Speedset will not adjust

[WYTige?]

WOW!!!!! That is great news for owners!!! Kudos to you for doing this.

[IDBoating]

Despite Richards best efforts my unit could not be resuscitated.

To add a bit of detail: There appear to be multiple fractures in the flex circuit pigtail that runs from the snapdome switches to the PCB. These are affecting the center switch, which is not brought out to the connector like the "Slower" and "Faster" switches are. Instead, it connects internally to a little dedicated microcontroller whose job is to convert this momentary pushbutton to toggle switch behavior. It appears both sides of that switch's connections have been fractured. I was able to fix one of them, but the other is inaccessible without really tearing into the potting material. I am unwilling to do that with someone else's panel because if they wish to exchange it for a new one, I'm not sure how Tige will react to a mangled panel. I'd do it to mine (as chrisnow did), but not to someone else's.

Try and either replace the switches and rewire the existing pcb. If that isn't possible, try and get a new pcb completely and wire up some switches and hope it works.

You could perhaps grind away the potting material across all eight pins of the pigtail connector and hardwire some new switches in parallel with the snapdomes. That *should* work. But it is not practical to just replace the panel with three switches because of that little MCU in there. Once upon a time, I suspect those three switches went directly to the ECU to control its internal cruise control, but now the Medallion box sits between them. This panel is the only way to interact with Medallion's menu system, and they are watching for rising AND falling edges. A momentary switch, by itself, won't duplicate this behavior. A toggle switch will, but your use of the menu will be weird to say the least.

I'll spill the beans here and reveal that our team has prioritized completion of a replacement back end for this Tige touchpad. The plan is that you will use the existing frame and rubber overlay, replace the backplate with our unit that will have a compatible 12 pin connector on it, and voila - problem solved permanently. Six screws and you'll be done. From the dash it will look OEM, and it will work OEM too. But the horribly bad design of the original will be eliminated, replaced by a SOLID design that should last the life of the boat. Your boat's resale value will be preserved, your functionality will be the same, no new holes in the dash, nothing will change except things will work PROPERLY and you won't have to worry about the unit failing in the middle of your summer. And we won't charge $1250 for it either.

We'll keep everyone posted as things develop. Shouldn't take long, two of our team members have literally decades of experience designing (in one guy's words) "zillions" of keyboards like this one.

More soon... thanks!

[ChrisSnow]

Watch this space :-) killerbren and myself are coming up with a plan for anyone that may need a solution :-)

[ChrisSnow]

Figured I would post this up, as I know there are others out there that are in the same position as I am.

So I had a speed set panel that wasn't working and finally got around to pulling it and shipping it down to Richard (aka IDBoating... formerly WABoating). Unfortunately for myself, despite Richards best efforts my unit could not be resuscitated. RIP Speed Set.

So where to go from here? There is no way I'm going to dish out money to replace the panel with another poorly designed speed set panel that WILL (not may) fail again. I see 2 options:

1) Do what Dakota did and convert the throttle by wire into a throttle by cable and use perfect pass.
2) Try and either replace the switches and rewire the existing pcb. If that isn't possible, try and get a new pcb completely and wire up some switches and hope it works.

I'm going to go with the second option first and see how it goes down. I'll keep everyone posted on the progress. Hopefully we find a solution to our nightmare.

trying to PM you back but "killerbren has exceeded their stored private messages quota and cannot accept further messages until they clear some space" :-)

[killerbren]

Figured I would post this up, as I know there are others out there that are in the same position as I am.

So I had a speed set panel that wasn't working and finally got around to pulling it and shipping it down to Richard (aka IDBoating... formerly WABoating). Unfortunately for myself, despite Richards best efforts my unit could not be resuscitated. RIP Speed Set.

So where to go from here? There is no way I'm going to dish out money to replace the panel with another poorly designed speed set panel that WILL (not may) fail again. I see 2 options:

1) Do what Dakota did and convert the throttle by wire into a throttle by cable and use perfect pass.
2) Try and either replace the switches and rewire the existing pcb. If that isn't possible, try and get a new pcb completely and wire up some switches and hope it works.

I'm going to go with the second option first and see how it goes down. I'll keep everyone posted on the progress. Hopefully we find a solution to our nightmare.

[killerbren]

Yes, but it's only in the "kicking around" stage so far. We're super busy with other projects at the moment but once those settle down a bit we'll probably probe the Tige market and see if there's enough quantity to justify a build. Need to line up 50-100 buyers to justify the effort and keep individual costs to something affordable for everyone.

I am another guy interested in buying, I'm sure it won't be very hard to find 50-100 people who hate their speedset.

[IDBoating]

WABoating - are you still kicking around the idea of designing and producing a permanent fix?

Yes, but it's only in the "kicking around" stage so far. We're super busy with other projects at the moment but once those settle down a bit we'll probably probe the Tige market and see if there's enough quantity to justify a build. Need to line up 50-100 buyers to justify the effort and keep individual costs to something affordable for everyone.

[dt535xi]

Awesome thread - just read it in it's entirety. WABoating - are you still kicking around the idea of designing and producing a permanent fix? I for one would be willing to pre-order and get in line for a working unit. I have a 2007 22ve and let's just say it's developed some quirks and is probably close to failure. For instance, I have to hold down the set button to get the up and down buttons to work. Actually, I'm not even sure my down button works at all. So, I'm definitely interested in putting money into a well designed unit built to last rather than a unit designed to fail.

Thanks!

[IDBoating]

Mine arrived yesterday. Installed this morning & it's fully functional again.

Delighted it's working for you! Have a great summer!

[twinturbostroker]

Mine arrived yesterday.
Installed this morning & it's fully functional again.
(Even after an additional technical issue was discovered during diagnosis).

Richard you are the man!

Thank you again.

[IDBoating]

Add me to the list of broken pads. I'll be looking into this thread regularly.

I have been repairing these for people, and am willing to take a shot on yours if you'd like. PM me if you're interested.

[PaceWithGrace]

That's sobering. (WA - thanks for your efforts. I have been silently following this thread and you all deserve kudos.)

Does it not seem that Tige should step up and offer a proper solution? Here's hoping they do.

[Frosty_Power]

Add me to the list of broken pads. I'll be looking into this thread regularly.

[IDBoating]

Just keeping this thread current....

I had my first touchpad failure today. Or, more accurately, I made the conscious decision not to attempt a repair. That damnable flex circuit pigtail has eight conductors on it, of which six are active. On the touchpad I received today, fully five of those six are broken. I fixed one with three broken conductors yesterday, but the two extra on this one are buried deep in the flex circuitry and under the snap domes with no good access. It'd look like I went at it with a chainsaw just to get access, with no guarantee of success. So I'm walking away from this one.

Most of them can be fixed, but as we've now learned some are just too broken.

[Timmy!]

After seeing others' success, I decided to give it a shot. I soldered everything up tonight and will test it out in the morning. Wish me luck! If it doesn't work, WA will be getting a control module mailed to him.