General oil use question?

[TRD]

Question about oil to use. I have a 2000 21i and I was told to use 5w-30 Mobile one Synthetic oil, but my books says this:
The use of non-detergent oils, multi-viscosity oils, synthetic oils, low quality oils or oils that contain solid addititves are specifically not recommentded. Will the synthetic hurt anything or should I use something else?
Thanks

[laserfish]

anhaney, where are you?

[chpthril]

anhaney, where are you?

On Mead with the rest of us

I'm not a big fan of synthetic, I use Merc's Marine oil.......15W-40 I think.

[spooner]

I have used Mobil One 15-50 for 5 seasons about 150-200 hrs/season about 3 changes a year. I think the maine reason for using marine oil is its ability to handle or hold moisture in suspension. Since our oil temp never reaches 212 degrees the water, that is a natural byproduct of combustion, never vaporizes off leaving trace amounts in the oil.


5-30 is too thin the bearing clearences are set for a heavier oil in that engine some one posted a chart a couple days ago from merc and it basically came down to if you dont use the merc oil then use 40w automotive oil.

[TRD]

I'm not a big fan of synthetic, I use Merc's Marine oil.......15W-40 I think.

Thanks Chptril. I knew you were at Mead and I was going to put the boat up this wkend but wasn't sure about the oil. I really didn't want to put it away just in case we could get out again. I still am not 100% sure about what all I have to do w/out putting antifreeze in the block (I wanted to just drain it this year). Are you thinking about going to Martinsville next wkend for the truck race.

I have used Mobil One 15-50 for 5 seasons about 150-200 hrs/season about 3 changes a year. I think the maine reason for using marine oil is its ability to handle or hold moisture in suspension. Since our oil temp never reaches 212 degrees the water, that is a natural byproduct of combustion, never vaporizes off leaving trace amounts in the oil.

5-30 is too thin the bearing clearences are set for a heavier oil in that engine some one posted a chart a couple days ago from merc and it basically came down to if you dont use the merc oil then use 40w automotive oil.

Thanks spooner, I'm glad I didn't use it. I don't run my boat but 50-75hrs a year so can I use the 5w-30 Mobile one in my 4-runner or Honda?
Thanks for the answers.

[CP3]

anhanney gave me the whole deal with oils and spectral analysis stuff. I cant explain it but he did a great job explaining it to me

[anhaney]

here it is

Synthetic oil is very slick stuff. It is great to use if you are using your boat on a regular basis. When I mean you don't let it sit more than a week between uses. I use at least a 10W40 Mobil One Synthetic. I have seen the spectra analysis on all the different oils. Mobil one stood up the best. Castrol Syntec second place and Purple Royal third place.

When storing the boat for the winter I use Lucas oil stabilizer and regular 10W40 or if you can find 15W40 or 50 is the best. This way the oils will stay up in the top end of the engine and you take a lesser chance of loosing your lubrication at the start up for the first time when putting it back into operation.

I change my engine oil every three month or thirty hours weather it looks like it needs it or not. Three months is the max time on the oil. It becomes very ACIDIC or another way to say it is the PH goes way high. After it has been put into and engine and started even for five minutes the process on the oil becoming this way starts. So store your boat with a good oil and stabilizer and run it for awhile with a fake lake before you store it. This will push all the oil and stabilizer up into the top end of the engine. Then in spring the first thing you do is change the oil to the oil you want to run for the season on.

Hope this helps.

[TRD]

Synthetic oil is very slick stuff. It is great to use if you are using your boat on a regular basis. When I mean you don't let it sit more than a week between uses. I use at least a 10W40 Mobil One Synthetic. I have seen the spectra analysis on all the different oils. Mobil one stood up the best. Castrol Syntec second place and Purple Royal third place.

When storing the boat for the winter I use Lucas oil stabilizer and regular 10W40 or if you can find 15W40 or 50 is the best. This way the oils will stay up in the top end of the engine and you take a lesser chance of loosing your lubrication at the start up for the first time when putting it back into operation.

