Bilge pump replacement

[Gwyn]

Looking for a bit of advice
I have an 08 RZ4, the bilge is working in manual but not automatically, its a rulemate 500.
I found a replacement rulemate 500 (oval shaped) but its twice the size, also found a automatic rule 500 (circular shaped) which is similar size, as shown, below, no float switch

I have stripped the old pump down and cleaned it, but still didnt work on auto. Few issues that I wanted a bit of advice on are :

The existing pump is behind the engine, real awkward location plus due to the hull shape this is a high point in the hull, if any water is in the hull it washes back and then fore and doesnt get picked up by the bilge, I want to move it to a lower position, between the gear box and the fuel tank, the floor is removable so its easy access and water sits here

Can I screw the new pump into the hull (short screws) at this location or should I glue it in

Where is the in-line fuse on the bilge pump? the wiring disappears under the bulkhead behind the ballast tanks and I have no idea where it goes?

I am planning to joint the wiring at this location and run it to the new pump location and same with the hose?

any thoughts or help would be appreciated?

This has come about as I am taking on a bit of water, I am in the process of checking, tightening all the through hull connections and intakes to resolve this at the moment

[skippabcool]

The inline fuse for the bilge pump, the automatic wire, comes straight from the battery. The fuse should be within inches of the battery.

AS you mentioned, I would figure out where the water is coming from. When you say that you are taking on quite a bit of water is it filling up the bilge area or is it only down in the keel?

[M&M]

Reply to bilge pump

Hi: I would not worry about screwing or gluing the new pump down. The hoses will hold it in place pretty good. It will work ok. Splice where it is easy to get to. M&M

[chpthril]

Like Skip stated, confirm the the pump is getting the constant B+ before condemning it. The auto bilge will not work without that B+.

[Gwyn]

Water is down in the keel, but fills back to the front of the gearbox, we are on the sea we take a bit more in, but I think I have a small leak somewhere, just doing trial and error at the moment.
Will have a look for the wire and fuse before I change
Thanks for the help
Will let you know how I get on

[Joeprunc]

Is your packing gland leaking? It seems like most drive shafts need to be repacked after 3 years or so. Or did Tige use the dripless packing gland?

[talltigeguy]

I have heard of guys gluing it down without a problem, but not sure how many years that they have watched it for now.

I would think a big clump on a roughed up patch of fiberglass would be pretty tough and water resistant. I would wonder if using 3M 5200 would be the ticket.

[Ewok]

Most boats I have seen use a piece of wood glued to the bottom of the boat and the pump is screwed into the wood. Newer boats probably use a piece of starboard glued to the hull and the pumps are screwed into the board.

If you keep your boat in the sea you should really look at upgrading the bilge pump, 500gph is very slow. I'll look around but I saw a recommendation list once on the size of the boat vs bilge pump flow rate. Anyway, if it was my boat I would get at least a 1000-1500 gph pump.

[Duncan]

If you keep your boat in the sea you should really look at upgrading the bilge pump, 500gph is very slow. I'll look around but I saw a recommendation list once on the size of the boat vs bilge pump flow rate. Anyway, if it was my boat I would get at least a 1000-1500 gph pump.

This older thread has a link to a great bilge article. The length/capacity chart from that article is reproduced (poorly) below.

I upgraded the stock bilge to 1200gph and added two more 1200gph bilges, one in each corner (for surf ballast lean). Overkill? Yes. But I grew up on sea worthy boats, which wakeboarding boats are not. Imhop, open low bow is an invitation for sinking if caught in 3+ ft swells.

Boat Length / No. Pumps / Total Capacity - GPH

16 - 20 / 2 / 2500
21 - 26 / 2 / 3000 - 3500
27 - 35 / 3 / 3500 - 4500
36 - 42 / 3 / 6000
43 - 49 / 3 - 4 / 8000
50 - 59 / 4 - 5 / 9000 - 10,000
60 - 60 / 4 - 5 / 10,000+

[talltigeguy]

This older thread has a link to a great bilge article. The length/capacity chart from that article is reproduced (poorly) below.

I upgraded the stock bilge to 1200gph and added two more 1200gph bilges, one in each corner (for surf ballast lean). Overkill? Yes. But I grew up on sea worthy boats, which wakeboarding boats are not. Imhop, open low bow is an invitation for sinking if caught in 3+ ft swells.

Boat Length / No. Pumps / Total Capacity - GPH

16 - 20 / 2 / 2500
21 - 26 / 2 / 3000 - 3500
27 - 35 / 3 / 3500 - 4500
36 - 42 / 3 / 6000
43 - 49 / 3 - 4 / 8000
50 - 59 / 4 - 5 / 9000 - 10,000
60 - 60 / 4 - 5 / 10,000+

For fun...It might be worth noting that my Malibu 247 only has one bilge pump in the back. My X45 had 2 of them...and they both failed the only day I have ever forgotten the plug and then left my boat unattended for 20 minutes. Luckily it wasn't 25 minutes.

[Duncan]

For fun...It might be worth noting that my Malibu 247 only has one bilge pump in the back. My X45 had 2 of them...and they both failed the only day I have ever forgotten the plug and then left my boat unattended for 20 minutes. Luckily it wasn't 25 minutes.

If you only had three ...

Seriously, this thread (and reviewing the old thread) caused me to add testing the auto feature of the bilge pumps to my off-season maintenance list. What good does multiple pumps do if none of them work?

[R&T Babich]

...
Boat Length / No. Pumps / Total Capacity - GPH

16 - 20 / 2 / 2500
21 - 26 / 2 / 3000 - 3500

We bought our boat a few years ago and the stock bilge pump didn't work.
I upgraded to 2 Rule 2000 gph units and added switches in the back to override everything else, just in case.
The second pump is mounted a couple of inches higher and has a beeper.
If the beeper goes I'm starting to dig out a 3rd pump from a storage case.
I setup the 3rd so it can be clipped to a battery, has a long enough hose to lay over the side and can be loaned to another boat that may be having trouble.
Just upgrading the pump may not be enough.
The wiring may need to be upgraded to handle more current.
Also, the stock bilge thru hull fitting was for a 3/4" hose and the larger pumps use a 1 1/8" hose.
I replaced the thru hull fitting and put a second on the other side.
Be sure to run the hose so that it goes above the thru hull and down to the fitting so water can't wash into it.

[Duncan]

Be sure to run the hose so that it goes above the thru hull and down to the fitting so water can't wash into it.

There is a nice diagram of a riser loop in the above linked thread and external article.

[R&T Babich]

There is a nice diagram of a riser loop in the above linked thread and external article.

That is a great diagram and I wanted to emphasize the riser as ours did not have the riser from the factory.

[Gwyn]

Havent checked the packing gland yet, but I think I read its dripless on the 08 RZ4, but can be tightened up? Not sure but will check it out

I keep a 750 pump that I can connect to the battery with clips and a hose over the side as well... just for emergencies !!

I might leave the exisiting pump in as it works on manual, but not sure about the wiring upgrade, if I can joint it and run as a parallel circuit its easy enough, but that might draw too much current ?

The boat is dry berthed and although when we are out it can get a bit choppy the area is quite sheltered, and to be honest if theres a 3 ft swell I doubt we'd be out on the water ! (famous last words)

All good advice though, thanks guys, quite new to Tige and this forum but I have to say its excellent