Tower Speaker RCA's and HU Power

[mdk681]

Hey guys,

I just purchased a set of the Wet Sounds single barrel tower speakers from Monster Tower and had a couple questions. Right now I am running the in boat speakers off of the head unit power. If I were to hook up an external amp for the tower speakers to the rear RCA's, does it kill the head unit power to the exisitng rear speakers? I plan to add a toggle switch to the remote wire for the time being to turn the tower speakers on or off.

Also, where do most of you with 21v's mount your amps? I was thinking of going in the large storage compartment on the passanger side under the windshield. Is there an easy way to run RCA's from there back to the head unit?

Thanks in advance!

[Timmy!]

Shouldn't kill the head unit power, you should be good to go.

[mdk681]

Shouldn't kill the head unit power, you should be good to go.

Good to know thanks. I picked up the Wet Sounds speakers last night and am starting to plan the install. Does anyone have any tips/suggestions on running RCA's and other wires within the boat?

[Super B]

Here is what I will be installing on my boat to control volume levels for my tower speakers and sub. http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-ZXMRLC-...7961031&sr=8-1

I think the easiest way to run wires for your boat is to run the wires from the passenger compartment around the bow of the boat to the HU.

Let me know how those speakers work for ya, and that sub too!

[chpthril]

Mdk,

Your 4 current in-boats will still operate normally regardless of the use of the RCA outputs. Your are GTG there.

Instead of an on/off toggle, I would suggest a simple RCA level controller in series between the head-unit and amp. The PAC LC-1 is simple, effective and inexpensive.

In the port side mid-ship storage is a popular location to mount the amps. You should be able to mount it to the back side of the bow seat back. Or, if you want to get a bit more creative, you can make an amp rack that will give you room for future expansion. Try to keep the RCA cable runs as short as possible. Where is the head-unit currently located...helm? I would look for a path to run then through the bilge straight from the port to the starboard mid-ship. If not, then around the bow. You will sometimes find sections of PVC glassed in to the under side of the deck, these serve as raceways for cables and wires. Other wise, wire-tie your cables/wires to existing harnesses if needed.

[mdk681]

Mdk,

Your 4 current in-boats will still operate normally regardless of the use of the RCA outputs. Your are GTG there.

Instead of an on/off toggle, I would suggest a simple RCA level controller in series between the head-unit and amp. The PAC LC-1 is simple, effective and inexpensive.

In the port side mid-ship storage is a popular location to mount the amps. You should be able to mount it to the back side of the bow seat back. Or, if you want to get a bit more creative, you can make an amp rack that will give you room for future expansion. Try to keep the RCA cable runs as short as possible. Where is the head-unit currently located...helm? I would look for a path to run then through the bilge straight from the port to the starboard mid-ship. If not, then around the bow. You will sometimes find sections of PVC glassed in to the under side of the deck, these serve as raceways for cables and wires. Other wise, wire-tie your cables/wires to existing harnesses if needed.

chpthril you are a lifesaver! I have been out of the car audio game for about 5 years and had no idea there was such a thing as that RCA level controller! That should work perfectly. I did notice some PVC tube runs, I will have to look deeper into that later.

I plan on going with 2 amps right away (a 2 channel for the tower speakers, and another for a sub), so I think that I will try and make some sort of amp rack. There is a pass through from the port side storage compartment to under the port side bow seat. I was thinking about mounting the amps vertically and possibly covering that pass through so I could go 3 amps high.

On another note - I am running 2 batteries. I recently installed a battery isolator ( which I believe you helped me with ) One is a bit older and may need replacing and one was recently purchased. With a typical marine battery isolated and fully charged, how long do you think that would last if parked and powering a small 10" sub, 2 Wet Sounds tower speakers, and the 4 in-boats? Would you recommend going with a different kind/bigger battery for the audio system to increase life while parked? We do a lot of partying at an island close by and everyone loves a boat that can get some noise out there

[chpthril]

chpthril you are a lifesaver! I have been out of the car audio game for about 5 years and had no idea there was such a thing as that RCA level controller! That should work perfectly. I did notice some PVC tube runs, I will have to look deeper into that later.

I plan on going with 2 amps right away (a 2 channel for the tower speakers, and another for a sub), so I think that I will try and make some sort of amp rack. There is a pass through from the port side storage compartment to under the port side bow seat. I was thinking about mounting the amps vertically and possibly covering that pass through so I could go 3 amps high.

On another note - I am running 2 batteries. I recently installed a battery isolator ( which I believe you helped me with ) One is a bit older and may need replacing and one was recently purchased. With a typical marine battery isolated and fully charged, how long do you think that would last if parked and powering a small 10" sub, 2 Wet Sounds tower speakers, and the 4 in-boats? Would you recommend going with a different kind/bigger battery for the audio system to increase life while parked? We do a lot of partying at an island close by and everyone loves a boat that can get some noise out there

There are a lot of variables, but you could get 2-3 hours at a moderate volume level.