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    Indmar oil dipstick stuck

    No, not a euphemism but it’s really stuck in the tube. I had it winterized by the dealer last fall and I just wanted to check the level before starting it up and can’t get the dipstick out. It only comes out about an inch then hangs up on something. Ideas?


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    #2
    Mine feels similar, I’ll give a little twist as you pull up and it eventually pulls out. Same as you put it back in too


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      #3
      Originally posted by Bamer View Post
      Mine feels similar, I’ll give a little twist as you pull up and it eventually pulls out. Same as you put it back in too


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      Ya. Tried that. Twisting and turning. Jiggle while twisting, nothing seems to break it loose. Seems really caught up on something.


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        #4
        Did they perform an oil change for your winterization? If they stuck the suction tube down the dipstick tube...
        Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...

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          #5
          I'd take it back to the dealer and ask them about it before I'd start playing around with it. IF something is wrong, it should be on them so I'd let them do the diagnostics.

          2012 22ve.. RIP 4/17
          2014 Z3.. Surf away

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            #6
            Originally posted by boatwakes View Post
            Did they perform an oil change for your winterization? If they stuck the suction tube down the dipstick tube...
            That’s my thought. Why would they use a suction tube though? It has a suction hose on the other side. Not only that, they gave me back a Volvo plug that doesn’t fit anywhere they obviously dropped a plug in the bilge and just threw one that was blue in the baggy. Guess what, it don’t fit! This is our “new” Tige dealer.


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              #7
              Why do people use wire nuts for marine connections?!!! This list I have is literally endless about how did they, why did they, who the f*ck did, how did this d*ckhead keep his job... but honestly, I investigated a claim last year for this EXACT issue but the owner used a non-petroleum compatible plastic tube down the dipstick on a hot engine. The tube remnants got sucked into the oil pickup screen and blocked it. Sooooooooo, as sandm said, have a quick discussion with the "new" dealer before things turn ugly but I'm fairly certain the pan will have to come off it it's a block penetrating dipstick. If it's one that has the adapter on the bottom of the pan, only the tube has to be disconnected from the adapter, but again, who's responsible for this?
              Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...

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                #8
                Originally posted by boatwakes View Post
                Why do people use wire nuts for marine connections?!!! This list I have is literally endless about how did they, why did they, who the f*ck did, how did this d*ckhead keep his job... but honestly, I investigated a claim last year for this EXACT issue but the owner used a non-petroleum compatible plastic tube down the dipstick on a hot engine. The tube remnants got sucked into the oil pickup screen and blocked it. Sooooooooo, as sandm said, have a quick discussion with the "new" dealer before things turn ugly but I'm fairly certain the pan will have to come off it it's a block penetrating dipstick. If it's one that has the adapter on the bottom of the pan, only the tube has to be disconnected from the adapter, but again, who's responsible for this?
                So doing just that. They said they experienced this one other time but got it out by jiggling and twisting the hell out of it. So back it goes. We’ll see.


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                  #9
                  Update. Got it out! Took it to the dealer and they had the manic touch. We noticed the dipstick is actually two pieces splices together and think that’s what’s making it catch so they took a grinder to it a bit and it’s smoother. Seems to work. Thank god it wasn’t worse!


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                    #10
                    Originally posted by boatwakes View Post
                    Why do people use wire nuts for marine
                    Just curious and always like to learn, but why not wire nut? How’s a wire nut different than a butt connector? Tige uses butt connection in several places.....or maybe the dealer did....

                    I personally don’t like either and prefer to solder and heat shrink .....


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                      #11
                      On aircraft, a crimp connection is usually preferred to solder because solder usually wicks into the strands and the wire may eventually break at the wick’s end due to vibration.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by Bamer View Post

                        Just curious and always like to learn, but why not wire nut? How’s a wire nut different than a butt connector? Tige uses butt connection in several places.....or maybe the dealer did....

                        I personally don’t like either and prefer to solder and heat shrink .....


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                        Just my experience and looking forward to boatwakes take/experience...but wire nuts tend to be used on solid wire and not stranded wire, and also in areas not exposed to moisture or vibration. I use heat shrink butt connectors that seal back to the insulation.

                        Occasionally I will use some butt connectors I like that have a solder piece in the connector. Crimp it and is you heat the solder melts and the connector shrinks down. I mostly only use them for very small gauge wires tho.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by isaac View Post
                          On aircraft, a crimp connection is usually preferred to solder because solder usually wicks into the strands and the wire may eventually break at the wick’s end due to vibration.
                          I can see that. The solder becomes very rigid and there’s a stress point right where the solder stops...after enough movement that stress point is likely the spot that could break. Lots of time, I will double up on heat shrink for that exact reason to help add strain relief to the area where the solder ends.


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                            #14
                            ABYC standards 11.16.3.6, wire nuts shall not be used. It comes down to fire and moisture propagation through capillary action in the wire. Wire nuts allow their connections to come apart and potentially expose bare energized leads. The same standards also only suggests tinned copper wire be used in all dc applications but we don’t use anything else. Crimped Waterproof heat shrink adhesive lined connectors alleviate the issue and guarantee lifetime connections. See the link below for more info.

                            https://www.ancorproducts.com/en/res...abyc-standards
                            Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...

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