I change my engine oil every three month or thirty hours weather it looks like it needs it or not. Three months is the max time on the oil. It becomes very ACIDIC or another way to say it is the PH goes way high. After it has been put into and engine and started even for five minutes the process on the oil becoming this way starts. So store your boat with a good oil and stabilizer and run it for awhile with a fake lake before you store it. This will push all the oil and stabilizer up into the top end of the engine. Then in spring the first thing you do is change the oil to the oil you want to run for the season on.

Hope this helps.

anhaney,
can I ask a few questions please. You are saying to put "high" grade oil in w/ a stabilizer for the winter then change it out before I start the season? is this correct, and do I want to use 15w-40 or 15w-50?

Chptril,
Other then the peacocks what hose would I need to take off to make sure the water is out of the block? and is there anything else?
If you want to ride some yet this year I can wait a couple of wks before I do mine if you want to come up.

[anhaney]

anhaney,
can I ask a few questions please. You are saying to put "high" grade oil in w/ a stabilizer for the winter then change it out before I start the season? is this correct, and do I want to use 15w-40 or 15w-50?

Chptril,
Other then the peacocks what hose would I need to take off to make sure the water is out of the block? and is there anything else?
If you want to ride some yet this year I can wait a couple of wks before I do mine if you want to come up.

What does it say on your oil cap 15W 40 or 50 that is what you need to use. 15W40 or 50 both are fine in my opinion unless you are in Arizona, Texas or those states with extreme temperatures. If you are in Canada I would say run 10W40 even in the summer months. It is not as hot there.

[Jason B]

Here's a stupid question. The oil drain hose that comes up from the bottom of the motor--- do I need to just undo the screw and lower it down into the bilge (into a container obviously) or do I need to get an oil suction pump thing to pull the oil out.
I've never done it on a boat before and my dealer wants 70$ to do it when they winterize it. That's too much for something I can do myself (with your help )

[chpthril]

anhaney,
can I ask a few questions please. You are saying to put "high" grade oil in w/ a stabilizer for the winter then change it out before I start the season? is this correct, and do I want to use 15w-40 or 15w-50?

Chptril,
Other then the peacocks what hose would I need to take off to make sure the water is out of the block? and is there anything else?
If you want to ride some yet this year I can wait a couple of wks before I do mine if you want to come up.

You will do just fine with 15W-40. I'd spend my $$$ on Marine oil, for the added moisture inhibitors, and skip the Synthetic. With the conventional oil, you wont need to change again @ beginning of season.

Here's a stupid question. The oil drain hose that comes up from the bottom of the motor--- do I need to just undo the screw and lower it down into the bilge (into a container obviously) or do I need to get an oil suction pump thing to pull the oil out.
I've never done it on a boat before and my dealer wants 70$ to do it when they winterize it. That's too much for something I can do myself (with your help )

I've found on mine, it takes to long to drain out the hose, but the sucker will get all but about 1/2 qt. so I use both methods.

The drain hose should be long enough to drop out the bilge drain.

I also like to fill the new filter about 3/4 full before installing. This helps prevent dry running while the pumps primes up again.

[zad0030]

Here's a stupid question. The oil drain hose that comes up from the bottom of the motor--- do I need to just undo the screw and lower it down into the bilge (into a container obviously) or do I need to get an oil suction pump thing to pull the oil out.
I've never done it on a boat before and my dealer wants 70$ to do it when they winterize it. That's too much for something I can do myself (with your help )

I use the hose without a pump, and its easiest if you run the engine before hand to warm up the oil, it will flow more nicely Make sure there are no kinks in the hose and open up the cap to let some venting. Also what we like to do, becuase our oil filter is mounted upside down, is punch a hole in the top so it will drain along with the rest of the oil.

[CP3]

told you andy knew what he was talkin about

[Jason B]

Thanks guys! There is no chance my drain tube will make it to the drain plug hole, it's on the opposite side. I just wasn't sure if oil would come spurting out or what was going to happen. This info helps.

[CP3]

its good to warm up the motor for a minute and the drain tube will reach the drain hole but you have to take off the clamp that holds it to the front of the motor or at least thats what we do with mine