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    Well, this looks like a disaster...

    <Sigh> Worked on getting our new (to us) '08 22ve ready for going to the lake, and proceeded to change the oil as a part of the dewinterization process. Quick background: we bought this boat last September, and as a part of that process checked the engine oil, which appeared to be clean. Engine was replaced in the spring of '23, and has 5 hours or less run time since then.

    Item 1: the oil is thick, like REALLY thick. I have the paperwork from the engine replacement, and it shows the oil used was "25w-40 marine". It almost feels like gear oil.

    But *this* is Item 2:

    Engine Oil Resized.jpg

    Ok, so there's 3 different reasons in my experience that this can happen:

    1. Blown head gasket
    2. Cracked cylinder head
    3. Cracked engine block

    Another could be some kind of engine oil/water heat exchanger. Do these boats have anything like this, or something else that could introduce water to the oil?

    Thanks in advance, and have a good one,
    Mike

    #2
    They do not have an engine oil cooler (assuming its a 5.7L as not sure on the 6.0L). I use 15w-40 in my engine because of the abuse it gets as a marine engine.

    You are correct in those although there might be a 4th, the exhaust could have a crack internally. A small enough crack can cause oil to weep though the exhaust valve and into the crankcase but not enough for a hydrolock situation.

    Why was the engine originally replaced?

    Comment


      #3
      What engine do you have? Most do not have an engine oil cooler, just one for the transmission fluid.

      Comment


        #4
        Check the middle spark plugs on both sides for water or rust. Water reversion through the exhaust or leaking flange gasket between the mixing elbow and manifold will allow water to be ingested as well.
        Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...

        Comment


          #5
          I can’t wait to hear what was the problem
          Over here in Victoria Australia we are nearly at the end of our skiing season
          Hopefully over Easter I can get the boat out a few times


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

          Comment


            #6
            Sorry for not getting back sooner, been doing more digging and trying to get as much of this goo out of the engine as possible. It took 3 DAYS for this stuff to gravity drain out of the remote hose. I think there may be an obstruction somewhere in the drain line, but since you have to lift the engine to get to the pan fitting, that's not happening.

            I pulled all 8 spark plugs, none look steam cleaned, although there are what could be interpreted as water spots, or just simple humidity, on two of the plugs. I pulled the knock sensors to drain the water out of the block, everything that came out was clean, red, coolant.

            My brother has a borescope, we took a look at the top of the pistons and valves. All the pistons and valves look normal. We pulled the valve covers, and the cover and the top of the valve train has goo all over it, that's going to be cleaned up pronto. Since the oil filter is off, and the plugs are out, we spun the engine over with clean, but slightly used, engine oil (10 minutes in another engine after a rebuild) in the pan. After pumping about 15 seconds, the oil stopped showing signs of goo.

            2025-04-19_14-11-05.jpg
            Next step is manually cleaning the top of the valve train, putting on an oil filter, then cranking the engine over until we get oiling of the rocker arms.

            Originally posted by h2o-ski View Post
            They do not have an engine oil cooler (assuming its a 5.7L as not sure on the 6.0L). I use 15w-40 in my engine because of the abuse it gets as a marine engine.
            Originally posted by h2o-ski View Post
            .
            .
            Why was the engine originally replaced?
            Y'all are correct, no engine oil cooler. That was more of a hope, since boat engines typically run cool (at least in my experience). The original engine was replaced because the previous owners assumed they didn't need to winterize the engine down in N. Dallas. Oops.

            Originally posted by boatwakes View Post
            Check the middle spark plugs on both sides for water or rust. Water reversion through the exhaust or leaking flange gasket between the mixing elbow and manifold will allow water to be ingested as well.
            You have given me the first good reason that this might have happened in the first place. I used a fake-a-lake as part of the winterizing process, and that might have overfilled the exhaust prior to starting the engine. I do have one question: what do you mean by "reversion"?

            Thanks so much for all the comments, and have a good one,
            Mike
            Last edited by Vettedrmr; 04-20-2025, 01:10 PM.

            Comment


              #7
              UPDATE: I spent the afternoon pressurizing the engine with the clean, used oil. Pulled the valve covers and cleaned them and the top of the heads with rags and WD-40. Then I spun the engine over 30 seconds at a time and watched to see if I was getting oil up into the pushrods. Watch for oil or goo to start showing up. Wait 5 minutes for the starter to cool. Repeat as necessary.

              I lost count of how many times I did this, but eventually I got most of the goo flushed out and clean oil coming up over all 16 pushrods & rocker arms. I then did a compression test, and all 8 cylinders came back with readings from 190-200, nicely grouped together.

