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19 zx1 will not start

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    19 zx1 will not start

    Picked up a brand new zx1 on Friday. Put it in the water today ran all day. On the way back to the trailer the boat suddenly died. I couldn't figure out what it was. No faults were given but got a beeping sound. Cycled the power and she started back up. Died again a few minutes later.

    Wont turn over when I turn the key. Nothing. Looked at the voltage meter on the screen and my house is at 12.5 and the crank is listing 0. Battery selector is on both and all of the breakers in front of the batteries are not tripped.

    Help. Dont really want to miss out on tomorrow, especially since dealer is 2 hours away and I am assuming this is something simple. I checked all the fuses I could find.


    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

    #2
    Cranking battery wont list voltage at screen unless key is in IGN position(one turn to the right). Not sure on a 19 zx1(because havent had an issue with one) but in years past there was an inline fuse on the purple wire leaving the key switch. Id say if you key on to the right and you dont hear the fuel pump run (and heater pump if equipped) then the ECM isnt getting voltage. Also if key is in IGN position and you arent getting a voltage or engine hours reading on the vessel data pull out bar at screen then ECM isnt getting voltage.

    Also, no brainer but have to ask, shifter is in neutral and the kill lanyard switch is closed ya??

    EDIT, didnt notice that you said it started again and then died a few minutes later. Something else sounds like it is the issue.
    Last edited by freeheel4life; 06-23-2019, 12:55 AM.

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      #3
      Have you been running with the battery switch on the COMBINE position all day? In the Combine, batteries should read the same, regardless of their level.
      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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        #4
        They were in combine all day. I will poke around behind the ignition switch to see if I see anything loose.

        Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

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          #5
          May not be relevant right now, but ON is the proper position to put the switch in. COMBINE is for emergency start.
          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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            #6
            Thank you. Will run that way from now on once I get it running again.

            Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk
            Last edited by bennenrkc; 06-23-2019, 01:37 AM. Reason: Was worried I sounded like a ****.

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              #7
              check battery connections are tight

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                #8
                Originally posted by kiwia View Post
                check battery connections are tight
                They are. Is there a wiring diagram available to the public?

                Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

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                  #9
                  Nope. If you really want to chase wires heres some basics. Starboard battery under spotters is cranking battery. House on the port is a deep cycle. Behind the batteries are a ground and positive bus bar(Pos is stbd behindcranked, ground is port behind deep).

                  They have some covers on them that just have 2 Phillip's screws holding them on. The master switch connections and ACR need to be checked if you go this far. You can pull the plastic hiding it by removing the 2 or 3 screws at the bow(where seat backer flips up on port side) and the 2 screws at the spotter seat that pulls up.

                  If you dont find any loose connections there check starter and ground stud just under the starter. That's basic "cranking circuit ". Beyond that ECM takes over

                  I'm still wondering if you hear the fuel pump prime when you key on. If you have the engine hatch up you should also hear the throttle body make a snap sound when you key to ignition position at key switch. If you dont have this happen the ECM isnt in play and also wont show any codes at "Engine Diagnostic" menu at touch screen because the ecm isnt communicating on the can line.

                  Also, if you pull the cover off the engine theres a fuse box under there and some relays.
                  Last edited by freeheel4life; 06-23-2019, 03:31 AM.

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                    #10
                    Check the wiring harness that’s on the engine it’s a 3 prong main harness it may be the issue
                    surf till u die.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by freeheel4life View Post
                      Nope. If you really want to chase wires heres some basics. Starboard battery under spotters is cranking battery. House on the port is a deep cycle. Behind the batteries are a ground and positive bus bar(Pos is stbd behindcranked, ground is port behind deep).

                      They have some covers on them that just have 2 Phillip's screws holding them on. The master switch connections and ACR need to be checked if you go this far. You can pull the plastic hiding it by removing the 2 or 3 screws at the bow(where seat backer flips up on port side) and the 2 screws at the spotter seat that pulls up.

                      If you dont find any loose connections there check starter and ground stud just under the starter. That's basic "cranking circuit ". Beyond that ECM takes over

                      I'm still wondering if you hear the fuel pump prime when you key on. If you have the engine hatch up you should also hear the throttle body make a snap sound when you key to ignition position at key switch. If you dont have this happen the ECM isnt in play and also wont show any codes at "Engine Diagnostic" menu at touch screen because the ecm isnt communicating on the can line.

                      Also, if you pull the cover off the engine theres a fuse box under there and some relays.
                      Checked the inline fuse on purple wire not blown. Should one side have power always (if battery is on) or just when ignition is on?

                      I dont hear the fuel pump but it is somewhat loud where I am and trying to diagnose myself so cant be sure i am not just missing it.

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                        #12
                        Ok got it to somewhere quieter this morning. No noise when I turn the key whatsoever ever. Makes me think ecm isn't in play. Engine hours when key is on reads zero as well. Makes me think I dont have power getting to ignition


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                          #13
                          In the past the purple wire get 12v thru the key switch, goes thru the kill lanyard, then to ECM. If you have a meter I'd start at the key and work my way back. As Surf 406 said, checking the big plugs at the engine isnt a bad idea.

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                            #14
                            Just to update people as to the resolution. The solder on the back of the kill switch was poor and came off. Dealer fixed and I get to pick it up this weekend. Thanks for the help. Sure feel I got to know my boat a lot better after this regardless.

                            Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

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                              #15
                              Glad to hear your dealer got you back on the water and you know your way around the boat now!!

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