Winterization???

[MJO21]

2013 Z3 343 PMC

Can I just drain the block and manifolds or is it necessary to pump antifreeze through the block?

[JohnnieMo]

I made a video on this exact process:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vjDp_C-jmc

Short answer is you have three options:
1) Drain the water and blow air through the system
2) Run Antifreeze through the system
3) Drain the water AND run antifreeze.

Option 3 is obviously the safest but guys often report other methods with success. If your area doesn't get too cold, you should be fine with any of the above.

If you to decide to drain, make sure you drain all 8 places plus the heater core.

[MJO21]

For a first year owners, it sounds like it will be worth it to take it to a professional for now...

[JohnnieMo]

For a first year owners, it sounds like it will be worth it to take it to a professional for now...

It took me 7 hours the first time. However anyone will tell you I work slower than ... well... anyone. The hardest part is fitting in the hatches. If you are less than 250lbs, it will be a lot easier for you than me. I find it's really nice to learn how your boat works. It's better to find out at home than try to learn on the lake when something breaks.

[chpthril]

No, it is not necessary to run marine/rv antifreeze through the block, as long as you get a good drain from the crucial areas. Block, manifolds, hearer, trans cooler, v-drive, shower.

[sandm]

I paid for winterization first year and agree with Johnnie in that I did it myself after that. learned a lot...
having lived in cold climates for many years I never pumped antifreeze. drain water, change oil, pull plugs and fog, then put her away. that worked for me but do at your own risk.
I'll get flamed on here but I never pulled the impeller. I just replaced it every other spring whether it needed it or not. averaged 50-75hrs/yr some years and this worked for me.

and fwiw at 220lbs it's still a contorted pita to do it especially those block drains

[JohnnieMo]

I'm not sure why one would pull an impeller if you are planning to replace it in the spring anyways,. All you will do is let all that nice antifreeze drain inside your engine bay.

[sandm]

some winterization procedures recommend storing the impeller in vaseline/petro jelly in a bag to keep it from drying up.

[chpthril]

id question any source that stated to put a rubber or synthetic impeller in a petroleum based grease.

I understand the theory of removing and storing, but personally, I think its not worth the work given the recommended service interval.

[sandm]

100% agree with Chp on this one.
but have been criticized by some on it.

[JohnnieMo]

some winterization procedures recommend storing the impeller in vaseline/petro jelly in a bag to keep it from drying up.

I hose mine down with silicone lube and put in in a ziploc bag. Granted I only keep it as a spare. I change to a new one every season. Silicone lube is excellent for maintaining rubber. I use it on door seals too.

[Aspidaso]

2013 Z3 343 PMC

Can I just drain the block and manifolds or is it necessary to pump antifreeze through the block?

In Ohio here... we will get frozen!

I will put a 5 gallon container in starboard locker, fill with water, leave garden hose running into container (I use a plastic storage container) ill have the intake hose disconnected from the he thru hull pickup, drop the hose in the container, stabil in tank (if I forgot to do this on last lake day) and start and let boat run until thermostat opens up, kink hose and suck rest of water from container.

insert garden hose into intake hose and fill up the container with 4-5 gallons of RV AF, pull garden hose and let intake hose suck up all the AF and ensure its spitting pink out the exhaust.

Shut motor down, dump some AF down the intake hose

Now the engine is hot and I will drain oil overnight, new oil and new filter next day.

Boat into garage, work light into bilge and plugged in. Tender on batteries.

Spring ill change impeller, pull boat out and pretty much repeat the process with the plastic container I like sucking the water up with the intake hose to give a warm and fuzzy that the impeller is working. Run till thermo opens, check oil pressure look for leaks, make sure batteries are charging etc etc.

All in all part one only takes an hour or 2. Hindsight it might just be easier and cheaper if I just drain the water, scared I wont get it all out.

I do pull all the seats, clean and store them inside the house, even pull the bolted in ones, gives me a chance to fix stripped screw holes, clean on the crevices get some wax in areas that never get it during the season, easy to do projects, rewire etc etc.... nothing like letting a screwdriver get away and putting a nice little puncture in a seat or getting compounding grit on them.

This is on a older boat 2004 22v which we absolutely LOVE!

[Jetdriver]

Air won’t crack a block. Whether or not you use antifreeze is just personal preference and added security or for people that aren’t sure they did an adequate job of draining the system. I personally don’t use antifreeze as I like to leave the plugs out and remove the impeller which I keep as a spare and replace with a new one in the spring. I like to use a shop vac to put some suction on the various components I’m draining. You’d be surprised how much extra water this gets out of various drains. I live in Colorado and although it gets really cold at times the air is very dry here so winter storage allows a pretty thorough drying of everything when left open and exposed to ambient atmosphere.
Bottom line it comes down to how much confidence you have in the job you’ve done. If you’re not sure it may be a job best left to a shop. That said, anyone that can read, follow directions, and turn a wrench can winterize and change fluids themselves at a substantial saving and have the piece of mind knowing exactly what was done to their boat.

[chpthril]

100% agree with Chp on this one.
but have been criticized by some on it.

Not ragging on anyone for removing and storing the impeller, just dont personally thinks its worth it.

My concern and strong disagreement, is with the use of a petroleum based product on it. being a fresh water pump, these impeller may not be made with petro-tolerant materials. They could swell and/or break down.

I like to caution introducing the A/F into a block still filled with water. Most of the A/F will just get pushed to the exhaust. The rest mixes with the water, thus diluting and raising the freeze point. The marine/rv antifreeze is best when used at 100%. Its not like care coolant/antifreeze that is designed for a 50/50