No Tige Surf 'System'

[chpthril]

We use 1100 rules and 1 1/8 inch hose. Our huge sacks with the hard tanks fill in 9 mins with just the one pump. That seems pretty acceptable to me. I am thinking Tige's stock pumps since 2013.5 or so should be the same? Or are the rules better somehow? I got the rules because I heard of reliability and because I liked the way they were built, thinking it would have better priming. I have never had any more priming issues, but I think that is more because at the same time we found the issue with front priming and fixed it. So I am not sure if the rules are really better or not, but I do like the way they are made better.

Tige uses the Attwood t1200. Ironically, the Rule is slightly faster in rear world setups, although its counted in seconds on a 400 lb sac.

[IDBoating]

What out there is faster than the 1200 Tsunami's?

I have four of these 1600GPH's on my boat for primary fill and drain:

...and Duffy here uses these 3800GPH's I believe:

...so you have a LONG way to go beyond Tsunami's!

[shawndoggy]

my bad.... didn't realize we're talking about x-link between plug and play bags. I thought we're just talking about bags with dedicated pumps on them. I see your point. In my scenario I've just got an impeller pump to each 1100 in the locker and an impeller pump between the two. the xover pump cut my fill times in half. 5-6 minutes for an 1100 is a very reasonable fill time.

[duffymahoney]

Yep I use the 3800's. I don't recall the exact fill and drain times but it's fast

[Dandy]

Keep in mind, we are talking about a boat that has a 30 gallon tank under the floor, that fills first. Then, in order to get 4-5 inches of water in a custom sac thats roughly 22"W x 100"L, you are talking another 47 gallons. So thats roughly 4 minutes of waiting, until the transfer pump will be activated. If there was a 2nd 1200 fill pump, you would already have 154 gallons, or 1300 lbs, of ballast in that side, before the transfer pump moved one oz. And this is only 2 pumps running with a combined current draw of about 9A.

Thanks to mnpracing and chpthril we had some guidance and set our Z1 up with dual fill and drains on the rear along with a crossover pump. I never got around to plumbing in the 2nd fill but used a portable pump (still dual fill). Truth be told, I felt the dual fill/drain was fast enough. Adding the crossover pump due to the extra amp draw is a bit of a pain. I think that if Tige set the rears up with dual fill/drain most people would be pleased with the results. The transfer pump would most likely add a significant cost from the factory. I feel if they set up with dual fill/drain, X-vent/drain and an extra port on each sac to allow a client to plumb in their own transfer pump would be a great option.

[mnpracing]

We use 1100 rules and 1 1/8 inch hose. Our huge sacks with the hard tanks fill in 9 mins with just the one pump. That seems pretty acceptable to me. I am thinking Tige's stock pumps since 2013.5 or so should be the same? Or are the rules better somehow? I got the rules because I heard of reliability and because I liked the way they were built, thinking it would have better priming. I have never had any more priming issues, but I think that is more because at the same time we found the issue with front priming and fixed it. So I am not sure if the rules are really better or not, but I do like the way they are made better.

Over the years, I've found less priming issues with the Rule 1100's. Also, the body with the outlet port can be turned independent of the inlet port, so installation is a bit easier because you can tighten the pump to the inlet as tight as you need to then rotate the body so that the outlet is where you need it.

[IDBoating]

BTW, my crosspumps are aerator pumps. One each side, right behind the sac they draw from to insure priming, pumping sideways to and then up and into the top of the opposite stern sac. Works great and, as noted above, cuts fill, switch, and drain time about in half because you are able to use the fill/drain pumps from both sides to act on a single side's fat sac.

[Duncan]

BTW, my crosspumps are aerator pumps. One each side, right behind the sac they draw from to insure priming, pumping sideways to and then up and into the top of the opposite stern sac. Works great and, as noted above, cuts fill, switch, and drain time about in half because you are able to use the fill/drain pumps from both sides to act on a single side's fat sac.

Do you control everything with switches?

Also, can you modify an existing sack with a new inlet/outlet? I guess for cross pumps, you would need a top inlet and bottom outelt for each sack (but the questions remains).

[Dandy]

Fitting can be added to a ballast sack and is not as difficult as I expected - granted I had help, encouragement and a good set of directions from chpthril .

Below is a link to a ballast upgrade where chpthril shares some of the instruction (post #13)
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...446#post467446

If working with Mike (chpthril), he also has a well laid out document with slightly more direction that he may share with you. I followed his direction, cut the hole, added the fitting with sealant, let it cure, hooked everything up and to my surpise it all worked.

If adding a crossover pump, yes - you need to draw from the bottom of the one sac and ideally input to the top of the other. The impeller pumps could push into the bottom, but any pressure it needs to pump against will reduct the total time to fill.

[Duncan]

... If working with Mike (chpthril) ...

I have worked with Chpthril for all my ballast stuff

[Stingreye]

Mike talked me out of an aerator cross pump and into a reversible pump. His kit included a rocker switch and his killer customer service

If you just go bag to bag, the reversible cross pump hose runs are VERY easy.

I made it messier by adding a Y valve so I could have a hose to fill extra bags on the seat when I am running a small crew.

A side benefit:
1) You can completely drain the big sac pancake thin with the reversible by draining it into the other sac.
2) Then I turn the Y valve and drain the water left in that sac over the side and that sac gets pancake thin

I am tempted at some point to add a reversible for my bow sacs so they can drain completely.

Basically, I love my cross-pump setup from Mike. VERY happy with it. It speeds it up/drains better/fill my extra sacs etc.

[chpthril]

I have worked with Chpthril for all my ballast stuff

Yes, we can add a port.

[IDBoating]

Do you control everything with switches?

I was controlling everything with switches - but now I'm doing something else. More on that very soon.

When it was switches, though, I installed an extra rocker switch mounted sideways so it was very clear to the operator which way the water was flowing. A standard "fill-off-drain" switch mounted sideways would have looked silly, so I used a water resistant black rocker. It looked great and worked great.

Also, can you modify an existing sack with a new inlet/outlet? I guess for cross pumps, you would need a top inlet and bottom outelt for each sack (but the questions remains).

Yes, and there are threads here on doing exactly that. I know ChpThril has guided people through the process, you should work with him if that's what you want to do. In my case, Jason at WakeMakers (I didn't know Mike/ChpThril very well at the time) helped me order my custom Fly High fat sacs and he convinced me to add all sorts of extra ports everywhere. I thought it was a trifle excessive at the time, but I've used every single one! Jason, like Mike, is another great resource but I've only seen Mike guide people through adding ports to existing bags.

[JohnnieMo]

This may be getting further down the rabbit hole, but why can't you use the existing drain pumps and just add a diverter valve to fire the water into the opposite sack, rather than back out in to the lake? I think electrically controlled diverters exist.

This would save the cost if buying two more pumps.

Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk

[chpthril]

This may be getting further down the rabbit hole, but why can't you use the existing drain pumps and just add a diverter valve to fire the water into the opposite sack, rather than back out in to the lake? I think electrically controlled diverters exist.

This would save the cost if buying two more pumps.

Sent from my Z10 using Tapatalk

A manual diverter would not be accessible at all, so that would leave you to an electric. It would require an electric valve per side. At the end of the day, im not sure a quality reliable electric, would be much of a savings compared to a single reversible that we use for our transfer pumps.