Low Voltage Warning

[MRMoffat1]

Have 1 starting batt and 2 deep cycles, EIDB system (one deep cycle installed over the winter by the service dept).

At the lake Memorial Weekend, idling when a "beep" went off and the engine shut down. Started the engine back up checked all guages: the only abnormal reading was the voltage.

1. At idle, the voltage will decay slowly to below 12, then beep is heard and engine will shut down.
2. At RPMs above 1000, the voltage reading will get above 12, but not above 13.
3. I could start the engine at any time no problem.

Did some minor troubleshooting while there:

Took boat out of water, charged the batteries with onobard charger, went back out, same thing.

Disconnected the 2nd deep cycle, same thing, no difference.

Alternator? Starting Battery (2006)?

[zad0030]

Sounds like the alternator to me...

[River Runner]

Sounds like the alternator to me...

Dittos

[dogbert]

Sounds like the alternator to me too, but if you haven't ever replaced your starting battery, I'd start with that. A bad battery can make your boat die too.

[chpthril]

I'd start with verifing the installation of the 2nd deepcycle was done correctly and at the same time, you can check the charging output of the Alt. This requires a $25 dollar DVOM from Radio shack and 10 mins of you time. Cheaper and faster then the shotgun approach.........pull the trigger and replace everything in the spray pattern

Clip the Meter's ground to the engine block, prferably where the grounds are located on the bellhousing bolt. Now touch each of the battery's +'s. If you dont get a reading, the ground is more then likely not attached. Next, fire up and check the charge at the back of the alt on the large red wire (probably 4ga). Next, check again on the center post of the Isolator and also the 2 outside posts of the Iso. next, go the each of the battery +'s. If they all show alt output, then that part is correct. Odd are, the install is miswired.

[dogbert]

I'd start with verifing the installation of the 2nd deepcycle was done correctly and at the same time, you can check the charging output of the Alt. This requires a $25 dollar DVOM from Radio shack and 10 mins of you time. Cheaper and faster then the shotgun approach.........pull the trigger and replace everything in the spray pattern

I was merely suggesting he get his batteries tested...easy to do and free at places like Autozone.

[Timmy!]

Just had this happen last weekend on my buddy's brand new 22Ve. It turns out that the service dept accidentally hooked both wires from the isolator to the accessory battery. We had someone with an vom meter and tested that the alternator was charging to both points at the isolator and that it was getting charging voltage at the battery - unfortunately we only tested on the accessory battery and forgot to check the cranking battery! DOH!

Check to make sure that you don't have both wires from the isolator going to one battery (or have your service dept do it).

[MRMoffat1]

Thanks everyone. Will troublshoot further before punting and taking into shop.

Chp - can you republish your battery wiring diagram for the 2006 EIDB - with the third deep cycle hooked up? Can't find. Thanks.

[MRMoffat1]

Found it - never mind.

[chpthril]

I was merely suggesting he get his batteries tested...easy to do and free at places like Autozone.

Just messin wich ya I actually agree with you, the batterys should be tested even if he finds something else as the root cause. I've longed preached, if you get 3 years out of a battery, you got your moneys worth........anything longer is barrowed time. Doesnt mean that everyone should replace a 3 yr old battery, just dont think too hard about when a 5 yr battery goes dead after 3, replace it and rock on.

Found it - never mind.

Good, let me know if you got any questions on it!

[MRMoffat1]

Just messin wich ya I actually agree with you, the batterys should be tested even if he finds something else as the root cause. I've longed preached, if you get 3 years out of a battery, you got your moneys worth........anything longer is barrowed time. Doesnt mean that everyone should replace a 3 yr old battery, just dont think too hard about when a 5 yr battery goes dead after 3, replace it and rock on.



Good, let me know if you got any questions on it!

Ok, replaced the starter battery today just for the heck of it - the old one was the original (I agree with anyone who said the problem is not the starter battery though). Inspected all battery wiring and everything seemed to be good - but did not take any measurements to verify. Tomorrow to the lake to take some voltage measurements.

[MRMoffat1]

Measurements today (reference to Engine Mount Gnd):

Engine Off:
A/B = 0V
C/D = 12.72 V
E/F = 12.82 V
G = 0V

Engine Idle:
A/B = 14.7/14.66 V decay slowly to 13.8 over maybe 10-15 min
C/D = 13.84/13.83 V decay to 13.1
E/F = 13.87/13.87 V decay to 13.2
G = 12.8 V decay to 12.1 (visual only)

Bumping the RPMs in neutral to >1000RPM, the Alt bumped up from 13.8 to 14.5V and all points rose in voltage an equal amount

The Isolator followed the Alt Voltage at about a .8 V drop. The voltmeter seemed to be about 1V below the isolator voltage at all times (Voltmeter never got above 13V which seems strange since I know the voltmeter has been above 13-13.5 V normally). [Side note: If anyone owned a 1999 2100V, you know you had to "pulse" the RPMs a little after starting the engine to get the Alternator to "stick" above 13V, but not on these 22Ves.]

At about time=10 to 15 min into idle, when Voltmeter had decayed to around 12.1V and respectively Alternator to 13.8V, the constant "beep" went off continually. The engine kept idle this time.

Turned off, turned engine back on, and idled fine, beep stopped, volt meter 12.8 to 13V.

Idled out past the dock and did not get too far and the beep went off as the voltage dropped again. Cycled thru the turn engine on/off to get back to dock and go home. Beeped again as I pulled up to dock.

Ideas? Alternator?

[dogbert]

Just a thought. Are you absolutely sure that all your ground connections are correct (including the battery ground to the engine block)? While not related, I ran into a situation last year with a septic pump. When we check the voltage coming from the power pole it metered out at the correct voltage, however whenever the float switch activated the pump, voltage would drop significantly (i.e., dropped under significant amperage load). Could that be what's happening here? It could even be a bad ground issue somewhere completely different in your wiring harness. You may want to just check all the connections to make sure there's not a marginal ground connection in there somewhere.

I had a question on the isolator for some of the other guys. Should the starting battery be on a separate ground to the engine block or should it really be grounded on the same ground loop as the deep cycle? chpthril, anyone?

[MRMoffat1]

Just a thought. Are you absolutely sure that all your ground connections are correct (including the battery ground to the engine block)? While not related, I ran into a situation last year with a septic pump. When we check the voltage coming from the power pole it metered out at the correct voltage, however whenever the float switch activated the pump, voltage would drop significantly (i.e., dropped under significant amperage load). Could that be what's happening here? It could even be a bad ground issue somewhere completely different in your wiring harness. You may want to just check all the connections to make sure there's not a marginal ground connection in there somewhere.

I had a question on the isolator for some of the other guys. Should the starting battery be on a separate ground to the engine block or should it really be grounded on the same ground loop as the deep cycle? chpthril, anyone?

I am not absolutely sure on the starting battery ground to the block! Will double check. I have two black wires from the neg terminal of the Starting battery. Large one goes somewhere - follows the red wire to the starter as I am remembering - will check on connection. The other is attached to the deep cycle neg terminal. It's really not sounding like an alt or isloator problem....

[dogbert]

It's really not sounding like an alt or isloator problem....

Nope, sounds a lot like a grounding problem. Remember, electricity needs both to flow...not enough capacity on either positive or negative leads to flow issues, especially under load.