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2017 R21 Water Temp

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    2017 R21 Water Temp

    My water temperature indication is reading -20 (Minimum). The sensor is integral with the depth sounder. The depth reading is working. The connector is good. It was working, I replaced my batteries, I took it out, and it wasn't working. Anyone have any experience troubleshooting this issue? How to test the sensor? How it reports to the display screen?
    Thanks for any info...


    #2
    It communicates on the CAN with the screen. They fail from time to time. Sounds like your has failed. Get one under warranty.

    Here's my take if you are DIY.....get the part and wait to replace it when you sell/trade the boat. Do you really need lake temp?? Is it that important?? In my experience its "you are either getting in or you arent". If you are a wetsuit/drysuit guy put it on if in doubt.

    You can get a pool thermometer from Amazon for 10$ . I get that it is a feature on your boat and it should work. Get a biducer on warranty. Thats the joy of having a new boat

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      #3
      Thanks Freeheel4life,
      This is by far my favorite response.
      I try to do everything myself. I have trust issues and I'm mildly neurotic. Our local dealer (200 miles away) took care of everything for the last owner and I got the boat with several minor but important maintenance issues that they overlooked (most mechanics are useless). I've contacted the "Biducer" manufacturer to determine how to read the data from the sensor so I can confirm that is what is in fact malfunctioning. I find it odd that the temp feature would fail but the depth feature continues to work, but it does us a thermistor to acquire the temperature and thermistors are kind of dainty.
      Despite the water temperature is not that important to you or I, the R21 has like 3 features. It's not like I lost a leaf on the tree of features, I've lost a branch. My vessel is only like 65% functional now.
      My fear is this:
      Everybody has made a nice guess that the sensor has failed (I'm sure the dealer will say the same thing). I get a new sensor and it does not solve the problem. which is why I would like to determine how to test it. I have a CAN sniffer, I think I am going to try to generate a CAN Map for this system so I CAN (lol) troubleshoot stuff on my own.

      PS: Do you know what the USB port on the back of the screen is for?

      Thanks, again.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by rbaenziger View Post
        I have trust issues and I'm mildly neurotic.
        Lol...just to be clear, I’m laughing with you!!! I feel the same way sometimes......


        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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          #5
          USB port is where you do software updates.

          I just check 12v on the purple, ground on the black and check that can hi and can low voltages are good.

          Just fyi its J1939 on your boat
          Last edited by freeheel4life; 09-28-2020, 03:07 PM.

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            #6
            Thanks,
            Great Info.. Is the Baud 500k? or 1M? do u know??

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              #7
              Also, Do you have access to a CAN ID Map??

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                #8
                Pretty sure its 25kbps. You are deeper than I on CAN. Don't know what you mean by a CAN ID Map?? Like what the packet identifiers are in the message??

                Theres a guy goes by @Scutty over on WakeGarage thats super tech savvy and might have some more info. He was working on building a DIY MEFI scanner.

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                  #9
                  correct... Packet Ids. not needed, but saves some time...
                  Thanks again.

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                    #10
                    Yeah, I have none of that. FW Murphy/Econtrols would be the source since they are doing hardware and software. GPS puck, engine ECM, and screens all come from them. The Airmar bi ducer and the shadow caster RGB controller in newer boats are the only nodes that arent done by by Murphy/Econtrols on Tige/ATX

                    Would love to see the results of where you get with this.. kind of the point of the forum..please keep this thread updated if you dive into diagnostics on the bi ducer.

                    As said, if I see power, ground and good can voltages I just change it and always been the fox. Just had one where depth went but temp was fine last week..
                    Last edited by freeheel4life; 09-28-2020, 11:54 PM.

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                      #11
                      Fail enough... I'm going to file a warranty claim, but also continue to figure out how this all works... resources seem to be limited and it will become important to know some of this as warranties begin to expire on these units. I'll update as i know more. It will be a bit of a fall/winter project for me..

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                        #12
                        I cant get edit to work.... *Fair Enough

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                          #13
                          I have owned several boats now and been on a few more. Each with a water temp gauge. In my experience they almost NEVER work right. IMO if they don't read 80* all the time they are broken.

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