              This just adds to the list of tests that tell me the engine is OK. Next up is pulling the exhaust manifolds and checking them for leaks (thanks boatwakes ).

              Y'all have a good one,
              Mike
              Last edited by Vettedrmr; 04-22-2025, 06:45 AM.

              Comment


                #8
                Reversion is when water is sucked into the exhaust from the camshaft overlap. Marine camshafts are designed to minimize the amount of reversion for obvious reasons.

                Comment


                  #9
                  UPDATE 2: Decided to postpone the exhaust manifold test, because they're small players if the engine is mortally wounded. So, instead I modified my automotive coolant system pressure tester to plug it into one of the block drains, blocked off the water pump inlet and thermostat housing, filled the cooling system with water, and pressurized it to 15 psi. After 1 hour the pressure had dropped 1 psi. I'm going to wait until tomorrow morning and check the pressure (I fully expect it to bleed off, because the fittings going into the block have no sealant on them.

                  Then I'm going to borescope the cylinders again and see if there's any water in any of the cylinders. Then it's on to the manifolds. I drained both of them: the starboard one had zero coolant in it, the port one had less than a cup. So, I'm thinking they're both broken in some fashion.

                  Thanks for all your help, and have a good one,
                  Mike

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yep, it's a disaster.

                    After 2 weeks of cleaning and testing, I decided to pull the intake manifold, if for no other reason to clean the gunk out of the engine valley, and found some rust stains. Pulled the cylinder heads, and there it was: cracks in the block. Oh, and cracks in both heads.

                    IMG_2106 (1).jpg

                    IMG_2108.jpg

                    IMG_2109.jpg

                    IMG_2113.jpg

                    IMG_2114.jpg
                    I mentioned above that the engine had been replaced in spring '23. That was due to the previous owners not thinking they needed to winterize the boat because they'd moved to the Dallas-Ft. Worth area. As my Dad says, "some people are just slow learners".

                    I made the naive assumption that they learned from their previous mistake and had winterized the boat in the '23-24 winter. Silly me.

                    Next up, get a new long block purchased. Looks like around $6000.

                    Y'all have a good one,
                    Mike

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Sorry to hear that. From your pics I wonder if the block was ever replaced. The reason is that I don't remember a prolonged freeze that could have caused that in the winter of 23-24.

                      If you are up to replacing the engine yourself, I found a place in Texas that sells long blocks at a reasonable price. https://www.mabbcomotors.com/ I have been looking at replacing my engine due to improper long term storage and found them

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by h2o-ski View Post
                        Sorry to hear that. From your pics I wonder if the block was ever replaced. The reason is that I don't remember a prolonged freeze that could have caused that in the winter of 23-24.
                        I think so, if for no other reason that they disclosed that they learned the engine had frozen when it wouldn't turn over.

                        If you are up to replacing the engine yourself, I found a place in Texas that sells long blocks at a reasonable price. https://www.mabbcomotors.com/ I have been looking at replacing my engine due to improper long term storage and found them
                        Thanks, I'll look them up. I've found a replacement at www.marineengines4less.com, but I'll for sure check out Mabbco ASAP.

                        Thanks again, and have a good one,
                        Mike

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Here is a new Marine Power engine. https://marineenginedepot.com/new-57...block-engine-2

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by h2o-ski View Post
                            If you are up to replacing the engine yourself, I found a place in Texas that sells long blocks at a reasonable price. https://www.mabbcomotors.com/ I have been looking at replacing my engine due to improper long term storage and found them
                            Talked to their tech today, sound like competent people. Downside is a 2-3 month wait for your order, so if you can wait until the off-season they'd be great. I don't want to wait that long.

                            Have a good one,
                            Mike

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Mike, it absolutely imperative you use the same camshaft (or find one with the same grind) to ensure the computer is correct and the engine runs correctly. We have done this replacement more times than I can count for customers in the last 25 years. PM me for my number and feel free to call any time with questions. And also, HOLY CRAP on the cracked block, that is impressive!!! I may have a good long block that will need machining if another customer with water reversion issues doesn't need it. A word of advise, DO NOT BUY INTERNET ENGINES. We've had several customers do just that because they didn't want to wait and nearly all of them failed prematurely from poor and careless machining. If you have a shop you trust, great but there are hacks galore building engines without any knowledge and selling them online through this mass engine companies. There are other options available, like short blocks from GM performance but again, the cam MUST be the same grind.
                              Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...

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