Brand New 08 RZ4 problem need help!

[MRMoffat1]

I caught my early enough to save my decals. It was the molding behind the rub rail that has been trashed.

Reference Post 19 of thread:

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...?t=3900&page=2

[majestic]

MRMoffat1,

I saw your boat outside sportboats today (nice color combo) why are you putting her away so early? Are you going to be at the event this Sunday?

[MRMoffat1]

MRMoffat1,

I saw your boat outside sportboats today (nice color combo) why are you putting her away so early? Are you going to be at the event this Sunday?

7 trips east of moutains this year + seafair = we are done

Normally the boat sits for 3-4 weeks in fall at dealer until winterization is done. Slight miscalculation with SportBoatNorthwest this year: done today, in 3 days

Plan to be there on Sunday.

[juniors]

I'm still thinking that I might be there, watching weather

[juniors]

Oops

[balair]

Hawkfanweb,

I am disappointed in myself that I have not contacted you sooner. Surf expo was this weekend, and I have just now been able to get on the web. I will be traveling back to cal. all today, but I will try to talk too Tige as much as possible so I can get back to you tomorrow with a solution.

Looking forward to working things out,

Ben Pigeon
325-518-6685
ben@tige.com

[jbf]

Haven't been on the board in a bit -- I trade mortgage bonds, so i think I have a good excuse given the mkts the past few weeks! -- but I couldn't help but wonder one, very obvious question that I hope to G-d the mechanics and Tige reps have thot to check on your boat...I have an '08 RZ4 as well and b/c I put the boat in saltwater (we are on Long Island, NY), I have the saltwater flush system. My brother-in-law took my boat out one afternoon a few weeks ago after having forgotten to put the brass cap for the flush system back on and the boat did exactly what u r describing -- sputtered & heated up. Any shot your boat has a flush system and the cap is missing? I know it's obvious, so pls don't be insulted, it's just that your problems sounded a lot like what happened when our cap was off...

[hawkfanweb]

Any shot your boat has a flush system and the cap is missing?

I will let everyone know what the issue is once We take it to Sport Boat Northwest who have been very reassuring to me about getting to the bottom of this. We are taking to them on Friday morning. Hopefully it is something that simple.

[majestic]

Any shot your boat has a flush system and the cap is missing?

I will let everyone know what the issue is once We take it to Sport Boat Northwest who have been very reassuring to me about getting to the bottom of this. We are taking to them on Friday morning. Hopefully it is something that simple.

Are you going to stop by saturday for the event?

[juniors]

Are you going to stop by saturday for the event?

you mean Sunday right?

[majestic]

you mean Sunday right?

Oops

[hawkfanweb]

We decided on taking the boat to Sport Boat Northwest today, Thursday morning instead. It the boat is up and running, we will try and make it out there for Sundays event.

[chpthril]

Update???

[empty_boat]

Hawkfan,

We had a 6.0 with the heat exchanger that "used" or "lost" antifreeze. The problem turned out to be the heat exchanger. It had bad seals in the end caps and would leak antifreez into the lake when the engine was running but would not pull lake water into the engine, so the coolant level would drop and the engine would over heat. An automotive style coolant system pressure tester helped us solve the problem.

Also check all hoses and lines including up to the heater and look for antifreez in the bilge. In our situation it was difficult because there was no antifreeze in the bilge, it took a while to figure out where it was going.

Also when troubleshooting a fuel system problem, one of the first and easiest steps is to use a "remote tank" like a 3 gallon outboard fuel tank and disconnect the line from the main tank and use the tank remoate tank and see if your boat operates correctly. This step separates the prbolem, it helps to isolate if the problem is in the boat or on the engine. Sometimes the test is inconclusive, but it may elimate the tank, anti syphon valve and the fuel itself. You know the fuel is good in the remote tank, and you can pre prime the fuel system with the primer bulb. Also you have the ability to be a human fuel pump, if the engine begins to sputter, you can squeeze the bulb and see if it takes off and runs again, if it does you now know to look at the fuel pump and so on.

Another simple trouble shooting step is to take a inductive timing light and put it on any spark plug wire, when the engine sputters, does the light flash consistently, if the light seems to go out then you most likely have an elctrical problem. Often loose electrical connections can "mimick" a fuel problem. They also will not show most diagnostic software.

Considering the location of the boat (Seattle) and remembering back to my days as marine mechanic there, (1985-1992) I might look first for water in the fuel and then I would look at electrical. With all the rain and moist climate, you can have problems that you don't have in drier climates. I have seen water inside key switches, corrosion on lanyard switches and so on that react intermittently and cause problems that are hard to locate. Considering that the boat may have been at the dealer for a few months before you bought it these could be a problem, but as I said before start with the simple and move on from there.

I have to check with my wife on our plans for Thanksgiving but we were talking of visiting my mother in law in Shoreline (ugh!), so if you need help I may be availbable.
(I have been a Tige dealer since 2003 and been in the boat business for 27 years)

Keep us informed

Tom