep cycle at night (Sat night for example) or during the week. I would prefer to leave electronics hooked up to battery if I can just to save time, but again, see questions 1 and 2. Here is an important fact: My boat stays on a lift. I do have power and can run an extension cable into the boat, but the boat does stay in a covered slip. That said, there is some exposure to the elements (humidity, temp changes, etc.). I'm not looking to install an onboard charger just yet, but I might down the road.

3: Any advice on what I should be looking for in a batt charger? What features (charge voltage, float voltage, amps, stages, etc.) should I be looking for to be sure I'm protected and to be sure it is effective in toping off the batt? I have read about the battery tender charger. Is this the way to go?

4: Brand suggestions? Places to buy?

[Jason B]

For what you spend on a good charger to do what you want and be as safe as you want, you'd be better served with an onboard charger--just plug it in and you're done. That's it! No lugging a charger, plugging it in, then connecting to the batteries.....much, much simpler. Watch ebay and you can find a nice 2 bank charger for around 100-150$ or about the same price as a really nice battery charger.

[Jeff T]

Ok. Any suggestions on what to look for in an onboard?

[laserfish]

I bought a pro charger for my boat this winter from Bass Pro Shops. Have had them on bass boats for years, but never put one on the ski boat because I never had a stereo like I have now to drain the battery. All I can say is WHAT TOOK ME SO LONG! It is by far one of the easiest things I have done. Plug it in and it charges both batteries, if one is charged and one not, the full strength goes to the one not charged. After they are charged, I leave it plugged in and they are maintained. According to every site I went to, the batteries will last much longer by keeping them maintained. Just be sure you get the electronic type that will not just continuously trickle charge and boil them dry. Good luck, they save a ton of aggrivation.

[chpthril]

1: With the EDIB setup, I have the on/off switch and iso. Is it safe, despite the warning stickers, to charge batteries without unhooking all electronics from them as long as the switch is off?

Yes, just dont use the 50a fast charge or 250a boot/jump settings present on most shop chargers. Use the 20a or less setting (less for longer is better anyway).

2: The power cable for my amps is wired directly to the deep cylce, not through the switch. Does this change the level of safety of charging w/o unhooking the power from the battery?

No, see first answer

3: Any advice on what I should be looking for in a batt charger? What features (charge voltage, float voltage, amps, stages, etc.) should I be looking for to be sure I'm protected and to be sure it is effective in toping off the batt? I have read about the battery tender charger. Is this the way to go?

Like Jason said, go with an on-board Tender/charger with settings for diff battery types such as lead acid wet-cel and Gel-cel' Make sure it is a "Smart Charger" as they will step down the amp out put to the battery(s) as they came up to full charge. This prevents overheating/boiling which will shorten the life of the battery.

4: Brand suggestions? Places to buy?

Zantrex, Pro Mariner ProSport,

[dogbert]

I'll second the recommendation for Pro Mariner. Boater's World has some pretty good prices. Last month they had the Pro Mariner 12 on sale for $89. It'll charge 2 batteries at once.

[Jeff T]

OK. I have read about on board chargers tonight until I feel like my eyes are going to pop out of my head. I swear I'm going to dream about float charging tonight...but I digress.

At this point, i'm leaning toward the promariner pro-series chargers (12 or 20amp). They seem to be more ready to use and "waterproof", which to me seems like a smart choice since the boat stays on the lift. Also, the promariner allows me 20 amps for 2 batt bank and the xantrex options are 10 amp to 2 batteries or 20+ for 3 batteries (higher cost). The promariner website states that these units have over voltage control, which I assume means spikes in AC power. The xantrex seems to have a more robust surge control than the promariner.

I still have questions that I can't seem to get answered by reading product manuals.

Question 1-What difference does the available amp charge rating make? Is it just speed of charge? For example: Does the promariner prosport 20 just charge faster than the 12? Is it more or less safe based on amp charge alone?

