Fault code help

[Zackdogg]

Anyone know what this is? It did it once over Labor Day weekend, and went away with a battery reset. Did it right after launch today, I had 2 O2 sensors on board, so we changed the upper ones out, on the water, seemed fine for a 25 minute, 25mph ride across the lake, as soon as we dropped to idle on the other side, it started again, seemed like it was in limp mode, reset the battery, and hauled *** back across the lake, and it was fine until we dropped back to idle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[JCP]

Cylinder 7 ignition coil open or short to ground.

[Zackdogg]

Thank you!! Assuming bad coil is likely the culprit?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[freeheel4life]

Just FYI Zackdogg there are LH and RH coil packs on that so be sure to specify which bank(you'd be Bank 2 for cylinder 7). It's also two different spark plugs per hole

[Zackdogg]

Just FYI Zackdogg there are LH and RH coil packs on that so be sure to specify which bank(you'd be Bank 2 for cylinder 7). It's also two different spark plugs per hole

I’ll get in there tonight, so I’ll probably see what you’re talking about, if not I’ll be asking more dumb questions!!

Let me ask you this, while we’re here. Does the way it was working make sense to you, where it’s on throwing a fault at idle? It ran fine, when we were at 4000rpm, and would only throw the code when we backed off, down towards, or at idle. Are failures on those common?

As usual, thanks brotha!! This boat would have gone missing a long time ago, without your help!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[freeheel4life]

Usually coil pack failures present as a shudder/misfire when you start cramming more air in the cylinder and spark gets "blown out"...

Sometimes a miss can be on the cylinder before of after in firing order and the CKP/CPS picks it up late. If you have access to diacom I like to use it to go to the misfire counter screen and see if I also have corresponding misfires. Also, you can then do an injector kill test and usually find the dead hole....but not always.

Usually if you have an ignition issue and injector is still working you get a fuel trim code for that bank as well. When you look at your diagnostic menu does it say code 1/1 or is the SPN 1274 maybe code 1/2??

[Zackdogg]

Usually coil pack failures present as a shudder/misfire when you start cramming more air in the cylinder and spark gets "blown out"...

Sometimes a miss can be on the cylinder before of after in firing order and the CKP/CPS picks it up late. If you have access to diacom I like to use it to go to the misfire counter screen and see if I also have corresponding misfires. Also, you can then do an injector kill test and usually find the dead hole....but not always.

Usually if you have an ignition issue and injector is still working you get a fuel trim code for that bank as well. When you look at your diagnostic menu does it say code 1/1 or is the SPN 1274 maybe code 1/2??

That might have been what I felt, when I thought it was going into “limp mode”It didn’t feel exactly like limp, just a lack of power, and it definitely shuddered. When I reset it, and hammered down before it caught that fault again, it was fine, thankfully, since we were probably close to 10 miles from the ramp, at Pyramid, on a day with almost zero boats on the lake, like an hour before sunset. Could have been not so bueno for us. It threw that same code, every time, which I would assume, would mean it is that cylinder, or it reads it wrong every time?

I can take it in to have it read on a diacom, if need be, or try replacing the coil packs on 7 to see if that fixes the problem. I guess I could replace 3 and 7, if it’s potentially either of those.

It says the 1/2 at the top, if that’s what you’re asking? Did you see the pic I posted in the opening of this thread?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[freeheel4life]

I see now the pic now. Didnt look that close. If you turn your key to IGN position then request stored faults it should pull both faults up. Then push the right arrow and it should then say 2/2 and give you the other code. If it's a LTFT or STFT code then you almost certainly know you have an ignition issue.

I'd throw a coil and both olugs at that hole and see what happens.

[Zackdogg]

I see now the pic now. Didnt look that close. If you turn your key to IGN position then request stored faults it should pull both faults up. Then push the right arrow and it should then say 2/2 and give you the other code. If it's a LTFT or STFT code then you almost certainly know you have an ignition issue.

I'd throw a coil and both olugs at that hole and see what happens.

