Posed the question back in October or so, gathered a lot of information, eventually said screw it and executed the plan. I had a nonfunctional Faria Commander speedo, a paddlewheel that tested to be malfunctioning, and a Speed Set pad that did not work because of all this. Previous owner decided not to inform me of this on purchase......which was nice.
So what do you do? Rip out the whole system. Thank you to Dom et al for the advice and thoughts on how to do this.
I purchased a Morse MV-3 style cable controller that has both shift and throttle cables exit toward the front of the boat. The shift cable hooked up easily, then I purchased a Teleflex Xtreme throttle cable and routed it right alongside the shift cable enroute to the engine compartment. The control required a little modification of the interior panel for mounting, but all in all it was quite simple with a scrap piece of starboard to serve as a mount. Even with terrible upholstering skills, it looks decent. I even used the Tige shift knob (not in picture). Morse controller was $215, the cable was $45.
IMG_4853.jpgIMG_4854.jpgIMG_4855.jpg
Next I mounted the new potentiometer (PPS) on the support rail back in the engine compartment. I purchased this from Marine Power for $195 on website. I verified with Dom and the guys at MP that indeed it is a compatible potentiometer, and uses the same voltages as the one that is mounted directly to the back of the special teleflex control lever assembly that comes on our boats. It took a little bit of fiddling to get the throws correct so that no throttle increase occurred before the tranny was shifted completely into gear for both forward and reverse. Really quite easy with the adjustments available.
IMG_4986.jpg
Now a little bit of wiring. I clippped the plug from the harness that used to plug into the helm potentiometer, and likewise clipped the corresponding plug that goes into the TAC module mounted on the forward engine compartment wall. I used wiring diagrams of the system to verify that this was where this harness ended up. It was plain to see with the diagrams. I used spare wire and became a pretty proficient solder-er as I made a new jumper harness.
IMG_4861.jpgIMG_4862.jpg
I then wrapped the whole thing in F4 tape to make it pretty and durable.
IMG_4969.jpg
I plugged it in, and fired the boat quickly and it worked fine.
So at this point, I have an old school cable actuated throttle assembly in a 2006 24Ve with the MP 340. From this point, any traditional speed control system should be compatible. I decided on the Hydrophase RideSteady system. It has a few more bells and whistles than the Perfect Pass equivalent, so I went for it. I discovered that in order to create more room for the servo motor, control cable and create space for free movement and operation, I had to move the bracket and potentiometer to the port side engine compartment brace and loop the throttle cable around. Really an easy adjustment that created a smoother install with less clutter.
IMG_5016.jpg
Finally, since the speedo is not necessary with this toy, I mounted the Hydrophase unit directly into the speedo hole. Wiring was simple, and the system fired up flawlessly right away. It is really really elegant. I am pleased initially with how it acts.
Now I simply wait for ice to melt to I can test this whole getup out on the water. Thank you to all who contributed thought toward this--and anyone with a 2006 that thinks they are stuck, that may not be the case. I have a bit less than $1600 into this whole conversion--and that includes the $1200 Hydrophase unit. All in all in my mind a great price point for dismissing speedset, paddlewheels (I don't boat on a river, but the Hydrophase unit can add a paddlewheel additionally for $200 if I need one), blown pads, and now have tenth of an MPH adjustability, precise control, overshoot adjustment and many many more fancy features at my fingertips. I couldn't be more pleased!
So what do you do? Rip out the whole system. Thank you to Dom et al for the advice and thoughts on how to do this.
I purchased a Morse MV-3 style cable controller that has both shift and throttle cables exit toward the front of the boat. The shift cable hooked up easily, then I purchased a Teleflex Xtreme throttle cable and routed it right alongside the shift cable enroute to the engine compartment. The control required a little modification of the interior panel for mounting, but all in all it was quite simple with a scrap piece of starboard to serve as a mount. Even with terrible upholstering skills, it looks decent. I even used the Tige shift knob (not in picture). Morse controller was $215, the cable was $45.
IMG_4853.jpgIMG_4854.jpgIMG_4855.jpg
Next I mounted the new potentiometer (PPS) on the support rail back in the engine compartment. I purchased this from Marine Power for $195 on website. I verified with Dom and the guys at MP that indeed it is a compatible potentiometer, and uses the same voltages as the one that is mounted directly to the back of the special teleflex control lever assembly that comes on our boats. It took a little bit of fiddling to get the throws correct so that no throttle increase occurred before the tranny was shifted completely into gear for both forward and reverse. Really quite easy with the adjustments available.
IMG_4986.jpg
Now a little bit of wiring. I clippped the plug from the harness that used to plug into the helm potentiometer, and likewise clipped the corresponding plug that goes into the TAC module mounted on the forward engine compartment wall. I used wiring diagrams of the system to verify that this was where this harness ended up. It was plain to see with the diagrams. I used spare wire and became a pretty proficient solder-er as I made a new jumper harness.
IMG_4861.jpgIMG_4862.jpg
I then wrapped the whole thing in F4 tape to make it pretty and durable.
IMG_4969.jpg
I plugged it in, and fired the boat quickly and it worked fine.
So at this point, I have an old school cable actuated throttle assembly in a 2006 24Ve with the MP 340. From this point, any traditional speed control system should be compatible. I decided on the Hydrophase RideSteady system. It has a few more bells and whistles than the Perfect Pass equivalent, so I went for it. I discovered that in order to create more room for the servo motor, control cable and create space for free movement and operation, I had to move the bracket and potentiometer to the port side engine compartment brace and loop the throttle cable around. Really an easy adjustment that created a smoother install with less clutter.
IMG_5016.jpg
Finally, since the speedo is not necessary with this toy, I mounted the Hydrophase unit directly into the speedo hole. Wiring was simple, and the system fired up flawlessly right away. It is really really elegant. I am pleased initially with how it acts.
Now I simply wait for ice to melt to I can test this whole getup out on the water. Thank you to all who contributed thought toward this--and anyone with a 2006 that thinks they are stuck, that may not be the case. I have a bit less than $1600 into this whole conversion--and that includes the $1200 Hydrophase unit. All in all in my mind a great price point for dismissing speedset, paddlewheels (I don't boat on a river, but the Hydrophase unit can add a paddlewheel additionally for $200 if I need one), blown pads, and now have tenth of an MPH adjustability, precise control, overshoot adjustment and many many more fancy features at my fingertips. I couldn't be more pleased!
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