2007 22i revival project

[txmxer]

I have not been great at updating this thread. Between travel, weekend obligations, yet another boat project, and school full time I’ve been chipping away at this project. Had to send the tower back to powdercoat due to poor finish.

The fuel tank is all hooked up, most of the interior is in. The left tower leg will get bolted on this weekend, remainder of the interior will go in, and hopefully I’ll start the boat up and let it idle a bit this weekend. It’s getting very close, finishing touches are getting there.

I think I’ll do finishing touches like tower speakers, interior lights, and setting up the ballast after we take a few lake trips.

[txmxer]

[txmxer]

[txmxer]

[Kt711]

Looking Good! What are you planning on running for ballast? are you plumbing it in? Here's a little information on what we run in our 2005 22i. We have 4 400lb fatsacs and maybe 300lbs of lead in place and sometimes a little extra that we bring out when its just 4 of us. Lead is split evenly in the rear compartments underneath of the seat that sticks forward. We have 3 fatsac configurations that we run, all of them we use a mission delta and run a speed of 10.8 to 11.4 (I prefer 11-11.2).

1)"Maxed out rear" when we only have 4 people and the lake is calm. Surfside bag in locker as full as it can get, Offside locker maybe half full (we found a little more list helps and its less stress on the motor), one bag full across floor behind motor, one bag full across back seat, the extra lead(~120lbs) in the nose of the boat and then people sit on the surfside midship up to the windshield.

2) "Normal", typically run this setup with 4-7 people. Surfside bag in locker full, offside bag 3/4 to full, on bag full across floor behind motor, a bag in the centre of bow maybe half full as far to back as possible but fill based on # of people in rear (downside is you can't open the driver side foot storage area), usually don't bring the xtra lead and then people sit as far back as possible and on the surf side.

3) "large crew" 8+ people. Surfside bag full, offside bag full, no bag on the floor behind the motor, bag in the centre of the bow maybe half full but fill based on people weight in rear, no extra lead and people sit as far back as possible and on surf side. also make sure you've got a full tank of gas every time because that is "ballast" weight in the rear.

We had an acme 515 that wasn't enough prop so we now run an acme 1231 prop @ 2000 feet of elevation and it has been able handle the weight but is near the upper , limit, while surfing the boat usually runs at 2700-3100rpm depending on load and speed. We probably can't run much more weight without getting to sketchy, at the maxed out semi-listed rear setup when hitting waves, water comes over the height of the rear locker vent(we stuck a little 1/2" foam between the vent and hatch to stop the water).

Hopefully this info helps you or someone else dial in their 22i. Our surf wave is on par with or better than most of the same era and a bit newer v drives on our lake, only difference is that all of their ballast can be hidden in storage and is easier to plumb in.

[txmxer]

Looking Good! What are you planning on running for ballast? are you plumbing it in? Here's a little information on what we run in our 2005 22i. We have 4 400lb fatsacs and maybe 300lbs of lead in place and sometimes a little extra that we bring out when its just 4 of us. Lead is split evenly in the rear compartments underneath of the seat that sticks forward. We have 3 fatsac configurations that we run, all of them we use a mission delta and run a speed of 10.8 to 11.4 (I prefer 11-11.2).

1)"Maxed out rear" when we only have 4 people and the lake is calm. Surfside bag in locker as full as it can get, Offside locker maybe half full (we found a little more list helps and its less stress on the motor), one bag full across floor behind motor, one bag full across back seat, the extra lead(~120lbs) in the nose of the boat and then people sit on the surfside midship up to the windshield.

2) "Normal", typically run this setup with 4-7 people. Surfside bag in locker full, offside bag 3/4 to full, on bag full across floor behind motor, a bag in the centre of bow maybe half full as far to back as possible but fill based on # of people in rear (downside is you can't open the driver side foot storage area), usually don't bring the xtra lead and then people sit as far back as possible and on the surf side.

3) "large crew" 8+ people. Surfside bag full, offside bag full, no bag on the floor behind the motor, bag in the centre of the bow maybe half full but fill based on people weight in rear, no extra lead and people sit as far back as possible and on surf side. also make sure you've got a full tank of gas every time because that is "ballast" weight in the rear.

We had an acme 515 that wasn't enough prop so we now run an acme 1231 prop @ 2000 feet of elevation and it has been able handle the weight but is near the upper , limit, while surfing the boat usually runs at 2700-3100rpm depending on load and speed. We probably can't run much more weight without getting to sketchy, at the maxed out semi-listed rear setup when hitting waves, water comes over the height of the rear locker vent(we stuck a little 1/2" foam between the vent and hatch to stop the water).

Hopefully this info helps you or someone else dial in their 22i. Our surf wave is on par with or better than most of the same era and a bit newer v drives on our lake, only difference is that all of their ballast can be hidden in storage and is easier to plumb in.

Thats awesome info! Im sure I will dial it in similarly when I get to that point, previous owner actually plumbed all the ballast and stuff, I just want to spend some time on the water before I tackle running through the plumbing and double checking everything, I'll have to check the size of the bags but I think its as much as I'll need to run

[txmxer]

Anyone have advice on pressing the pins for the tower? So each support arm has a cylinder (pin) that gets pressed in once the actual tower is mounted to it and then held in with c- clips. But these cylinders do not want to move or be pressed. Should I buy an air hammer or just mount the legs and take it to a machine shop and have them press it?

If they came out easy I would bore out the sleeve so it presses in easier but man its a pita

[txmxer]

Ok guys, I need your help. I was ready to start the boat up this weekend, I have fresh batteries, power to dash and all the switches but no power to the engine or hour meter etc. I checked connections, went through fuses, found a powered wire to the ignition switch that wasnt connected, rewired that, still nothing. I also bypassed the battery selector switch and still nothing. I put a voltmeter to the purple wire (power?) and other end to a ground and had a zero reading. Im not great with a voltmeter but was wondering if theres anything else to check before buying a new ignition switch.

Didnt have any problems previously about a year ago when I first bought the boat but after sitting a while something is up.

[Grebva3]

I’d say start simple…check batteries, kill switch, do you have power at ignition…not saying you haven’t already done this…neutral safety switch

[txmxer]

I’d say start simple…check batteries, kill switch, do you have power at ignition…not saying you haven’t already done this…neutral safety switch

So batteries are good, I could check kill switch again, but there is no neutral safety switch. Im thinking its a power problem between the battery and ignition because im not getting any power at all to the gauges or fuel pump priming or anything. I ordered a new ignition switch and hoping to get lucky with that.

[Grebva3]

Any luck

[txmxer]

Any luck

Haven’t had time to install it yet, but this weekend I’ll give it a shot. Can’t think of what else it could be unless there’s a problem with the 50amp breaker

[txmxer]

Good news, got to trace wires in the daylight and had a disconnect kill switch wire. Now I have power to the dash, but no beeping or fuel pump priming. Going to clean up the connectors at the solenoid and try a new relay to see if I can get the fuel pump to prime

[txmxer]

So as I went to clean up the connections on the starter solenoid, the post stripped and as I dug into the starter a little bit there was a lot of corrosion and rust. Although I had good voltage at the starter and no reason functionally to replace the starter it turned into a wear and tear thing with the amount of corrosion on the posts and internally.

I need a new starter and I'll hook up all electrical again and swap the good relay and see if that fixes my problem.

[Grebva3]

Even though it’s a little painful you’re making progress working the electrical gremlins that tend to happen when boats sit for quite some time.