Restoring a '08 22ve

[Grebva3]

https://www.wakegarage.com/projects-...flooring-r276/

[Grebva3]

https://www.wakegarage.com/projects-...flooring-r276/

[Vettedrmr]

Thanks, that project writeup is quite helpful on what I'm getting myself into.

Have a good one,
Mike

[Vettedrmr]

Got the sound system rebuild finished. I ended up going with a mix of Polk 6.5" speakers for the hull speakers and Skar 6.5" speakers for the tower. All of the original speaker cones were dead, and the tower buckets (bullets?) were badly oxidized/sunburned.

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I wetsanded the buckets with 600 and 800 grit, then painted them with plastic compatible Krylon paint. The paint's not perfect, but it'll do, for now. I ended up using a wire brush on a bench grinder to clean up the metal brackets, then painted them with krinkle finish gray.

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<to be continued>

[Vettedrmr]

I've ended up not reusing anything other than wiring from the original system. Based on a lot of advice from this forum, I ended up finding a good deal on a refurbed Wetsounds MC-1 headunit with two remotes.

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The original amp system had two Kicker amps (700.5 and 350.4) that were apparently non-marine rated. I replaced those two with a Kicker KMA 600.6, intending to replace the sub with a powered sub. However, I found that the existing sub reinforced the bass suitably for what I want (remember that I don't intend to blast my neighbors a half-mile away).

This is what it looked like after I did a fair amount of tidying wiring etc. up, but before I replaced the two amps:

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And after I got the new amp installed:

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Obviously I won't get to really test it until we get back out on the water, but in the shop everything sounds great.

Next up, more hull compounding work.

Y'all have a good one,
Mike

[Vettedrmr]

Next up was to get the transom emblem removed, the gelcoat compounded, the new emblem (thanks to Domed Numbers) applied, and the whole thing waxed. Domed Numbers didn't have the right size Tige emblem (Tige had zero, zip, nada), so they had me dimension the "box" the emblem was in, and they DESIGNED one for me. It's actually in their catalog now if anyone wants one.

Here's the old emblem.,
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the fading of the gelcoat after the old emblem was removed...

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and the new emblem after the gelcoat was compounded.

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Next up is getting the gelcoat on the swim platform cleaned up and the platform re-installed. I've ditched the old rusted pins and will be using stainless bolts and nylock nuts.

Y'all have a good one,
Mike

[cruzinZ]

Looks great Vettedrmr!

[Vettedrmr]

A big step backwards happened in mid April, when I learned (eventually) that the previous owners failed to winterize the boat the winter before we bought it, and the engine was broken. As in 4 cracks in the block, 2 in each of the cylinder heads. That journey is documented here:

https://www.tigeowners.com/forum/gen...ike-a-disaster

and here:

https://www.tigeowners.com/forum/gen...ike-a-disaster

Huge thanks go out to everyone here that offered suggestions, especially boatwakes who gave me excellent advice along the way.

After a fairly short ops check ride last weekend, I changed the oil out after a little over an hour total run time, and my wife and I took her out for our first real outing on Lake Ouachita, NW of Hot Springs. Everything went, just normal, with the exception of the center display and speed control being dead.

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At this point the only thing functional that I need to fix is, like I said above, the center display and speed control. Other than that it's all cosmetic stuff I'll work on as time permits.

Y'all be safe out there, and have a good one,
Mike

[Vettedrmr]

Now that we're getting some time on our boat, I've experienced something unusual with our Wet Sounds system. Ocassionally (25-50% of the time), when I shut the boat off, the WS MC-1 head unit and both remotes will hang up with the "Goodbye" text illuminated on the two remotes, and the head unit showing "0.0 volts". It will stay like this "forever", and won't power back up. When I disconnect/reconnect the 12V continuous lead (yellow wire), it shuts down (duh!), and normal operations are restored.

I checked on various forums to see if anyone knew the cause of this problem, but couldn't find anything, other than it's a known issue. To get around this, I've run the 12V continuous line through my ACC switch, just so I can conveniently work around this issue.

Thought I'd throw this out in case anyone else was having this issue.

Y'all have a good one,
Mike

[Vettedrmr]

Probably the easiest, best ROI of any of the restoration work I've done on this boat: replacing the switch covers. The originals were completely bleached out.

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I got a set of switch covers from New Wire Marine. Cost was minimal (get their removal tool!), and the only one they didn't have was for the speed control. For that one I put a blank cover with the colored window. Took about 10 minutes start to finish.

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Have a good one,
Mike