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    Taps 2 Problems

    I have read through all the threads about taps gauges not working. I see people recommending to pull wires off back of gauge and test resistance. Here is my scenario.

    Taps plate moves up and down as it should but the gauge doesn't work. It will intermittently "catch" but most of the time doesn't work. I have a Bennett actuator with the electronic control unit. People have suggested it's the actuator. Since it extents and retracts as it should, I don't think that is my problem. I'm pretty sure the actuator itself doesn't send any feedback on position as there are no wires going to it, just the little black hydraulic cable.

    My gauge doesn't look like the ones on the posts I've read. Mine has a 5 pin harness with four wires that plugs into it. Mine is not a Faria. It is a Medallion. See photos below.

    Question is can I test the resistance on the harness by unplugging it from the gauge? If so does anybody know which to wires to test resistance with?

    Thanks,

    Jetter

    20170704_152053.jpg
    20170704_152100.jpg
    20170704_152116.jpg
    Last edited by Jetter; 07-05-2017, 04:00 AM.
    2008 Tige Z1 Limited Ronix Edition
    360 hp, Fly High ballast, Alpine, JL Audio, Kicker, Wetsounds audio

    #2
    I'm having the same problem on 2013 R20, trim tab works perfectly fine however the gauge stopped working. I have tried unplugging then plugging it back in with the boat turned to the ON position and it does sweep right to 8 then left to 1. The boat only has 82 hours and unfortunately out of warranty, this happened over the weekend I will try giving the dealer a call later on today.

    Comment


      #3
      I added ATF to the reservoir and gauge seems to be working more frequently now. I'm gonna fill it totally full today and see if anything changes.

      Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Tapatalk
      2008 Tige Z1 Limited Ronix Edition
      360 hp, Fly High ballast, Alpine, JL Audio, Kicker, Wetsounds audio

      Comment


        #4
        Hi Mate, how did you go with the sender issues??

        Comment


          #5
          Adding fluid solved nothing. I still have no way of knowing whether it is the gauge or the unit that is sending signal to the gauge. My taps is also getting "stuck" more frequently now. Might be time to replace it.
          2008 Tige Z1 Limited Ronix Edition
          360 hp, Fly High ballast, Alpine, JL Audio, Kicker, Wetsounds audio

          Comment


            #6
            The sender is internal to the actuator on a Bennett. Is your plate getting stuck moving in both directions or just on one?? If just one I would suspect the solenoid on you pump.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by freeheel4life View Post
              The sender is internal to the actuator on a Bennett. Is your plate getting stuck moving in both directions or just on one?? If just one I would suspect the solenoid on you pump.
              It only gets stuck going back up after being put down. Is the solenoid something that can be serviced or replaced without having to replace the whole motor unit?
              2008 Tige Z1 Limited Ronix Edition
              360 hp, Fly High ballast, Alpine, JL Audio, Kicker, Wetsounds audio

              Comment


                #8
                https://bennetttrimtabs.com/products-list/#wJXojTLR
                This is the link to parts diagram it's part 9 in drawing. Most likely you will be ordering green wire solenoid. Pull protective cover off of pump unit and take a look. Been a while since I changed one but it just unthreads from pump. Honestly cant remember if any fun parts come flying out but believe it's simply a magnet and ball that screws into a hole. When energized solenoid pulls ball up... Will have some fluid come out as well.
                http://www.sailsmarine.com/ItemDetail.aspx?c=34186&l=g
                Believe this is the part.
                Last edited by freeheel4life; 08-31-2017, 02:09 AM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  There is a "trim tab module" under the dash attached to the gauge harness. Its about .5"x1.5"x3". Check for power (white/red wire) ground (grey/black). Then check across both "trim input" wires. If 240 ohms, coil and wiring is good in the actuator. Most likely the trim tab module is bad in this scenario.

                  If 1.1ohms, wires are crossed somewhere on the green wire set going from the TTM to the actuator. If OL on the meter across the two wires, the coil in the actuator is bad or the wire is disconnection. If OL, cut the wires near the actuator, twist them together. You should now get 1.1ohms at the trim tab module. If not, the wire is cut somewhere along the path.

                  I hope this helps you.
                  Oh Yeah!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks KoolAid and others who have replied. I spend two good hours trying to figure stuff out today and if you don't mind I need further explanation. To make things clear my plate goes up and down perfectly. The gauge shows no movement whatsoever.

