Transmision fluid leak

[h2osk8er00]

Here is where I ended up finding the parts.
O-ring:
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/ALT1390734/
Original part # is 4804H

Also get the gasket for the access plate. You might not need to replace it but you'll have it:
http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/p/ALT23022/
Original part # is 71-14

It was an easy fix. Just make sure you have a catch pan or another set of hands incase you drop the shift detent bearing.

THANKS jsz!

Yeah... Thanks jsz.. and thanks Barefoot.. If I can't find it at the store I will have to go online.. Anybody know how fast it leaks fluid with a bad seal...?

[Barefoot]

Do you remember what you told them to look for or did you just bring in the old parts? I'm scared of that damn ball thing dropping now..is it really hard to see or notice.. I'm sort of a clutz at times.. haha.

It's not hard to see when you start taking off the shift lever on the trans. It's just hard to get a hold of as you're taking off/on the lever. It has a spring pushing it out:

[h2osk8er00]

Is it it stainless steel or would I be able to use some sort of maganet? When would the possibility of it falling into the tranny be most likely.. From the previous posts it sounds like I take off the nut on the left and then remove the bolt/carrier from the right... It comes all the way out and goes in the same exact way? Or do I not have to worry about position or anything? Any threads on the installation would help.. Thanks!

[h2osk8er00]

Also Inoticed one of those links says it is for the 1:1 V-drive.. I have the blue V-drive so is that another size? Thanks again...

[Barefoot]

Just remove the shifter lever/ detent bearing before and you start on the other side. Then get the parts back in before installing the lever and bearing. That will keep you from dropping anything inside. It will not however keep the bearing from falling into the bilge.

As for alignment, that will be fairly self-evident if you have any mechanical skills.

[jsz]

It's been a while so I don't remember some of the specifics. Sorry. I just remember being glad I did it myself because it was not that bad. Just make sure you put the parts in a row as you take them off so you will know what order to put them back.

I have a kit w/ about 50 different size o-rings. I just found one that fit and its worked fine ever since.

[jsz]

Yeah... Thanks jsz.. and thanks Barefoot.. If I can't find it at the store I will have to go online.. Anybody know how fast it leaks fluid with a bad seal...?

No problem. Others on this site have helped me a ton so I always try and do the same... Pay it forward TIGE style!

[h2osk8er00]

No problem. Others on this site have helped me a ton so I always try and do the same... Pay it forward TIGE style!

No doubt... I oredered the rings online since I couldn't find a reference number for West Marine and I wanted to make sure I got exactly the right piece... Cost me more for shipping than for the parts! Ordered 2 of each just in case my goofy *** messes it up or the same problem arrises.. Thanks though... I'll be sure to be careful.. No doubt about that!

[h2osk8er00]

Replaced the O-ring and it wasn't hard.. seemed to fix the leak too! Very happy.. Thanks guys... Honestly what took the longest was getting the damn gasket off and making sure i had a clean surface. Other than that this was an easy task. I feel bad for you guys who did it without replainck the gasket.. it was hard to get that right side off but if you run into this problem I would def'n replace the gasket while ur all up in there..

[cmfiero]

I can add my 2 cents about it now that I have fixed my shift spool o ring. It was VERY easy. But a few things to add would be that the little "spring and ball" are on the side of the shift lever. As you take the nut, lock washer and regular washer, the ball and spring are in one of the 3 holes on the shift lever itself. There are 3 holes, because in Neutral the ball is in the center hole, and Drive the lever allows it to roll to the forward hole and reverse it goes in the back hole. The spring itself on mine did not come out and probably wouldn't, as it is stuck back in the housing a bit, the ball however is very likely to fall out as it is sandwiched between the shift lever (in the center hole in neutral) and the spring in the trans, so be aware of where it is at as you are loosening the 1/2" nut and lock washer and regular washer. After I took off the nut and lock washer and regular washer I wiggled the shift lever off of the spool (which is uniquely shaped to only fit on one way) and luckily the ball was stuck to the spring! I just was able to grab the steel ball to keep it from falling as I think it was sticking in place with a little grease.
After you figure out the side of the shift lever and have everything undone, move to the other side and take all 3 bolts out and pull metal plate off. The Gasket should stay intact and you can reuse it. You can push from the shift lever side to slide the whole assembly out to get to the o ring of the shift spool. Be careful to remember the rotation position of the assembly. On the side of where the three bolts are, there is a metal round piece that has a square indicator piece at the bottom that only fits one way and then gets sandwiched by the outer metal plate and then all three screws get put back in. The blown up diagram shows everything individually, but the whole spool assembly is in one piece. I can try and add some pics to show better what I am saying. After you take out the entire piece, you can look all the way through each side, so try to remember just how to shove it back in.... cause that was a little confusing to me as I tried to figure that out on my own... It helped that I paid attention to the position that the lever was in cause the boat was in neutral and so the lever lines up with the ball in the center hole and so when you push the spool back in the lever would bolt on in this position, and it has a "D" shape to it to fit back on the shift spool. You have to sandwich the ball in between the spring and the black lever as you put it back together. It may be easier to take the lever off from the shift cable, but you don't have to. The round metal end on the side with the 3 bolts, with the square piece fits at the bottom 6 o clock. and gets sandwiched in once you push the spool assembly back through.. You kind of hear a click from the new o ring as you push it snug back into position. I left the shift cable attached the whole time, and the sensor on the side with the 3 holes intact as well. I also stuffed a rag in the trans where the dipstick goes so as to not drop anything down in the trans. The dipstick is kind of in the way if you use a socket. If you use a wrench, you can leave the dipstick in... Hope this makes sense and helps someone out.... I am not the most mechanically inclined and I figured it out... so hopefully this helps someone?! It at least might answer a few questions.

[tigeaddict]

When I bought my 20v it had sat in someones garage for 4 years. Boat was in excellent shape, and still is, but I knew buying a boat that had sat unstarted for that long that I may have a couple issues. Took it to tahoe last year for two weeks and it ran perfectly until the last 2 days we were there. Looked down and saw that the bilge had a good amount of transmission fluid in it. I noticed because going into gear sounded different and almost felt like it was slipping a little bit. Pulled the dipstick and it was empty.

One of my seals in the transmission was shot, luckily my mechanic is honest and got the job done at a fair price. My mechanic replaced all of the seals in the transmission since he had it all taken apart, felt like it would be a good idea just to do all of them at that time. Just another idea of what it could be, you could potentially have a leaky seal!

[IDBoating]

I have a kit w/ about 50 different size o-rings.

Harbor Freight is your friend....