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I dunno!I got the HP4800 & HP2400 both for $212 shipped!
MSRP was about $560 plus shipping for both. Don't you dare tell me you got the RF's even close to that!
Hey that KnuKonceptz has some pretty good prices on wires and cable don't they!
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I got them on ebay.....I bet I have less in them than you have on the Orions.....I'm a tight ***!
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It's gonna rock SP! I wanted the RF amps as well but settles on the Orions due to price. I'm doing so much to the boat this year i had to keep it low as possible.
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UPDATE:
Purchased the rest of my stereo today. So it'll have:
Rockford Marine RFX9220M source unit (installed)
Rockford Marine RFXMR1 transom remote (installed)
Rockford Marine M110S4 10" sub (installed)
Rockford Marine M162S comps (4)(installed)
Skylon fiberglass Phantom69 tower system (all but wired)
RF P450.4 (55 to each comp; 225 to the sub)
RF 325.2 (~80 to each 6x9)
Orbital Marine Deep Cycle (picked it up local)
Stinger battery combiner (140A)
Wiring from ebay dealer Knu Concepts
Hopefully it will all show up by this weekend so I can get it installed and hit the water Monday.Last edited by spharis; 04-02-2007, 12:29 AM.
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Thanks alot!
Now every time I get on the platform ill be afraid of getting a splinter in Mr. Happy.
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Originally posted by NICKYPOO View PostMy general rule of thumb is that I should be able to drag my pecker across any piece of that platform with zero fear of getting a splinter in it. This frame of mind will pretty much ensure you have it completely sanded.
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Originally posted by NICKYPOO View PostMy general rule of thumb is that I should be able to drag my pecker across any piece of that platform with zero fear of getting a splinter in it. This frame of mind will pretty much ensure you have it completely sanded.Nice write-up!
Kind of reminds me of how Kirk cleans his seats!
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Originally posted by Domsz06 View PostI don't think mine is sealed. So Just some sanding, with say 800 grit? then come back and buff it? and oil? i have the oil and cleaner stuff.
Here's what I did:
Prep- You can use all the chemical you want, but your going to end up sanding either way. You might as well just sand as opposed to dealing with all the chemicals. A nice pad sander will go a long way. This one is nice but I'm sure you can find one cheaper. http://www.toolking.com/productinfo....DeWalt_D26451K. Get yourself a box (at least 20) of 100 grit paper and go to town. LET THE PAPER DO THE WORK! Teak is very soft and builds up extremely fast on the paper. Once it builds up, you will end up polishing the wood to the point it wont want to accept the oil. Besides the fact it will take you forever to move anything off the surface with a loaded up piece of paper. Paper is cheap. Keep it fresh and it will keep you fresh. I use one piece of paper per 1/2 board on one side. Once each section is done, slap a new piece of paper on and give it a quick once over and move on to the next 1/2 board. Sand everything you can with the sander. The surface, the bottom, the sides, front, and back. Everywhere you can get that pad to touch. Roll it over the edges, do not run it along the edges. Once you have everything sanded you can with the sander, get the stuff you couldn't get with the sander by hand. After that, give it a quick once over with the sander again. You should have nothing but fresh wood and you will be ready for finish at this point. Remember, your end product is only as good as your prep work. My general rule of thumb is that I should be able to drag my pecker across any piece of that platform with zero fear of getting a splinter in it. This frame of mind will pretty much ensure you have it completely sanded.
Finish- I'm always trying something different, but I'm back to just oiling it. At present I have four fat coats of oil that I have applied at one week intervals over the last month. It's lookin' purty. One more coat and I'm going to put all the mounting brackets back on and call it macaroni.
Holy cripes! I beat the spell checker.Last edited by NICKYPOO; 03-29-2007, 06:31 PM.
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Welcome Duane, it's great to see both you and Tim on the Tige site! Now the Tige forum has become like Fox news -- fair and balanced reporting.Originally posted by dogbert View PostI pride myself on my bias
J/KWelcome aboard Duane
And I don't know if it makes a difference or not, but my teak is not sealed treated or any of the other stuff I see sometimes. It is just raw natural wood. I think alot of you have a sealed teak, and then the board fins scrape the varnish or laquer off, so it looks awful
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I hit with a coarse, then a fine. It really didn't take all that long.
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Originally posted by NVSAirWarrior View PostAs a Polk Audio dealer I can share that the db series, althouh an entry level product, does quite will for interior speakers in the boat. For Tower speakers, well, you probably know I'm Pro Audio for 4 years now.
Back to the Polks, the db series is the entry level driver, the Momo is the next (standard Equip in the recent Nauti's) and then the SR. The SR is so expensive (MSRP $899/pr) that even as a dealer I've not heard these. Probably better for a car then a boat.
Lastly, if you're going to do car audio on the tower, I support the 6x9 approach. I think Pioneer makes an incredible 5 way 6x9 worth considering. I don't normally support multi way drivers with other transducers mounted in front of the cone but they pull it off rather well consdering the challanges.
But like any speaker, listen in the approriate environment before you buy.
Duane
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