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    Limp Mode?

    My '06 24Ve keeps going into limp mode and sounding an alarm. I have read that if there is a voltage difference between the two batteries, it will do this. I have also read that you can re-wire the ECM to only recognize the voltage from the cranking battery, so you will never have this happen again. (A big thanks to Mike Chpthril for all his help!)
    Has anyone ever done this re-wire and can you tell me how to do it?

    #2
    Ok...So I believe I have found the solution, thanks to Dom Forte! The power lead for the throttle position sensor is wired to the ignition switch or in some cases the back of a gauge. The ground is up on the ground bar behind the gauges in the top right corner. These two wires have to be traced back to the engine bay and the pink wire needs to be spliced directly into the ECM and the black ground should be grounded to the engine block. After tracking all this info down, I learned that the previous owner had already done this. So now I am really confused as to why the motor was going into limp mode. I am also getting a code 81 that points to the throttle position sensor. I am fast getting overwhelmed here. Does anyone have any words of wisdom or other sensors I should check or replace? Here is a picture of what I believe to be the re-wire and a picture of the throttle position sensor:tps re-wire.jpgtps sensor.jpg

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      #3
      Sorry...those pictures where tiny.
      tps re-wire.jpgtps sensor.jpg

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        #4
        Originally posted by efrickle View Post
        Ok...So I believe I have found the solution, thanks to Dom Forte! The power lead for the throttle position sensor is wired to the ignition switch or in some cases the back of a gauge. The ground is up on the ground bar behind the gauges in the top right corner. These two wires have to be traced back to the engine bay and the pink wire needs to be spliced directly into the ECM and the black ground should be grounded to the engine block. After tracking all this info down, I learned that the previous owner had already done this. So now I am really confused as to why the motor was going into limp mode. I am also getting a code 81 that points to the throttle position sensor. I am fast getting overwhelmed here. Does anyone have any words of wisdom or other sensors I should check or replace? Here is a picture of what I believe to be the re-wire and a picture of the throttle position sensor:[ATTACH]34878[/ATTACH][ATTACH]34879[/ATTACH]
        Awesome! Now you have eliminated the easy and most obvious cause. With a code 81, i am betting its just time for a TPS. Given the age, Im fairly confident.
        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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          #5
          Originally posted by chpthril View Post
          Awesome! Now you have eliminated the easy and most obvious cause. With a code 81, i am betting its just time for a TPS. Given the age, Im fairly confident.
          Thanks Mike! Any idea of who to buy it from? I can't seem to fids them online. It is a BEI 9861.

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            #6
            Thats a PPS sensor and most any dealer who stocks PCM parts should have them in stock , TPS sensors are on the throttlebody , when you get a new one be sure that the lever fastened to that sensor doesnt move while going in and out of gear.

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              #7
              Originally posted by dom w. forte View Post
              Thats a PPS sensor and most any dealer who stocks PCM parts should have them in stock , TPS sensors are on the throttlebody , when you get a new one be sure that the lever fastened to that sensor doesnt move while going in and out of gear.
              photo (2).jpgphoto.jpg

              Thanks Dom! Here are a couple more pictures of this PPS sensor. The lever is pressed on. Would there be any benefit to opening the case on this sensor and cleaning it out? Let me know if you find out what pins to test with a multimeter.

              Thanks again!

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                #8
                If you hold the sensor with the plug connector notch faceing up the 1st terminal on the left should read 5 .0 volts with the key on , the next wire will be PPS 1 and should range from about .9 to aprox , 4.8 volts through a sweep, the 4th wire from the left should read 5.0 vlts, the 5th wire is PPS 2 and read .9 to aprox 4.8 volts in a sweep of the lever , I dont remember which dirrection they will go but you will find out when you probe the wires, just make sure it is a clean sweep in the voltage count as it sweeps from high to low and no dips in the voltage as you sweep.
                In the second view of the sensor take a small screw driver and atempt to pull the sensor away from the plastic part where the gap is , it should seperate there, the part with the plug is the sensor , I believe the lever is made on the other half.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by dom w. forte View Post
                  If you hold the sensor with the plug connector notch faceing up the 1st terminal on the left should read 5 .0 volts with the key on , the next wire will be PPS 1 and should range from about .9 to aprox , 4.8 volts through a sweep, the 4th wire from the left should read 5.0 vlts, the 5th wire is PPS 2 and read .9 to aprox 4.8 volts in a sweep of the lever , I dont remember which dirrection they will go but you will find out when you probe the wires, just make sure it is a clean sweep in the voltage count as it sweeps from high to low and no dips in the voltage as you sweep.
                  In the second view of the sensor take a small screw driver and atempt to pull the sensor away from the plastic part where the gap is , it should seperate there, the part with the plug is the sensor , I believe the lever is made on the other half.
                  Thanks Dom! I tested the PPS sensor and it had a gradual sweep from close to open. Both terminals that should have had a 5.0 volt reading, did, but PP1 had 0.00 beginning voltage and the first time I tested, it went up to 4.5 volts, the second time it went to 4.87. PP2 also had a beginning voltage of 0.00 and went up to 4.87. Does this sound faulty?

