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Quasi limp mode??

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    Quasi limp mode??

    Took the boat out today - super excited to have the first real outing of the year with the fam. Come out of marina and boat went in to limp mode. Engine was overheating. Fixed that problem got water circulating and cooled the engine right down. Throttled up again and engine cut down to idle. Thought perhaps this was a residual problem with overheating. Kept on having problems the rest of the day. Sometimes the boat would throttle up fine, other times it would not come off idle. One time I was crushing along with wakeboarder behind me and went to adjust TAPS and instantly cut down to idle. Made me think it was a voltage problem like a bum batt but even in combine with house and cranking it would still exhibit same problem.

    Looked at the following threads :

    http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...ight=Limp+mode

    http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...ight=Limp+mode

    Have a 2006 marine power. Do I need to order a new potentiometer? Or rewire? If it's rewire, anyone have experience with this issue that can offer suggestions or point to another thread with pics?

    Hoping to get this dialed in by Monday. wishful thinking perhaps.
    Last edited by boonecragun; 05-30-2017, 12:55 PM.

    #2
    I experienced this for the first time last Tuesday as well, I was up top a cruising speed and filling the rear ballast, adjusted the TAPS and the boat dropped to idle without any alarms sounding. Transmission worked fine but the boat would not respond to throttle inputs. Restarted the boat and the next few hours were fine (except for the depth alarm diving me nuts, needs to be adjusted).
    I hope yours is an easy fix, I'll be watching and hoping mine does not act up again.

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      #3
      If you're handy with a meter you can easily check voltage going into the potentiometer and watch the voltage change as the throttle position is changed.

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        #4
        Have also had issues with marine power throttle control module. The answer from marine power was to run a dedicated fused power and ground directly to module.

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          #5
          The computer and potentiometer need to get power from the same battery I think--if they detect a difference in voltage it limps. IIRC


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
          Time flies like an arrow; fruit flies like bananas!

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            #6
            Update: I ran the boat all day today. Again coming out of the marina adjusted TAPS and engine shut down to idle. Pulled throttle back to neutral and slowly engaged and ran up to 2500 rpms. Had an idea to turn perfect pass on (wasn't using it two days prior when it started acting up). Ran fine all day with perfect pass system on (ran it in rpm mode but had setting up high - 4000 rpms - so the system never got to engage) and it ran fine with the PP system on. As bizarre as it is, I may just replace the pot and see what result is. With perfect pass system on it takes over the ECM and maybe cleans up the voltage at the Pot.


            Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

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