1999 2200i - Pull Transmission

[dstixs5]

Ok guys.. new tige owner here! Im sorry if i doing my intro wrong. I've been a PWC guy my entire life and I just recently bought a 1999 2200i and got a super deal on the boat. The family has grown! The transmission needs to be pulled to be sent off for rebuild/repair. It currently has the 350MPI motor with the Velvet drive transmission. Im very mechanical but this is my first inboard so i wanted to get a little assistance before i went to wrenching. I bought the merc service manual for the engine and its fairly descriptive for removing the transmission from the motor but doesnt really mention the shaft, thru-hull steps, etc. This is what im missing and wanted to get right. Does anyone have the required steps to remove the shaft from the transmission properly? I plan to send to Simplicity Marine in FL as this was the shop suggested by the previous owner. Does anyone have any experience with them as well?

[skippabcool]

Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the site.

Post some pics of your boat.

Others will have to chime in about helping remove the transmission, sorry I wasn't any help.

[Super B]

Someone will correct me if I am wrong, but I think the easiest way is to remove the propshaft strut, remove the through hull fittings and you should be able to wiggle out the shaft..

[dom w. forte]

How much clearence between the trans. flange and the stuffing box, if it will go back about an inch you should have room to unbolt the rear mounts lift up the trans enough to put a block under bell housing and unbolt trans and slip out.
You mighty have to pull the prop for additional movement.

[AdaminMN]

I think the rear mounts are attached to the transmission, correct? If that's the case, it'll be difficult to pull out just the transmission.

I was able to remove the 4 coupling bolts and slide the shaft away from the engine. I have a stuffing box, if you have a dripless setup, you may have to loosten it up first.

The transmission has to be pulled out about 1.5 to 2 inches for the input shaft to pull free from the flexplate.

My boat is a bit older, but the procedure is similar.

Good luck!

[dstixs5]

Thanks so much for all the replies. They were really helpful. Here are a couple pics. Its definitely still a work in progress but I like it alot so far. Right now its all white on outside and all decals striped for new wrap(pic is a mock up by the design company), seats just recovered. Still needs carpet done. I just bought a new clarion stereo and power amp for all speakers. Im still trying to decide on sub or not. Blue LED underwater lights in back.

[AdaminMN]

Great looking boat, and I love the wrap.

Get the sub. You won't regret it. 6.5" Cabin speakers don't have the range to sound right when not in an enclosed area.

[laserfish]

Love the wrap! Good luck with the repairs.

[jake's02-22i]

I love the wrap. I don't like many wraps but that one is nice. No skulls right?

You should read some of the threads on that tower. Depending on how the previous owners used it you might want that to be a project later on down the line. Look for cracks.

[dstixs5]

Tower is in great condition. "Supposedly" the previous owner went over thoroughly before powdercoating. I have inspected as well and couldnt find any issues. Hopefully the recover isnt hiding anything. I will probably upgrade the tower in the fall to something better, maybe it'll make it through the summer. Im aware of the metcraft issues for sure.

[ajholt7]

That is one sweet wrap.

[NICKYPOO]

I'm not big on wraps either but, that one is dope.

That interior looks like it's going to get hot. How much did you spend on it, if you don't mind me asking?

Get the sub. You wont regret it. The tough part is putting it under the helm. The only access is through the little door in the walk through. I had to design a box that would be big enough for the sub and small enough to fit through the door. My 10" sub required 1 cubic foot of air space for a sealed enclosure. Others are going to tell you that a ported enclosure is the way to go. You'll be just fine with the sealed. Mine hits much harder than I will ever need and sounds great. If you need dimensions, let me know.

The other thing that works extremely well on that boat in the FAE. Especially for those in the back seat. It will be the best $400 you ever spend on that thing.

[chpthril]

Good looking wrap, brings the interor together.

No offence to anyone, but powder coating that gen Metcrap is like rolling a cat turd in brown sugar, its still a POS

[ajholt7]

No offence to anyone, but powder coating that gen Metcrap is like rolling a cat turd in brown sugar, its still a POS

Thats funny!

[boatwakes]

Trans pull: remove the bolts on the flange holding the shaft to the gearbox, loosen bolts on forward engine mounts (they hold the arms from the engine mount to the hull, not the bolts on the mts to the engine) to allow the motor to tilt up from the rear, remove bolts holding rear trans mounts to hull and using an A-frame, engine hoist, forklift or something to lift the back of the motor, raise the rear of the engine up and use wood blocks under the oil pan to hold it in place being careful not to pinch the oil change hose at the rear. Remove trans and send to rebuild. BTW, we just installed one we bought as new old stock on ebay, unit cost $895 and had a warranty through Borg Warner. Look around before you have someone rebuild it, you may get lucky enough to remove and replace in the same day. -Good luck.