Question 2-How can I tell if the pro-mariner is a "smart charger"? I don't read the specific terms "smart charger" in any product descriptions like the xantrex. The promariner prosports do have 3 stages:

Stage 1: ProSport Charging
During this mode, the ProSport will use its available charging amps (as controlled by temperature) until battery voltage is raised to 14.6 VDC (Factory setting for standard Flooded (Lead-acid) / AGM batteries).
Stage 2: ProSport ConditioningThe ProSport will hold batteries at 14.6 VDC (Factory setting for Flooded (Lead-acid) / AGM batteries) providing a 100% charge to each battery, while conditioning batteries by desulfating each battery. Upon completion, the pro sport will go to into its maintenance mode.
Stage 3: ProSport Ready / Maintenance Mode
During this mode, the Red Charging LED and the RED Battery Type LED (Factory set charge profile for standard Flooded (Lead-acid / AGM Batteries) will turn off indicating the Charge Process is completed, followed by the Green READY LED turning On. The Green READY LED and the Blue AC POWER LED will remain on indicating that your batteries are fully charged and are being maintained with a precision 13.4 Volts DC Finishing Voltage (Factory set charge profile for standard Flooded (Lead-acid / AGM Batteries). ProSport’s Ready/Maintenance Mode is perfect for short or long term storage and will never overcharge your batteries.

Question 3: If I'm not mistaken, the safety concern is around volt level. As you read above, stages 1 and 2 hold at 14.6v before dropping down in maintenance mode. Is this safe? Typical?

[dogbert]

To answer your question, the Pro Mariner is a smart charger and will automatically begin scaling back it's charging and ultimately go into maintenance mode to prevent over-charging. As for the # of amps, keep in mind that if you're doing more than 1 battery, that each battery will only get half if they both need charging. I have the Pro Mariner 12 and it's plenty. I had my alternator go out last year and was able to keep using the boat over the weekend by just plugging it in for a couple of hours while eating meals and it recharged my battery that had been run down to the point of being unusable.

[Jeff T]

Thanks Dogbert. 2 Questions: How many batteries do you have? Where did you mount your unit?

As I as reading through the product manual, it clearly states not to mount this unit on carpet? I was going to mount in the back storage, just above the battery box on the removable compartment wall.

[Jeff T]

Does anyone know if the addition of an onboard charger voids the warranty?

[da.bell]

No, it does not void he warranty.

[xpjim1]

I just bought the ProSPort12 from pro mariner. I installed it in the Starboard side rear locker on the back of the seat. Look at tigeduner's ballast post and his battery charger is in the same spot. If you go with the Pro mariner make sure you get the 2nd generation unit. It has the lights on the upper right front of the charger. The downside of this charger is since it shares the amps between the 2 batteries both batteries have to be the same type since charging profiles are diferrent between AGM and . Got a great deal at Bass pro Shops as the charger was on sale and if you open a charge account you get 10% more off. My other choice was the Dual XL Pro.

[trudelle]

what about this model that i previously have from sears. after reading all of the posts i too am now thinking about how i am going to charge my batteries, especially after i add a 2nd deep cycle.(starter battery and 2 deep cycle batteries);

DieHard Microprocessor - Controlled Battery Charger and Tester, 80 Amp Engine Start
Sears item# 02871225000 Mfr. model# 71225
Easy to use, this Fully Automatic Battery Charger/Maintainer, 80 Amp Engine Start, Battery and Alternator Tester with Reverse Hook-Up Protection for 6 and 12 volt batteries is ideal for Automotive, AGM, Gel Cell and Deep Cycle batteries. 30 Amp Rapid and 12 Amp Fast charges for Car, Truck, Marine, RV and Farm Equipment keeps you moving! The 2 Amp Slow/Maintenance is ideal for Motorcycle, ATV, Snowmobile, Lawn Tractor size batteries by providing power at all times and to keep batteries warm too. Includes:125 amp battery clamps for top and side-mount battery posts. UL listed.

this is what i was planning on using to charge the batteries after a long day on the lake with the tunes cranked all day... what is the main difference between what i have and an onboard charger?....... sorry but i don't like electronics too many things can go wrong and seem to do... so should i keep the charger i ahve and use it for my motorcycle/cars and get an onboard?

[Jeff T]

Thanks. How many batteries do you have? I'm wondering if the 12 amp is enough to charge both my batteries (deep cycle and crank) overnight...which is why I was leaning towards the 20amp.

[da.bell]

I have a 20 amp with 4 batteries in the boat (only two are charged with the charger/tender). Haven't had an issue yet with the batteries not being fully charged within 12 hours.