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Pulling Prop on 09 20V

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    Pulling Prop on 09 20V

    Small log vs. prop on what was likely the last run of the season. Log bent prop significantly. Do I need to remove the rudder to pull the prop and what tools will I need to pull the prop? It was dark(and freaking cold) when I looked at it so I know the pin on the end of the shaft was nearly sheared off, there appears to be a keyway on the driveshaft, shaft seems ok but prop is tweaked nicely. Hope it can be repaired.

    #2
    You won't need to pull the rudder. Hopefully you didn't week the shaft. Just pull the pin and the nut and it should come off with a little tug. If it won't, you might need a prop puller. You can get one from Acme.
    You'll get your chance, smart guy.

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      #3
      I don't know if a bent prop is different than a good one but you typically don't want to remove the nut all the way or the prop will shoot off. Just loosing the nut and start to work the prop off. Some that don't have a prop puller will use a piece of 2x4 and go around tapping the prop on the back softly to work it free.

      If your looking for a spare prop or even a weekend kit I would recommend Chpthril, he is great to work with.

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        #4
        X2 on leaving the nut on. I'd also recommend replacing stainless cotter pin and the key if it looks worn.

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          #5
          Having fought with a couple props tha summer just suck it up and pay the $70-80 for a real prop puller. We spent 3 hours trying to bang the prop off, use a gear puller and a coupe othe things. With an actual prop puller we changed the prop in 5 minutes with the boat in the water.

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            #6
            I need to pull the prop off our 2300V. Tried attempting the tap off method but no go, she is a tight one! So, either pay the bucks to order a correct puller or have the local shop take it off. Either way it's gonna cost me!

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              #7
              I battled my stock prop. When I finally broke down and bought the puller, I got it off of there in 5min. That was many years ago and when I re-propped this year it was simple as could be.

              It could be you're battling a bent hub with that prop.

              Good call on leaving the nut on. x2.
              You'll get your chance, smart guy.

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                #8
                Get the prop puller. You don't need to be banging on stuff. The prop puller will remove the prop easily. But be prepared for a sharp bang when the prop does come loose. That is why you leave the nut on. Not to protect the prop, but to protect your fingers and hands.

                And when you replace the prop put a very thin layer of anti-seize compound on the shaft before installing the prop. That will allow the prop to come off easily the next time it needs to be replaced, perhaps without the need of a prop puller.
                Ray Thompson
                2005 22V

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                  #9
                  x2 on the prop puller, leaving the nut on, and anti-seize/marine grease.

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                    #10
                    Acme sells a nice kit that includes everything you need, including a nice bag to store the kit and spare prop in.

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                      #11
                      Looks like everyone has covered everything but I agree, buy the prop puller and dont hammer on anything.
                      I trashed my Prop last year on underwater rocks and luckily I was able to borrow a prop puller at the lake otherwise I would have never gotten my prop off and as said above it will make a bang noise.
                      Also take your damaged prop and have it repaired you wouldn't believe how nice mine came back, repaired,balance and polished for around $175.00. Beats a new Prop at over $500.00. I now carry a extra new prop and entire Acme prop puller kit..worth every penny and piece of mind.

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                        #12
                        x1000 on that "don't hammer on anything". Remember, at the other end of that propshaft you have an expensive v-drive. You don't want to transfer hammer energy up the shaft and into the v-drive.

                        My factory prop seemed like it had been installed by a rent-a-gorilla. The torque on the nut was WAY over what is called for by Acme's instructions. It took a prop puller to get it off, and even then I had to rotate the prop puller every 90 degrees - between each blade - and tap lightly at each stop. Those instructions came straight from a phone call to Acme and they worked like a charm.

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                          #13
                          Good shops will let you "borrow" their puller. Maybe take a 6 pack with you when you ask if you're not a frequent customer.

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                            #14
                            Thanks All

                            Going to take the boat in for oil change and winterization. They said they'd pull the prop for no charge (probably). Was going to do the oil change and winterization myself before the prop but I will teach myself the process next year! I hate to pay for the winterization when my boat has to be as simple as it gets but I don't have the tools for the prop and I haven't changed oil on anything but lawnmower and snowblower in recent memory.

                            I will definitely replace key and cotter pin (pin was partially sheared off by log!)

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                              #15
                              While the prop is off, have someone hand-spin the transmission while you lie under the boat with your finger on the propshaft to see if you can feel any eccentricity. Better to discover you need to replace the propshaft BEFORE you reinstall the prop.

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