House battery not charging 2015 Z3

[jmcfadden]

My house battery on my 2015 Z3 Is not charging when the switch is in the "on" position. It does charge when in the "combine" position. With the engine running, both the house and the cranking busses read 14v on the tige touch display. With the engine off, the house battery will discharge very quickly. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Bakes5]

Sounds like a bad battery.

[jslayde1]

There are a few of us that have the same problem - couple of threads on the subject. I have not had time to really dig into mine, so I just run mine in "combine" all the time...

[JCP]

I had to replace the house battery in my 2015 Z3 early this summer. (same symptoms) The battery tested bad also ended up being about a year older than the boat according to Interstate, so no warranty. I would suggest labeling the battery wires before removing them and count how many there are. It is really easy to have a wire fall behind the battery when swapping.

[chpthril]

two things you need to do: 1) check the voltage of the house battery and recharge if needed. A depleted house battery will effect the operation of the ACR. 2) use a volt meter and check the ACR's control circuit for ground and check for alternator voltage on both large cables while the engine is running.

[jmcfadden]

Thanks for all the help. I checked the voltage at the main battery cables which showed 13.7 V on the house battery and 13.5 V at the cranking battery with the engine idling. With the engine off, the house battery voltage was 11.2 V and the cranking battery was 12.6 V. I pulled the house battery and charged overnight up to 12.8 V but when I load tested it it failed and voltage was down to 11.1 within an hour just sitting in the garage. So bad battery after all.

It seems strange for an Interstate battery to fail this soon since the manufacture date is just over 1 year ago. I had it on the battery minder all winter as well.

I can replace it with the same Interstate marine/rv deep cycle battery or I was considering replacing it with an AGM type deep cycle battery since they are supposed to last even longer. Does anyone know if mixing an AGM battery (house) with an lead acid battery (cranking) causes any problems?

[chpthril]

I had it on the battery minder all winter as well.

Excessively deep cycles, repeated deep cycles can shorten the life of a battery, regardless of its in-service date. Also, the wrong charger can ruin a perfectly good new battery over the layup season.

Does anyone know if mixing an AGM battery (house) with an lead acid battery (cranking) causes any problems?

Technically, you would not be mixing them, since one would be the house battery and one would be main cranking, separated by the switch and ACR. I have great success with both LAWC and AGM. The key is proper maintenance and choosing the right Ah for the job.

[jslayde1]

My house battery on my 2015 Z3 Is not charging when the switch is in the "on" position. It does charge when in the "combine" position.

Did you happen to dig into this any?

[bait28]

Did you happen to dig into this any?

2013 z1 uses a battcom I believe the 2015 z3 also uses a battcom vs acr. That being said a failed battcom will not charge house with switch in on mode. Check voltage at HB+ with yellow wire disconnected from house batt and switch in on position. Connect batter charger to crank battery. Now measure voltage at yellow wire and house ground. You will likely see 1.4-1.7 volts. If so a failed batcom.

[bluez3]

Not sure if your issue has been solved yet but I had the same issue last summer, got stuck dead on the water once, and wasn't able to start at the launch a couple times. I'm no electrical engineer so long story short, it turns out they wired the batteries incorrectly and the isolator doesn't actually isolate the house battery from the crank. After a while once your house battery dies it will start pulling from your crank and you won't be able to start the engine. My dealership had to rewire the entire battery setup and the engineer from Tige called me himself to apologize. If you are still having issues this summer I recommend contacting your dealership and asking about it.

[Germaine Marine]

Check the prolsocharge as well. Tige is having some issues with them..

[freeheel4life]

Check the stupid blue sea fuse that goes over the post at isolator. They are square and slide over post. Weirdest fuse you've ever seen. If it's blown then it cant send voltage to battery until in combine

[JTs-rz2]

There are a few of us that have the same problem - couple of threads on the subject. I have not had time to really dig into mine, so I just run mine in "combine" all the time...

X2. I go to 1 when anchored though. My acr probably shot and I cannot reach it to replace it. I have a battcom as well.

I wish the dealer would rewire mine. They told me I am crazy and it should work. It "always" worked for the previous owner.

Sent from my SM-G925V using Tapatalk

[chpthril]

Rather then re-wire, diagnose and repair. The concept if the system is great. The blue sea Dual Circuit Plus switch is solid. Depending on your year model and build date, you have one of three isolator possibilities. A diode type, the sketchy battcom combiner relay and now this new distribute on demand unit from pro-mariner.

These system are not hard to diagnose. If the relay or charge distributor is found to be the issue, swap it for a Blue Sea ACR. Ive using them for 9 years now and have yet to have one fail.

[Grebva3]

I have a 2012 RZ4 do you happen to know if I have the diode/battcom charge relay?