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Village Idiot

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    Village Idiot

    Hello everyone...again. I must be the most uneducated boat person onthis site. Anyway, I took my boat out for the first time this last weekend and everything went well, except for the fact that every time I hit my taps buttonI get a popping sound though my speakers. I have tried grounding to different positions including directly to the battery as well as powering directly to the battery. When I had the stereo powered directly from the battery and key was in the off position, I touched the tapps button and it still made the same sound even with the key in the off position. Any thoughts?? Any help is always appreciated.

    #2
    How are the amps wired?

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      #3
      Village Idiot

      thetekgeek wired them for me and I beleive they are direct to the battery with some RCA connections to the deck.

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        #4
        Is this a new occurrence? Was the stereo installed in the off season? Since this was your 1st trip out for the season, I would check the condition of both batteries.

        Instead of running the head-unit directly to a battery, run the yellow B+ and black GND wires do the power cable lugs on the larger of your amps. This insures that the entire stereo system is sharing the same source.

        You may need to wire a capacitor across the TAPS motor wiring as well.
        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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          #5
          Village Idiot

          Yes the stereo was installed in the offseason. I actually only have one battery but have been considering adding a second. I will try taking he power from the amps to see if that will work. Excuse my ignorance, but what is a capacitor? Thanks

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            #6
            Just a thought, but is your taps operating properly? My tab would only go down and not up and I was getting a clicking interference in my stereo when I would push the rocker switch. Turned out after jumping the wires in a few spots my Taps relay (Control Module) was bad. I have a replacement on order. The part number is E1016

            The guys at Bennet said the relays from Tige have some type of suppression in them to keep the voltage from the taps system from interfering with other components. Not sure if it is going to fix the stereo interference or not. I did notice I wasn't getting the click in the stereo when I jumped the wires. Either way I hope it clears up my taps issue and if it fixes the stereo that is an added bonus. I will let you know if it clears the click in the stereo up once I get it installed.

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              #7
              so do i run the red power, yellow and ground to the power and ground on the big amp or just the yellow and ground??

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                #8
                My TAPS seems to function normally both up and down. And I only get the clicking sound when i depress or let up on the taps button. If i hold it down it does not pop again until i let off??

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                  #9
                  I just tried moving the power and grounds to the amp and it still pops???? Should I add a second battery and if so, is there a way to hook it up so that the alternator will carge it while on the water?

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                    #10
                    A Capacitor is an electrical storage device. When wired across the TAPS or other circuit, it will absorb that "pop". The pop is normal, and is there in most circuits, but not normally heard. But, you are hearing it in your audio system. The pop is nothing more then the collapse of an electrical field when a relay coil is de energized.

                    1st, I would make sure that the amp(s) is connected directly to both the battery's + and - posts and not connected to one of the boats BUSS bars.

                    Next, the head-unit's yellow B+ wire and black GND wire should be connected to the power cable terminals on your largest amp.

                    If this doesnt cure the pops, then its time to wire a cap across the offending circuit.
                    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                      #11
                      Not to hijack the thread, but if you were to install a capacitor. Would installing them to the Amplifiers cure the problems or do you need to install one on the device that is causing the interference? I am hoping this new taps relay will cure my problem like j5d6 is having, but if not this may be something I need to look into as well.

                      Or just adding a noise filter to the Pre Amp outs?
                      Last edited by hossdog; 04-03-2012, 06:10 PM.

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                        #12
                        So found this link. Where the capacitors are explained. IF the new relay doesn't fix my click I think this would be the next step.

                        http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12761

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                          #13
                          The pop being discussed here is a little different animal then white noise. In most cases, nose can be cured without the use of filters and GLI's (ground loop isolators).

                          The fore mentioned capacitor is far different then a stiffening CAP used in line on the amp's power cable. Similar theory, but different application.
                          Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                            #14
                            Thank you. After reading the other thread I linked to and doing some research it all makes more sense now. Some times I feel like I am walking in the dark without a flashlight. Thank goodness for these forums! BTW I got that windscreen installed and it came out great. I had to cut a little less than an 8th inch off one side to make it fit, but it came out just right. Thanks again.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by hossdog View Post
                              Thank you. After reading the other thread I linked to and doing some research it all makes more sense now. Some times I feel like I am walking in the dark without a flashlight. Thank goodness for these forums! BTW I got that windscreen installed and it came out great. I had to cut a little less than an 8th inch off one side to make it fit, but it came out just right. Thanks again.
                              I know what you mean about the windscreen. I installed one on a 21I and found the walk-through to not be asymmetrical when i slid the lexan in. I plumbed the walk way and found that the center of the top was not the center at the bottom. I then put an angle gauge on the walls and you could see the difference.
                              Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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