Amp trouble.

[jackfly]

Hello, new to the site here. Just picked up a 06 24V. This is my current set up







Not overly impressed but want to use current set up for a few month. They only problem is the amp powering the in boats (kicker I think) shuts off after 10 or so minutes of use.

Doesn’t sound like a fuse, but is that where I should start. I no nothing about mobile audio, but would really like to learn.

Seems like there is a ton of knowledge on here.

Were should I start?

TIA


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[chpthril]

On the opposite side of the amp from the side pictured, is a red protect light, IIRC. next time it cuts out, see if the red light is on.

Battery voltage at the amp, when the issue is another thing we need to look at. Speaker impedance is another. I would wan to make sure whom ever installed those new speakers, did not wire them to the mid-bass leads off the old external cross-over. This would certainly monkey with the impedance at the amp.

[jackfly]

Wow thanks for the response. I was charging the batteries and after noticed a big sign on the battery box that says to disconnect battery before charging. Related? I’ll go get a volt meter and check voltage.


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[chpthril]

Unless you are using a big shop type charger with the potential for high voltage, I would not worry about that

[jackfly]

Bingo.

On to voltage?


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[chpthril]

Ok good. That tells us the amp is staying on and trying to do its job, but doesnt like something. High or low voltage will do this.

[jackfly]

Finally got the tester from my buddy
I have just over 12V at the battery, but current at the amp starts at 10.8 when I first turn it on then drops to 8.9 when goes into protection mode.
This assumes I’m testing at the right spot at indicated in the picture above.



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[jackfly]

Amp trouble.

Aaaand I think I know what’s going on.
This is my battery setup. The head unit is powered by the main starting battery and is tied to ignition key.
But the amp is connected to the right battery directly, not through the shut off. This battery seems to run the stuff tied to the switch panel ( bilge, blower, cruise, taps). So the RH battery is bad, won’t hold a charge. When I hook a charger to it stereo is normal.
I’m guessing this is a bush league set up? Should I rewire?


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[chpthril]

You definitely have a low battery issue when the engine is off. Have you had this boat running and also experienced this issue? Can you fire it up on a fake-a-lake see what the alternator voltage is at both batteries and the amp's main terminals?

Im not a fan of that twin ON/OFF switch setup, but if wired correctly, it does work. Either way, nothing but the auto bilge needs to be wired battery direct. I would certainly consider a re-wire with a proper single dual bank switch. Take it to the next level and lay in a trunk system that will support a future stereo build.

[jackfly]

I’m not sure how I can isolate my starting battery and still listen to the stereo. Does this mean it’s not wired correctly? Best place to get a diagram?


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[jackfly]

I’ll definitely change out the bad battery and put in on a fake a lake Monday. Stereo build has to wait till next year until my wave is dialed and I get some more surf boards.


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[chpthril]

In the present setup, I think you just turn off the STND side switch, which disconnects the house from the main in order to isolate it during anchor time. Just have to remember to turn it back on when you get underway.

Although the key switch wakes the head unit up, its actual power draw, should come from the large amp's power cable terminals, which are drawing from the house battery.

[jackfly]

I think you are right, except I have to have the key turned to aux and the stbd switch on to run the stereo. However, there seems to be very minimal power draw. (I just can’t test that with my meter). I guess the thinking is that the aux position on the ignition acts as load shedding. How difficult would it be to rewire to an empty switch?


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