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2011 Tige RZ2 bent strake

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    #1

    2011 Tige RZ2 bent strake

    We took the RZ2, we just purchased, out on the water today. The big question I have is about the strakes. When we took it out of the water, I noticed the last strake was bent. Once we got back to the storage facility, I crawled under the boat to take a look at it. I realized those strakes are probably too strong to be bent, and this must be the actual design. If that is the case, why is that last straw bent? If not...geez...what could be hit to bend one of those things?

    Also, wondering about the batteries. I assume we should leave the batteries in the "ON" position, not the combined position? We were told, when it was purchase, but not remembering, now.

    We also found the USB jack for the Clarion head unit did not charge the phone. Is that everyone else's experience? Probably due for an upgrade, but was a little bummed our phone battery was draining, while we were playing it.
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    #2
    Yes, main battery switch to ON for regular use, OFF for when boat is put away and COMBINE for emergency start.

    Tracking fins? They should all be in a perfect line and perpendicular to the hull. if not, one is bent.

    What model head-unit? That USB is connected solely to the head unit and does not integrate with the boat at all. Not sure if its designed to charge, but I have a feeling it isnt.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      I'll look at the Clarion model next time we are out. We put a new Kenwood unit in our old boat, and the USB port would charge our phones.

      That sucks, on the tracking fin. Just bought this thing, and cannot believe I didn't see it when looking it over.
      Last edited by supervol0509; 04-25-2016, 01:31 AM.

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        #4
        Bent tracking fins are not all that uncommon. I'll be replacing one soon. I was quoted $200 from the dealer. I got one for $122 shipped to my door from Elbert's.

        http://www.elberts.com/underwatergear.htm
        You'll get your chance, smart guy.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by chpthril View Post
          Yes, main battery switch to ON for regular use, OFF for when boat is put away and COMBINE for emergency start.

          Tracking fins? They should all be in a perfect line and perpendicular to the hull. if not, one is bent.

          What model head-unit? That USB is connected solely to the head unit and does not integrate with the boat at all. Not sure if its designed to charge, but I have a feeling it isnt.
          Per your comment chpthril. I do have an on board charger so maybe different. If the boat is moving I normally have it on combine to charge both batteries. If we are just floating I turn it to 1 or on. I could be doing it wrong am I?

          Comment

            #6
            Also confirm you are using a cable that charges when plugged into a regular charger. There are "data only" cables out there that can fool you.

            Then, as ChpThril points out, the USB port may not be designed to charge. It's almost certain to provide power (so you can plug in a USB stick with music on it), but modern phones - Apple devices are especially picky - expect a power source to comply with the USB charging spec and sometimes even something psuedo-proprietary (hello again, Apple! ). You'd think USB would keep things simple, right? HA! There's an entire hardware AND software protocol about how the device informs the host of how much current it wants, the host informs the device of how much current it can source, the two agree on a current level, etc. For supposedly being a straightforward replacement for old RS-232C serial connections, USB has definitely become a case of creeping featurism and its power spec is a glaring example. There are entire integrated circuits that do nothing but implement the (latest) USB charging protocol. It's crazy.

            Sorry to ramble, it's a sore topic around here. Back to the point: Use a cable you KNOW works on a standard non-proprietary charger, and see if that helps.

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by NICKYPOO View Post
              Bent tracking fins are not all that uncommon. I'll be replacing one soon. I was quoted $200 from the dealer. I got one for $122 shipped to my door from Elbert's.

              http://www.elberts.com/underwatergear.htm
              $200 for the part from the dealer? It looks like it is just one of them, but I need to check things closer, next weekend.

              Do you know if I have to get in the hull to remove the old fin, or can I do everything from below? I know I have to debond the old fin. I read another thread Thad said removal and replacement of all fins is a day's work. If that is the case, removal must be a lot more than meets the eye. Also, if I do need to get in the hull, on my model the entire floor and back seat raises up, from what I've been told. Let me know if you know any details of this.

              I am going to contact the dealer about this. I don't have high hopes, though.

              Thanks.

              Comment

                #8
                At least on our boat, you have to remove hardware from inside the hull. Our fuel tank has vertical access holes through it that allow you to reach the fin hardware without removing the tank. Still a challenging job, I'd say. Definitely allow several hours for removing the hardware, releasing the 3M 5200 they likely used when installing the fin, cleaning up the hull, installing the new fin, installing the new hardware (use LocTite!), etc. Worth doing it right the first time given its inconvenient access location.

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                  #9
                  I would add a universal blue tooth and then wire in a USB charge port.
                  Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Originally posted by IDBoating View Post
                    At least on our boat, you have to remove hardware from inside the hull. Our fuel tank has vertical access holes through it that allow you to reach the fin hardware without removing the tank. Still a challenging job, I'd say. Definitely allow several hours for removing the hardware, releasing the 3M 5200 they likely used when installing the fin, cleaning up the hull, installing the new fin, installing the new hardware (use LocTite!), etc. Worth doing it right the first time given its inconvenient access location.
                    Do you have to debond from inside the hull, outside the hull, or both? What is to clean up in the hull? Would like to make sure and do it right.
                    Last edited by supervol0509; 04-26-2016, 01:26 AM.

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by supervol0509 View Post
                      $200 for the part from the dealer? It looks like it is just one of them, but I need to check things closer, next weekend.

                      Do you know if I have to get in the hull to remove the old fin, or can I do everything from below? I know I have to debond the old fin. I read another thread Thad said removal and replacement of all fins is a day's work. If that is the case, removal must be a lot more than meets the eye. Also, if I do need to get in the hull, on my model the entire floor and back seat raises up, from what I've been told. Let me know if you know any details of this.

                      I am going to contact the dealer about this. I don't have high hopes, though.

                      Thanks.
                      Don't exactly know on your boat. ID's boat is similar in age to yours I'm guessing. I've never done one before and I will be doing it on an '01 21v. Hopefully lee will see this and shed some light.
                      You'll get your chance, smart guy.

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Originally posted by NICKYPOO View Post
                        Don't exactly know on your boat. ID's boat is similar in age to yours I'm guessing. I've never done one before and I will be doing it on an '01 21v. Hopefully lee will see this and shed some light.
                        This thread implies some older ones might be lag bolted or bolted without nuts.
                        http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...ber-to-replace
                        Mods: MLA BIG Ballast System (1800+ Custom sacs, 2 500 W705 sacs under bow), Duffy Surf Flap Mod, Trimmed Swim Deck, Top-Mount Starter

                        Comment

                          #13
                          I am going to check for any damage to the other fins, gelcoat damage, and bent strut, prop shaft or rudder. Let me know if there are any suggestions. I am pretty sure all is just a visual inspection, other than possibly strut. Should I get feeler gauges to determine if the prop shaft is brush in the strut, or can you visually see the space between the two?

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Originally posted by supervol0509 View Post
                            Do you have to debond from inside the hull, outside the hull, or both? What is to clean up in the hull? Would like to make sure and do it right.
                            Just unbolt from the outside, remove the old adhesive and reinstall the new one with some 3M 4000.

                            Comment

                              #15
                              Originally posted by lee View Post
                              Just unbolt from the outside, remove the old adhesive and reinstall the new one with some 3M 4000.
                              Is there no internal hardware, for removal of the fin, on a 2011 RZ2?

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