Stereo install woes

[dogbert]

Thanks alot to all you guys. I'll get this rewired later this week and let you know how it goes. Hopefully it'll be as kicken as its supposed to be.

Let us know how it goes and just keep in mind, whatever it is, it can be fixed

[spharis]

Use 14; it will be fine, and 10 would do worse than better.

[jleger98]

Thanks alot to all you guys. I'll get this rewired later this week and let you know how it goes. Hopefully it'll be as kicken as its supposed to be.

[jleger98]

Its about a 5 foot run from the batts to the HU. the batts are port side, the HU is SB side, right across from each other. The boat is 99" wide at the widest. I only say 14 cause thats what I have, but I can use 10, I have some of that as well.

[philwsailz]

So if I've followed all this correctly, I should rewire this as shown below, right?
Using 4g wire direct to the amps, and regular (14g) to the HU and remotes, right?

Good enough; that looks reasonable.

Just of you want to follow my advice, please fuse the amps with the apporpriate values shared earlier.

You could get away with wire smaller for 14AWG for non-power wiring, (i.e the remote turn on) but you have it anyway, right?
Go man go!

I am editing, and agree with Steven, big wire for the head unit power is appropriate if you have a long pull to the radio for its power. Sounds like you are considering it for the ground anyway, if you decide to ground to the amp's ground.

[spharis]

Only use 14AWG if the HU is in the glove box near the batteries, otherwise use 12AWG going across the boat, and 10AWG if going to the bow or stern then to the driver panel. On the 400.1 (??? is that right), you can get by with 8AWG on a run under 10ft; actually you could use 8AWG for both.

Rest of that gets a thumbsup.

[jleger98]

So if I've followed all this correctly, I should rewire this as shown below, right?
Using 4g wire direct to the amps, and regular (14g) to the HU and remotes, right?

[philwsailz]

"ground is ground is ground"

Wow, did you intentionally try to quote me out of context?

Just kidding. Seriously, just kidding

My point was to ask that nobody argue "ground is ground is ground", at least not in this instance. We can take advantage of the filtering that exists right there.

I agree with crossing at 90 as well. When not feasible or practical, running down opposite sides of the "vehicle" helps as well.

So if I were to elaborate and concur with you, if power HAS to cross signal, do so, or try to do so at 90 deg.
Avoid paralell runs of signal wire next to power wire, (or most any other wire for that matter).
In every instance try to remove the signal wire as far away from ANY other wire, unless by chance it is another signal wire, (like most RCA cables)

[dogbert]

Not in a boat!! Grounding at the amp makes perfect sense.

I agree...you need to make sure your ground for your H/U is the exact same as the one for your amp or you will see voltage build-up between the two on the RCA lines.

[spharis]

Any of you all, again, I know it sounds goofy, but before trying to justify or argue "ground is ground is ground" try it.

Not in a boat!! Grounding at the amp makes perfect sense.

[dogbert]

Some more suggestions:

1. Get a noise filter between your head unit and your amps, it will eliminate popping and whining (from your ignition).

2. Keep in mind that your ACC switch is also wired to the ignition and therefore will shut off while you're starting your boat. Again, the noise filter will fix any interference from this source.

3. You can't go wrong with heavier guage wire for power and ground. Better safe than sorry. Also, if you get braided wire, you get better shielding (yes, it affects power/ground and not just speaker wires).

[spharis]

You will pick up noise. It is a paramagnetic effect. All electrical current gives off a field or interference as current travels through it. You want to minimize the amount of interference in the line. Two things will help, keeping the point of x-over as small as possible, and making the x-over point so that a maximum amount of cancellation can occur. By hitting it at a 90, the x-over point is very small, and the possibility of cancellation is at its greatest.

[chpthril]

What if they run parallel to each other?

"noise" will run in if bundled/run together.

[jleger98]

5. Try to be sure if you have to cross your signal leads with power leads, you do so at 90's. This will prevent most interference.

What if they run parallel to each other?

[philwsailz]

Also, as suggested somewhere in this post ground your head unit back to the battery, that is another source of interference. Good luck.

Good suggestion, but I have a slightly better one. Ground the head unit literally right at the ground connection of the amp.

I know it makes no sense, as we can all seem to understand that ground is ground, and that it should not matter, as it is all connected/bonded together.

BUT with another marine manufacturer I work with, we have been fighting popping issues when accessory items were turned on and off. Grounding the head unit at the amp takes advantage of the huge power supply filtering that exists just inside the amp, and this solution provided the quietest isolation of the head unit's power from the rest of the boat's electrical system.

I know, it sounds goofy, but I would suggest that if anyone else has popping from courtesy lights, bilge pump / ballast pump switches, try it. It should provide a quieter system.

Any of you all, again, I know it sounds goofy, but before trying to justify or argue "ground is ground is ground" try it. I think more folks will be surprised than not.