                  I also had a friend help me by actuating the PPS while I looked at the Throttle body and it fluttered a little when the ignition was turned on, but didn't open and close as he actuated the throttle.
                  The ground buss at the Starboard, Stern over the taps pump was very corroded. I disconnected and cleaned that as well. We re-tested the PPS after cleaning these grounds with the same results: 0.00 - 4.87 volts.

                  Another question that could be related: When I have the batter cut-off switch off and the key in the off position, I still have power to things like the blower, taps pump, lights, etc. Is that normal?

                  Another question that could be related (I wish I could slap the people that owned this boat before me!) In the pictures below, there are a black and blue wire coming off the speedometer that appear to have once been connect to something. I see no corresponding wires to places to connect. The first pictures shows the black and blue wires on the right hand side coming off the back of the speedo. The second picture shows the ends. Any ideas. I am just looking for anything out of place or disconnected at this point!
                  wires off spedo.jpgwires off spedo 2.jpg

                  Comment


                    #10
                    The start and stop voltages of both readings should be close to the same , so 0.00 is a bad reading, as to your other idoms being powered up is normal, and your 2 wires under the dash, the boats came with lots of options there are many extra wires in various places that are not hooked up , if all is working would suspect these to be extras.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by dom w. forte View Post
                      The start and stop voltages of both readings should be close to the same , so 0.00 is a bad reading, as to your other idoms being powered up is normal, and your 2 wires under the dash, the boats came with lots of options there are many extra wires in various places that are not hooked up , if all is working would suspect these to be extras.
                      Alright....PPS back in. The engine starts, but will not throttle up. It is still in limp mode and the tachometer is still not working. Does the tach the rpm info from a crank position sensor or the distributor? Is there a fuse that could be burnt? Any other thoughts on the what could be causing this issue? I was thinking of taking the boat to a mechanic tomorrow and having him read the code again and see if it has changed. What do you think is the best plan? Thanks!

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                        #12
                        Did you take any readings from the PPS while running to see if it is commanding accelleration , and yes get it scanned again and get the full report on the code.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by dom w. forte View Post
                          Did you take any readings from the PPS while running to see if it is commanding accelleration , and yes get it scanned again and get the full report on the code.
                          I couldn't get to the sensor with a meter, once it was back in the bracket and in the side of the boat. It was commanding the open and close of the throttle body when the ignition was on, without the motor running and the the throttle was not opening. I am trying to find someone in my area that at least knows marine power engines. Any thoughts on the tachometer suddenly not working at the same moment the boat when into limp mode?
                          Thanks!!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by dom w. forte View Post
                            Did you take any readings from the PPS while running to see if it is commanding accelleration , and yes get it scanned again and get the full report on the code.
                            Thanks again Dom! When I follow your instructions of pushing the throttle lever forward and then starting the engine; what is the next step? If it throttles up, do I not need a PPS sensor? I had to work all day, so I didn't get a chance to have a shop read the code. I will try and do this tomorrow.

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                              #15
                              Ok....I started the engine with the throttle "open" past idle. It did rev up slightly before dropping back down to idle. The alarm also stopped for a half second until it went back to idle. The tachometer also started working again, well it was more of an intermittent working. So, my feeble brain is telling me that this is really pointing to the PPS being bad and not giving a base reading or voltage. Is that your opinion?

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