TAPS 21 v2.0

[Zackdogg]

Boom.
[ATTACH]51315[/ATTACH]

Damn dude! I’d definitely be happy with that! How much of that is because of GSA?

Did you have a dealer install yours? Do you know what is required for the move in actuators?


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[bsreid]

Me and my dad manned the install by ourselves, was a bit of a pain getting the correct angles with the actuators. To move the actuator you just need to drill new holes and cover up the old.

[Zackdogg]

Ok, so self install is manageable.

The plates screw directly into the existing taps holes??

Not worried about the repairs..

Does GSA tell you those angles, and where to mount the actuator? Or is it evident where the actuator mounts, based off the angles? Is the angle in relation to the transom??

Sorry for the 99 questions, I’m kinda stoked to find someone that knows that they work, and had installed them. I plan on calling GSA for these, but figured they’d tell me what I want to hear, anyways.


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[Germaine Marine]

We have been doing Gsa on every hill for nearly 2 years. I’m a phone call away. If you call Ryan he’s going to
Direct you to me most likely . They only sell the complete kits. He also doesn’t know a thing about how tiges software is driving the plates from an amperage perspective. That’s what we have 2 years perfecting .

[Germaine Marine]

Knowing this is key so that you can set the plates correctly. If you set the plates out of the water it’s a little confusing. You won’t get that same deployment while in the water. Knowing this and how much different it is is the key.

[bsreid]

What do you mean by setting the plates out of the water?

[UNSTUCK]

Ok, so self install is manageable.

The plates screw directly into the existing taps holes??
GSA's hinge will not line up with the existing Tige bolt holes. You either make an adapter or you fill the the Tige holes and then drill new holes to match the GSA tab. You could scrap GSA's hinge and make your own hinge that has GSA tab holes on one side and Tige transom holes on the other. I have a paper template I could send you if you went that route....assuming your boat and my boat have the same pattern.

Not worried about the repairs..

Does GSA tell you those angles, and where to mount the actuator? Or is it evident where the actuator mounts, based off the angles? Is the angle in relation to the transom??
I taped the whole area of the transom with blue tape. This allowed me to mark it all up with a sharpie. The hinge of the tab is pretty much flush or just above the edge of the hull running surface. Just like your TAPS3 tab is mounted. It mounts parallel to the running surface just like TAPS3 does. All you have to figure out is how far inboard the tab is mounted. GSA says 3-4 inches. If you go too far inboard you will hit the swim deck mount, so mount it just outboard of the swim deck mount so that the tab can lift all the way to the bottom of the swim deck. Mark the hinge screw holes with your sharpie on the blue tape. Drill the holes as directed in the GSA videos. Now mount your actuator to the GSA tab. Use a cordless drill battery to run the actuator all the way in, so it is at is't shortest length. Just touch the two actuator wires to the battery posts. If it extends out, reverse the two wires. With the actuator all the way in, lift the tab all the way up so it's 1/2" or so below the swim deck (this may take a few extra hands). Now place the transom side of the actuator up against the transom, nice and flat and perpendicular to the tab (to prevent any binding). Draw a line around the triangular shaped mount on your blue tape. That new triangle will be about 1-2" above your hinge screws. Now if you have an angle finder you can zero it out on the bottom of the hull and then place it on the tab, still all the way up. It will be about 30 degrees up. Maybe a little more. I think mine was 34. Now run your actuator all the way out using the battery. The actuator transom mount should now easily be placed right back in that triangle you drew before. If you have to use any force to get it back inside that triangle, the actuator is bound up and you need to move your triangle mark a little bit. First check that your mounting bolt and spacers are ok and not preventing any movement. If the mount lined right up with your triangle you are done. You can check the downward angle the same way and you did before. My number was 16 degrees down. This gave me a total travel of 50 degrees. GSA says you need to have at least 12 degrees down. Remove the actuator from the transom mount and then line the mount back up in your sharpie triangle and drill out the three screw holes and the center hole for the wiring. Be sure to check behind where you drill. As I recall I was very close to hitting a ballast hose.

Sorry for the 99 questions, I’m kinda stoked to find someone that knows that they work, and had installed them. I plan on calling GSA for these, but figured they’d tell me what I want to hear, anyways.


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Clear as mud?

[Zackdogg]

We have been doing Gsa on every hill for nearly 2 years. I’m a phone call away. If you call Ryan he’s going to
Direct you to me most likely . They only sell the complete kits. He also doesn’t know a thing about how tiges software is driving the plates from an amperage perspective. That’s what we have 2 years perfecting .

From everyone I’ve talked to, you sound like the Tige GSA guy. I’ll definitely be hitting you up, whether it’s for parts and advice, or if it’s to drag my boat down to you, this winter.

I feel confident that I can do them myself, at this point, but also want the most bang for my buck.. I’m sure you aren’t looking to give away all the secrets, but it looks like you mount the actuator and inch over the plate, and, so there is 12° of deployment, basically. Am I missing something else there?


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[Zackdogg]

Clear as mud?

Haha!! Clear as the lake I’ll be in tonight!!

I did my homework yesterday, and I’ve got the gist, now.. I would do them pretty close to the way Cole did.. my metal guy is also a race car and jet ski race guy, and also a genius fab guy, so I’d probably take all the info I have to him, and see what his thought for the best mounting system is.. it looks like attaching them to the boat is the easy part. Angles and clearance seems to be the thing you have to look at closely, if my thinking is right..




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[UNSTUCK]

If you have your buddy make mounting adapters just be sure to let him know that the mounting holes are not symmetrical port and starboard. They are mirrored. If he makes the same bracket twice, one will not bolt onto your transom.

[bsreid]

Thanks josh. Just trying to rub it in aren’t you...

[UNSTUCK]

Hey, I said no such thing. You just sank your own ship!

[Zackdogg]

If you have your buddy make mounting adapters just be sure to let him know that the mounting holes are not symmetrical port and starboard. They are mirrored. If he makes the same bracket twice, one will not bolt onto your transom.

I read that you said that, I kept meaning to look, to see which direction they’re mirrored, just for my info.. I figured I’d give him my tabs to build off of, anyways..


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[UNSTUCK]

They should be mirrored left to right. Not up and down. Don’t take anything for granted though. Your set up might be different. Tige changes things up now and then.

[Germaine Marine]

Clear as mud?

Gsa should be Max 12 degrees down not minimum. It should really be set with about 9-10 degrees down and as much stowed as you can get usually 28 degrees plus. Our boats are set at roughly 11-12 down with full stroke and ran at roughly 7-8 degrees down for surf, 10-11 for skim.

The stowed angle is the most important here. You need 26 degrees minimum of stowed angle.