I almost said, there’s only on spark plug, on mine, but realized that there is one under the coil, like a Toyota, or I’m sure a bunch of other stuff, and one to a plug wire. Is that a marine coil, or are they all automotive? Assuming the automotive are sealed, so they probably just use those.

I must have erased those codes, because it’s showing zero faults now. I’ll grab a couple of coil packs, and spark plug sets, change 7 out, and take extras to change if I need them, next time out. Running out of lake season quick, here.

As usual, you’re the man!! I appreciate the help!! And owe you more beers and boat days, next time you’re in Reno or Tahoe!! Thanks brotha!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[freeheel4life]

I've gone down the automotive route before and definitely don't tell a Ford dealer/parts house you want a coil for a 6.2 that's in the 250s/350s. You'll wind up disappointed. Pretend you have a early Raptor that was in the F150 chassis....and AFAIK they're just Motorcraft coil.

Indmar does a good job of painting over the Motorcraft part numbers on the coils in my experience...and yes, theres one plug under the coil boot and then the pigtail you see to the plug in the side of the head and they are two different plug #s

Last time I went thru this I ended up just ordering the coil from Indmar. You don't owe me a damn thing man. Always willing to help those that want to help themselves

[Zackdogg]

I've gone down the automotive route before and definitely don't tell a Ford dealer/parts house you want a coil for a 6.2 that's in the 250s/350s. You'll wind up disappointed. Pretend you have a early Raptor that was in the F150 chassis....and AFAIK they're just Motorcraft coil.

Indmar does a good job of painting over the Motorcraft part numbers on the coils in my experience...and yes, theres one plug under the coil boot and then the pigtail you see to the plug in the side of the head and they are two different plug #s

Last time I went thru this I ended up just ordering the coil from Indmar. You don't owe me a damn thing man. Always willing to help those that want to help themselves

I was crawling around in there with a flashlight, so I could see some numbers on the top of the coil. I could tell that Indmar painted them for that exact reason. Haven’t figured out quite what it is, yet, but I will! And I’m always looking for an excuse to drink beers, and get on the water, so I say I still owe you, call it what you like!! I appreciate it, either way!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Zackdogg]

I've gone down the automotive route before and definitely don't tell a Ford dealer/parts house you want a coil for a 6.2 that's in the 250s/350s. You'll wind up disappointed. Pretend you have a early Raptor that was in the F150 chassis....and AFAIK they're just Motorcraft coil.

Indmar does a good job of painting over the Motorcraft part numbers on the coils in my experience...and yes, theres one plug under the coil boot and then the pigtail you see to the plug in the side of the head and they are two different plug #s

Last time I went thru this I ended up just ordering the coil from Indmar. You don't owe me a damn thing man. Always willing to help those that want to help themselves

They look to be just regular Ford coils. They’re stamped with FoMoCo, just like you said, which look like some of the pics I found of them coils on the 2010-2014 Raptor SVT. Looks like they switched to an eco boost in 2015, which is good info for finding parts, for sure.


BTW, should the circled be uncapped, and nothing plugged in? I found one pic of an Indmar Raptor that looked the same, I just wanted to make sure.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[freeheel4life]

Yes it's normal and fine uncapped because solenoid is closed. I believe in the automotive application is the EVAP purge solenoid.

If it was open youf have an unregulated vacuum leak behind the throttle body and you'd be idling high

[Zackdogg]

Yes it's normal and fine uncapped because solenoid is closed. I believe in the automotive application is the EVAP purge solenoid.

If it was open youf have an unregulated vacuum leak behind the throttle body and you'd be idling high

Seemed like it would be sucking, a bunch of air, which is why I didn’t think it was a big deal. Thanks, once again amigo!!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Zackdogg]

Just to update this, in case anyone ever reads it, I bought this set of MSD coil packs from summit, and 16 NGK plugs for a 2014 SVT Raptor, and they resolved the problem.



Little shout out to @freehee4life for saving my ***, once again. There were less expensive coil packs for the same application, I’ve always been a fan of MSD stuff, for automotive, so I went with those. Boat performed really well, at Tahoe, where it has struggled in the past, so I’m happy I went with them. If I have any kind of issue, in the future, I’ll update.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro