Restoring sank Tigé 22ve

[2DiscoverEDM]

20231002_121218.jpg Hello everyone this is my first Tigé that I have ever owned, 2010 Tigé 22ve. I have years experience as a boat mechanic but I have never had chance to own a Tigé until now. This boat sank, under for one night in fresh water, and the owner offered it to me at a crazy price. The motor was gone through shortly after towing back to the marina to get the water out. Now I will need your help to locate parts and maybe some mechanical questions. If possible I would like to have fully restored the boat by the end of this coming January. I can tell you, right now due to electrical issues the boat will not start, just cranks over. And the gauges are half full of water, touchscreen just shows blue with lines going through it. Needless to say I have some work ahead, I haven't tested much, just tried to crank it so far. But like i stated, no start likey due to ecm or the module under the dashboard.

[2DiscoverEDM]

More pics. 20231002_121412.jpg20231002_121218.jpg20231002_121423.jpg20231002_121000.jpg20231002_121006.jpg

[boatwakes]

Replace everything electrical, no exceptions or you'll be chasing gremlins for the life of your ownership. Label and pull ALL the harnesses and remake them with Deutsch connectors and new wire to the same lengths. Have done the exact same thing when we salvaged one off the bottom 15 years ago. Tons of work but without question, you MUST REPLACE EVERYTHING ELECTRICAL that was not water proof. ECM, engine harness and all relays included. Alternator, starter, distributor etc.. I know I won't do it again at my age but if done right, you'll have a good boat.

[txmxer]

Ive never done a project this big, but I will agree with above, rewiring will probably save you so much of a headache down the line of chasing electrical issues.

[2DiscoverEDM]

I learned how did the boat sink, the bracket/brace that supports the prop shaft under the boat is missing a bolt where it bolts to the hull, water came in that hole and the bilge pumped back out until the battery died, then it sank. I fully agree about the electrical connections being a future problem. When I first tried to crank the boat, no start would just crank over. Then over the weekend I put a shop tank with gas on the motor, why you ask. Well the fuel pump wilĺ not turn on, due to ecm issue. Anyways after connecting gas and using my power probe to turn on the fuel pump it finally cranks and runs with no misfires. So now I have seen it run, also while running the touch screen did work somewhat. I mean it turns on the blower and ect. The problem though is there is no communication on the CAN line between the engine. So the screen shows no info about the engine. It reads CAN data loss , and shows zero hours, zero oil psi and just zero everything from the motor. Which is fine I am just happy to see it run at this stage and oil psi is normal. So soon I will rip out all the electrical and start my conversion, this is going to be a big conversion to analog everything, engine will be swapped from efi to big 4 barrel intake and carb, ignition will be converted to delco est. I just learned the control box has no throttle cable, its got a TPS. So it will be swapped for one that takes a cable instead of TPS.

So I work at a boat dealership/marina and after I make an order list I will begin the work of removing all faulty electrical. My goal is keep it stupid simple and keep it looking original as much as I can. and i need it easy for any boat mechanic to work on. So analog parts and mechanical parts is what many boats have, this one will soon be that way too instead of digital everything. I have done this job on other boats with excellent results but this will be the hardest one due to me trying to keep it looking original around the dash, meaning I need still touchscreen that is same size as tigé touch.
but the hard part is getting analog gauges to look like it came in the boat from factory, fitting 5 gauges in place where there is 3 gauge holes. My switch panel and ballast panel will be easy once you see what I have in mind. Thanks for any advice or opinions. Perfectpass may or may not be installed later on. I know tigé had its own version of it built into this boat, but I haven't decided whether to add it back when I'm done since tigé version will be gone after my conversion. I will post more pics once I start removing faulty electronics. Thanks for reading. Please leave advice and leave comments

[2DiscoverEDM]

This is my list of parts to convert the engine from 343 horsepower efi to 350 horsepower carburetor.

4 barrel carb
4 barrel intake
Delco est distributor
Low psi fuel pump
Oil psi sender and switch
Temp sender and switch
Starter relay
Flame arrestor
Intake gaskets
Spark plugs and wires
Throttle cable
Starter and fuse
50 amp main breaker
Crank position sensor plug
Fuel water separating filter
Oil and filter
Push start ignition switch conversion
Wiring harness
Possible alternator, new one installed 3hr ago or 2 days before sinking.

[2DiscoverEDM]

Does any know where I can get some of these swim platform mounts? It's broke on the boat side. But I may end up having to have a machine shop cnc cut a few of them for me if nobody sells them. They looked like cast aluminum where it broke. 20231003_160203.jpg

[lee]

https://alloymarine.com/products/rem...deck-brackets/

[Grebva3]

I second Lee alloy marine helped me fix my 2006 20V same issue

[boatwakes]

Why on earth are you switching to carb?!!! If anything, swap it to Holley Sniper EFI, I just did the same on my 1971 Hallett BBC. We custom fabricated exhaust spacers for the O2 sensors but thats really all that's needed.

[2DiscoverEDM]

Thank you boatwakes, so before you said that I had heard about sniper efi, but did not know they had coast guard approved options until now. So it is very likely, to save time with tuning, that i will purchase the sniper efi quadrajet version. I do appreciate that recommendation.

[chpthril]

Is it purely a cost standpoint to convert to a carb or sniper v's getting a new ECM from Marine Power? Unless the engine is getting punched out and the cam getting bumped, I see no real performance gain.

[h2o-ski]

Holley just released a much improved Sniper 2 however Holley does not have a CG approved version of that one yet. Currently the base Marine Sniper v1 is $1300. I get wanting to go analog, but there very few problems with modern EFI.

[Matt Garcia]

This will be an interesting thread to follow. Good luck and keep us posted!

[2DiscoverEDM]

So I haven't taken pictures to show you guys, but believe me I did think about just swapping to a new ecm of the same kind. The problem is in the connections, every electrical connection on the engine is oxidized on the sensor terminals and on the plug itself that goes into the sensor. I was blown away just seeing how was ate away on the prongs in the sensors. To save problems in the future I will go through the entire electrical system, but the parts that are ate up will just be thrown away. I do not want to go back in there and chase problems later on. With that being said, new sensors will be installed on the engine and Trans, Analog signals do not communicate with eachother. I know you could easily say well digital senders don't communicate with each other, however digital senders are more likely to be affected if just one has a problem it does sometimes make the others read incorrect. Depending on the problem that was going on such as one 5v sensor can go faulty and brings down the 5v on all sensors in that line, making incorrect readings on all those senders.
Analog senders are not linked together in any way other than a common ground. Basically they are stand alone and easy to diag.

I do still want a digital dash. So at the moment I am researching which products do I want to use to read those analog signals. For example I will explain that I intend to have digital gauges, and still have a depth finder that will allow me to control my stereo on the depth finder. That's no big deal to find, however on the original Tigé touch screen there was more going on. Such as the ability to control ballast levels and turn on the switches for blowers, bilge, ect. I intend for that all to be done the same way when I'm done.
So Garmin sells touchscreens that that communicate with the stereo in which case Garmin makes Fusion radios so i will probablyend up with that brand. Not only that, Garmin sells modules that converts analog signals such as my engine signals. And then to top it off, Garmin also sells switch boxes, I will explain it as that allows me to turn on any electrical device in the boat, all being done through the depth finder touch screen. So you can see likely I will be able to keep the boat modernized and maybe even have more features than the original boat had. Without bringing down the value of the boat. But if I completely install analog gauges and push buttons for the electrical, it will rob value from the boat. And complicate things for the user possibly. The end user won't be me. I am fixing and selling this but I do want the best for whoever owns it next, within reason.