Cracked Block on my 2004 22V

[thetickandarthur555]

Cracked Block on my 2004 22V
Rocky Mountain winter crept up on me too quick last year. I spent most of the summer replacing the axle on my trailer and then replaced a frost plug and starboard side exhaust manifold with the hope that those were the only repercussions. I was wrong. I took off the intake and heads and saw the block cracked on the port and starboard side much like Vettedrmr showed in his post. Thanks for all the information from those posts!
Question: Marine Power 5.7L Vortec – What are my next steps to get it up and running again? The heads, intake, risers and manifolds look good – the engine was only run for about a minute with the cracked block – the pistons look good as well. I have researched quite a few options for short or long block but I am wondering how to proceed. To save the maximum amount of money I will be trying to do the repairs/replacement on my own.
Thanks,
Brett

[Vettedrmr]

Brett,

First, glad my thread helped you out. Second, IDK how close you are to a machine shop, or what experience you have in engine rebuilds, but you'll spend about as much in parts and machine shop work as you will just getting a short or long block. If you've got skills in this area, you might make it work, but if the heads are good, I'd look into a short block. I'm assuming by "short block", you're looking at a short block for a marine application, not a truck application.

HTH, and have a good one,
Mike

[lee]

I would just purchase a marine long block.

[jmacul2]

I mean I'll probably get roasted for this, but before you go out and buy a new block, you can fix it with marine grade silicone (Right Stuff). The block cooling isn't pressurized. Despite what everyone thinks and that everyone will cringe, it will work. I would never sell it like this obviously. But if you want to get up and running until you eventually buy a new block or just roll with it as is.

See NNKN for an example on how to do this:

https://youtu.be/0kP3DLnlBMU?si=UR5WpN-tEyrT589f&t=1630
https://youtu.be/8raKSI9vZIg?si=uPspdJRunrhz1mbs&t=115

[boatwakes]

Just so there's no REAL misinformation here, engine block cooling systems are pressurized up to 15 psi, raw water or closed loop. Water pressure from the raw water pump and thermostats...

[thetickandarthur555]

Thanks for the replies! I have a friend who has a long block that might work out (also has a camshaft to match up) so I am currently pursuing that option.
BTW I had cracks on both sides, port and starboard, and interior that would be problematic to seal up. But I appreciate any outside of the box thinking!

[Vettedrmr]

That sounds like a promising lead! One thing I'd want to do is keep the rotating assembly & valve train "together". IOW, keep the cam, lifters, pushrods, rocker arms, valves all matched up. Probably want to change out the bearings and get the crank & cam inspected. Now, if the entire LB from your friend is good, then probably wouldn't do any of the above.

Good luck!
Mike

[boatwakes]

The cam specs from your old engine MUST BE THE SAME for the new engine so it runs correctly with the current ECM programming. Replace the lifters, cheap insurance but don't replace anything with inexpensive parts, name brands only.