So I'm a Stereo Idiot

[chpthril]

ok, I'll bite, what do you have available in the "used stereo parts" market? I think I'm going to go with the 5 channel amp (probably something like the MX700.5) and 4 new 6.5" speakers (my old ones are toast). Probably will want a new HU as well but it will have to be one that goes in a normal size slot, and with USB hook-up for iPod.

I actually have nothing used really at all right now. Sorry

[Tanner]

I will also add that there seems to be a pretty strong used stereo parts market.

Yeah, and apparently I added to it!

Try craigslist and ebay if your wanting used. Just be careful you don't get something that's DOA or not as described. Use a card to pay for it, so that your protected somewhat.

[GATigeguy]

I think I'm ready to pull the trigger on 4 KM620s and a MX700.5 with sub to be decided later. Still not sure on the HU, but that will be easier to figure while I''m waiting for the speakers to get here.
Does anyone have a "simple" diagram that describes how I should wire everything including wire sizes, fuses, etc? Basically I will need to get everything as if I was starting from scratch.

[chpthril]

I think I'm ready to pull the trigger on 4 KM620s and a MX700.5 with sub to be decided later. Still not sure on the HU, but that will be easier to figure while I''m waiting for the speakers to get here.
Does anyone have a "simple" diagram that describes how I should wire everything including wire sizes, fuses, etc? Basically I will need to get everything as if I was starting from scratch.

Check out Sony's head units! Front load MP3, USB, Remotes, Sat, etc.

For the MX700.5 you will need 4ga power/grnd wire and a 100A circuit breaker. 4ga runs about $1.50 a ft. If it were me, I would go with 1/0ga (only $1.80 ft) and a couple of non-fused distribution blocks and then you are all set in the power department when it's time to upgrade with another amp and tower speakers. Also kinda depends on how far away the battery is, or will be located if you are planning on adding a 2nd, if you currently dont have one.

*1/0ga power wire x "X"ft
*1/0ga grnd wire x "X"ft. These need to run to the same battery.
*100A Manual reset marine rated circuit breaker
*(2) 1x1/0ga in x 2x4ga out non-fused dist blocks.
*(1) 2 chnl RCA's (only as long as needed to run from head unit to amp.
*12ga blk wire - Head unit's ground run to amp's ground lug.
*12Ga yellow wire - Head unit's power/memory run to amp's power lug.
*14ga red wire - Head units remote turn-on run to rocker switch on dash (most popular way)
*14ga blue or grn wire - Amp's remote turn-on from head unit.
*14ga speaker wire - If I remember correctly, the KM's come with a nice bundle of clear w/blue tracer wire, but not sure if it will be long enough to make it around the boat from the starboard side main cabin speaker. If not, dont splice, just run a complete wire as every splice is a point for a moisture and corrosion unless you use the gel filled heat shrink.
*(4) 5/16" ring terminal battery cable lugs for the power and ground. You will need this size for the breaker, but check your battery studs. Most are 5/16" but they do come in 3/8" I like to put a piece of heat shrink on the terminal ends after I solder the end on the wire. 1" works for the 1/0ga wire. I have some that I could just toss in with the rest of your order J/K.

That about covers it - Someone read over and see if we left anything out and please add to it with other ideas. There are lots of correct ways to do a stereo but only a few wrongs ways.

[GATigeguy]

Mike, PM sent

[AdaminMN]

Here's my opinion...Take it for a grain of salt, I won't be offended.
The way I figured it is this, the head unit is the brain of the system, and it needs to do what you want it to do now, and in the future. Also, it is the only piece where you need to cut a visible hole(s) in your boat, if ones not there already.

The current setup I'm installing is a Kenwood KTS-MP400M HU, wired remote, four Polk speakers, and one Kicker 10" sub and amp.

My budget was limited. I picked the HU first, it can drive all the amps I could ever need, can take two wired remotes, and run a CD changer/iPod, and was a resonable price. I installed that, found out three of the four speakers in the boat were completely toast and sounded like $#!%, tried some new Pyle speakers I had for our camper...Not much better. Ordered new Polk 6.5" speakers and decided to buy a sub and amp at the same time. I got the Polks, amp, and Kicker sub off Ebay. Everything was under $500, list price on everything was just under $1100. I have the ability to add another remote and amps later for the four corner speakers when the budget allows.

The system is not as nice as I would like, but I've only had the boat for less than a month and I still need more goodies. IMO getting the wire sizing down for the amps was the hardest thing for me to figure out. I'll be using #4 for the sub amp, #12 for the HU power (red, yellow, and black), 14 AWG for the four speakers, and 12 AWG for the sub.

Rambling again. I do it well. Especially after a few cocktails.