Help on control module

[diggerglp]

Just bought this 2000 21V. Have gone through the electrical replacing bilge, blower, new stereo and a couple lights, everything works fine. I wanted to have the engine serviced so took it to the local Tige dealer(small timer) and they go through everything to make sure it works. They call and say I have no power to anything from the dash - nothing works and say they have it isolated to the 2 modules on the dash where you turn the various components on/off. Now I am really upset as it all worked before they started on it and now the good part. If it is in fact these module units, they said it was $695 for a new one but Tige doesn't make them any more so to get a replacement, they have to run a special assembly to make this unit and there is no time frame on it 3 - 6 weeks or longer.
I am going to check for a loose connection when I get the boat home this PM but if I can't find anything, what are my options? Any big dealers out there that might have this part? Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Frustrated in MN

[laserfish]

I would be more than frustrated. Almost sounds like one of the wires did not get reconnected to the battery. Hope it is something simple like that.

[skippabcool]

Hopefully you find that it was something loose. Sometimes it is coincidental but not always. From your response it sounds like Tige made these units? If not and you do have to replace them it may be worth looking at going to the manufacturer of the module. I had a similar thing and it was double the cost to go through the dealer to get the part.

The other option might be to upgrade the unit to something that is current. It might be easier to work with in the future. Can you post pictures of the modules that they say are bad?

[chpthril]

I have a feeling I know what you are talking about. Its the two breaker/BUSS assemblies on the helm, and yes, they are no longer in production if I remember correctly what Lee told me a couple years ago. But, there is a retrofit for them, but i cant remember anything specific. Not saying your dealer did or did not do anything to cause this, but these do seem to have a life expectancy of about 5-10 years, so it could have just been a coincidence.

I would call Lee @ Tige directly. He will tell the best options out there and if they have the retro, he can give you the part # for for your dealer to order.

[diggerglp]

Do I just call Tige and ask for Lee? Or does he have a separate number or email I can contact him at. Was checking wiring this morning and now it my be the black board (about 4" x 6" x 1/2")that is screwed to the back of the wiring area. It has a connection for + and - directly from the battery at each end, 9 orange wires coming out of it and a jumper from the dash of the 2 modules that feed the on/off buttons. I have power to it but no power coming out that feeds the other components. So it may be that. May just wire the various accessories direct with some type of switch but would like to talk to Lee like you suggested.
Thanks for all your help.
Garry

[laserfish]

Just call Tige and ask for Lee. If he is not there, he always returns calls.

[Thomas Hohl]

You should try and take them apart. I always try and take "black boxes" apart and I work on machines all the time. It's probably simple corrosion on the contacts.

Look at it this way. Someone had to put it together, so it has to come apart.

Might just save yourself $600 bucks.

[diggerglp]

Electrical Power Solution

I called Lee like you guys said and he was very helpful but like he offered, there is no solution to replacing the "dead" modules, only fix is waiting 6-8 weeks for Tige to run you a replacement that you have to modify your dash for it to fit in to. So I went to my local Marine audio guy who rewired the accessories directly, put in some new switches and now it works great and looks good too. Plus saved me several hundred dollars. I would suggest anyone else that has this problem to consider doing the same thing.
Now, one last question on the Metcraft tower. What is the reason for the padding around the supports? None of the new towers has this. Not really needed for anything is it?
Thanks again for everyone's help. I really enjoy reading the comments and solutions for problems on this site. It is a great source for us rookies.

[laserfish]

I think the padding was strictly for looks. After 10 years, no one has hit their head and said they were glad it was padded. Could happen though...We need pics of the solution please. I know I am on borrowed time with mine.

[diggerglp]

Electrical solution

I'll take some pics and get them out tomorrow.

[laserfish]

Hey Digger, where are those pictures! Remember on this forum, without pics it never happened. Anxious to see your solution.

[diggerglp]

Pics on new control switches

Here are some pics of the switches that we changed out. Everything still goes through the resets and fuses so only real change is the new switches which also light up when on. Everything works good after bypassing the module and this was probably $500 cheaper than getting the new control module from Tige and waiting 6-8 weeks or longer and then having to redo the dash to accomodate the new switches.
And yes they spelled Bilge wrong but I can live with it.

[laserfish]

Nice, thanks for the idea for all of us 21 owners that will be doing this sometime in the future. Are those push button or rocker switches?

[diggerglp]

Rocker switches that light up when on.

[diggerglp]

Laser
What prop you running on your boat? I have the Acme 537 (new) and I think it was hitting the rev limiter at WOT. Also had a high pitched buzzer that kept coming on yesterdayand then would go off. Didn't notice any unusual stuff like being hot, low oil, etc. Any idea what it is or for?