Xpjim1's Stereo Thread

[talltigeguy]

Gain Setting Help
Here is my set up

I am planning on using a voltmeter if I can find mine from years ago

I go from out put on HU to a splitter to 10 foot rca cables to LC1 then 10 foot cables to another splitter and then to amp. When setting my gains they are pretty high. After reading billspins stereo post he had installed a line driver. I have a clarion xmd3, which I here puts out pretty low voltage.
I am planning on putting the line driver after the LC1's.
Question
1) when setting the gains should I have the LC1's wide open?
2) The LD directions say to set the amp gains all the way down and use the gains on the LD. If not enough only then use the gain on the amps. I have also heard set the gains on the LD to the mid and then use the amp gain. Any way more preferable?
Amps accept up to 8v and LD max output is 8v
Thanks

So you chose some other line driver than a WS420? Which one did you get? How will you mount it?

One of the great things about the WS unit is that I can skip my LC1's altogether now. They will be some neat looking non-functioning knobs on the dash when I get her all done.

When setting the LD, I would for sure put the LC1's all the way up.

[xpjim1]

So you chose some other line driver than a WS420? Which one did you get? How will you mount it?

One of the great things about the WS unit is that I can skip my LC1's altogether now. They will be some neat looking non-functioning knobs on the dash when I get her all done.

When setting the LD, I would for sure put the LC1's all the way up.

A friend of mine gave me a Phoenix Gold TLD 66 Line Driver from his old boat. I have had it a while but never even thought of using it with the old stuff. I am just truly beginning to use the LC1's as I have a working sub now. I debated on the WS 420 but i have gone all these years without a microphone so at this time I am going to give the Line Driver a shot as there is no financial outlay.

I plan on mounting it inder the dash on the same wall as the sub and going from LC1 output into the line driver then line driver to the amp.

[talltigeguy]

That makes sense to just mount it to the wall because you will not need access to it. I need access to the WS so that I can fade the tower and boat speakers, unless I put it in and just use it as a line driver and a microphone and keep my LC1's in place...Hmmm interesting thought there. It just seems like I am adding extra weak links in a chain if I do that. But then it would not matter where I mount it and I can still put the mic up high. If I mounted it up and away, then I would not have access to do quick EQ changes either. Certainly seems like I really need to play with it.

I have never seen anyone who thought that a properly installed line driver did not improve their system. A free one is good too.

[xpjim1]

Ok, finally got the boat on the water this weekend. Never installed the line driver but had the new amps and speakers dialed in. I still thought they should be louder but the daughter said they were plenty loud in the driveway. Got the boat running and started to crank the tunes and the Wetsounds could barely be heard and the old clarions and new sub were lacking. Amps never went into protect mode. Any suggestions as I need and expect some volume.

[dogbert]

Are you sure your 4 Wetsounds are connected in parallel and not serial?

[Jason B]

Are the gains turned to 0?
Mine weren't quite as loud as I had expected either for what it's worth. I am on about 1/2 with the gains and don't really wanna make problems turning them up too far. I do have volume though, so I won't complain too much

Let us know when you figure it out.

[wetsounds1]

What amps are ya'll running? XPjim1 and Jason?

I looked at the threads. I think Jim you are running a Cadence FXA5100.

What is this running?

Jason, you have a TXA6004? What is this running?

The only Cadence amps we have used or recommend is the ZRS series so I am not real familiar with what type of real power these models do.

But I am sure we can make sure they are hooked up correct and gains and settings set up.

Tim
Wet Sounds

[xpjim1]

I am running a ZRS 1502 for the tower. A set of pro 60's and a set of MB-8's running in parallel. For the interior and the sub I am running the FXA 5100.

Gain on the 1502 is just above 1/2. The ZRS gain is labeled incorrectly. Min is really the max. I belive this was the reason I blew an external fuse when I was setting gains with the voltmeter.

I had a full boat with my family reunion so we just listened to music when we were floating and I did not mess with it much. Wil look at again this weekend I hope

[wetsounds1]

You should be good on the tower. Might take some playing around with. I have found that it is really hard to tune a boat unless it is in the water. So might take some time on the water playing with it.

[Jason B]

I have the FXA5100+ running the 6 interior 650s (2 in bow on own seperate channels, 4 in cabin linked into last 2 channels @ 2ohms). The TXA600 has just the Pro80s on 2 channels and Gyver suggested I leave the other empty for "growth opportunity." (btw: I like the way he thinks )
I have the gains at roughly 1/2 or straight across and the crossover as near to 100 as I think is correct; it's kinda tough to see the markings on a couple of the crossover knobs.
It sounds incredibly clear on the water and in the garage. You're right that it sounds better on the water. I just kinda-sorta expected it would be a little bit more obnoxious than it is, but it ain't no sissy stereo either, so I really can't complain. Quality is more important to me as I get older and it's top-notch in that dept.

[Jason B]

xpjim1,
I thought you were running (or maybe going to run??) a TXA6004?

[xpjim1]

Forgot to post. Last weekend checked all the connections. Some items definately not the way the amp installer and I had set up. Reconnected everything, Braced a few connections and MUSIC.

We had a weekend of music with no issues. I still think they should be louder and have a question in to Cadence on the 5 channel amp but we were Rockin!!!!!!!!!!! finally

[xpjim1]

At least I know what career I will not be going into when my current one ends

[da.bell]

Sounds like you are "stereo installation challenged" like I am.

[unique]

Question for you.... When you screwed the sub to the baffle by your feet did the screws also screw into the box behind the baffle in the storage compartment? Also what did you do to secure the box to the back side of the baffle?

Well since we had quite the rain and thunderstorms in Lake Havasu this weekend, I decided to install the new Wetsounds XS 12 sub to replace the non functioning clarion. Whoever installed the Clarion really butchered the hole as only 4 of the 8 mounting screws were hitting fiberglass. Phil and Chpthril gave good ideas of how to enlarge the existing hole. Since I do not own a router or a rotozip I opted for a really old gigantic saber/jig saw. If you ever do this do not cut the hole in the sub box first. I had no choice as it was a kids woodshop project and I was close. I took the template and drew the new circle getting as close to where the bottom needed to be due to the sub box. I tried to eliminate the step of cutting the existing carpet off but when I was cutting the carpet fuzz did not allow you to see the line. Got out the razor knife and cut the carpet out. Using the jig saw I made a beautiful circle. When I tried the sub it was too small . I then tried using the jig saw but I kept busting blades because not enough room to turn. Off to Sears to use the Xmas gift certificates and got a rotozip. Be careful as the cutting tool really cuts fast. I got the hole enlarged so the sub would fit. Now as Talltigeguy stated kind of dificult with one person to get the sub box against the wall. My luck was running good as my daughter arrived from LA just in time. She crawled into the compartment and held the box into place as I placed the sub in the hole. We were a little off as the sub box was too low. Found some old packing foam from one of the surfboards and cut a 3/8 inch strip. Under the front of the sub box it went and perfect fit. Screwed a screw thru the fiberglass and into the box to hold it into place. 8 mounting screws into the sub. another few from the wall into the box and done.

I only had 16 gauge wire handy so that is what I used. Amps is not adjust yet but I can honestly say IT ROCKS!!!