                    I have a single taps plate with a Bennett actuator and Bennett hydraulic motor. EDIT ** I have found the wire coming from the actuator! - my bad **. The motor unit has four wires going into it. My understanding is they are:
                    green - power to the valve
                    black - ground
                    yellow - power to motor to run one direction
                    blue - power to motor to run the other direction
                    20180807_153502.jpg
                    There is nothing to indicate piston position coming from the actuator or the hydraulic motor unit. Is that correct?

                    So after exploring around the maze of wires under my dash I discovered this trim tab controller. I tested the power and the ground contacts and there is 12v. I tested resistance across the A and B and get 0.00. The thing is the taps plate still works perfectly when this module is completely unplugged. So I am making the assumption this tab is at least partly responsible for sending something to my gauge. Should I replace this unit? Could it be my culprit?
                    20180807_163416.jpg

                    I followed the wires coming from the hydraulic motor (the blue, yellow, green and black) under the dash and they go into this small black block. I'm assuming this is where the power is coming from to send back to the motor.
                    20180807_163429.jpg

                    I have followed the wires from the gauge and I believe they go into the main computer box where a host of other wires go into. I believe the trim module also goes into there but am not 100% sure.

                    Any advice in helping me getting this gauge going would be appreciated. Should I but a new trim tab module?
                    Last edited by Jetter; 08-09-2018, 04:27 PM.
                    2008 Tige Z1 Limited Ronix Edition
                    360 hp, Fly High ballast, Alpine, JL Audio, Kicker, Wetsounds audio

                    Comment


                      #11
                      ** EDIT - I did indeed order the wrong actuator. I did not realize there is a specific Bennett actuator manufactured for TIGE with a special part number. It is not available on the web. See post below. **

                      Well now I am completely baffled! I ordered a replacement actuator awhile ago but never did install it. As I reported previously, the old actuator still goes up and down properly. I was convinced there is nothing sending back from the actuator because there are no wires in the new one. See this photo:
                      20180808_101910.jpg

                      Then today I examine the back of my boat more closely and I see a green wire that goes into the back of the existing actuator! I traced it and it does indeed go all the way back to the helm where it appears to actually be two tiny gauge green wires inside a thicker green shell. They split off and head into the Medallion computer I think.

                      Here is a photo of my existing actuator partially removed. Question is (I'm hoping for KoolAid expertise here) is what is the wire going into? Is this the "coil" you were speaking of? Why is it not on new actuator or did I buy wrong one?

                      20180808_101905.jpg
                      Last edited by Jetter; 08-09-2018, 04:29 PM.
                      2008 Tige Z1 Limited Ronix Edition
                      360 hp, Fly High ballast, Alpine, JL Audio, Kicker, Wetsounds audio

                      Comment


                        #12
                        When i replaced my actuator it came with new wires coming out of it. I dont remember the color or how many but they where there. When i talked to bennet they told me there is a sender unit in the actuator body that tells the gauge how far extended or retracted the arm is. They where very helpful when i talked to them on the phone and even warrantied one of my parts out. It would appear you got the wrong actuator? Give them a call.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Ok I think I have surmised it is my actuator which needs replacing. Local Tige dealer with wants $270 for new one! I called Tige and they gave me a part number A1550. I am going to call Bennett tomorrow to see if the part number mentioned on these forums is the same part. That being Bennett part # SA4015CSRC .

                          Can anyone confirm these are the same actuator? If anyone who has replaced one could please let me know where you got it and a reasonable price? Bennett won't sell one direct. Any suggestions appreciated. I will try West Marine in the morning as they have to call Bennett themselves to get a price.
                          Last edited by Jetter; 08-08-2018, 10:25 PM.
                          2008 Tige Z1 Limited Ronix Edition
                          360 hp, Fly High ballast, Alpine, JL Audio, Kicker, Wetsounds audio

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Update:

                            I spoke to Bennett directly this morning. I did indeed order the wrong actuator in the first place. The part number listed on several other posts was correct (SA4015CSRC) but has now been replaced with Bennett part number TIGSA4015C. You will notice the SRC missing off the back. This simply means there are notches in the bottom hinge to make room for the rivets on the Taps plate itself. The guy at Bennett told me to just take the bottom hinge connector off my old actuator. The retail on this actuator is $163.10 so anything less than that is not a bad deal. I am waiting on West Marine for a price and will post when I get it.

                            I will post again when get this thing and get it in my boat. Hopefully that needle moves!
                            2008 Tige Z1 Limited Ronix Edition
                            360 hp, Fly High ballast, Alpine, JL Audio, Kicker, Wetsounds audio

                            Comment


                              #15
                              would this be helpful?

                              https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...rd+%28Green%29

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