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For those of you getting ready to fire up for the first time this year...

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    #16
    We use antifreeze in a 35gal tub with a 2000GPH bilge pump in the tub connected to the fake a lake. We position the tub under the exhaust and catch about 99% of the antifreeze as it circulates through the system and have a kustom(<--with a K) whiskey tango adapter to catch the dripless feed from the shaft and return it back to the tub. Run it for 3-5 minutes to make sure it's all pink coming out and done.

    At Bamer, if the leak happened after the boat was put away and wasn't running, the case is probably cracked. The fluid coolers are located internal to the v-drive and when they break, you get Pepto looking transmission fluid. If you're unsure but don't see any outward signs of damage, run the engine for 1 minute either on the hose or in the water then shut down and look for fluid color changes in the oil and transmission. If everything looks good, run an additional 5 minutes and perform the same fluid check. Chocolate milk looking oil and Pepto looking transmission fluid is emulsified water in the oil. If everything looks fine following that, you should be good to go. Additionally, the Raptor exhaust manifolds we've seen with problems have not been drained. There was a subtle red line just below the expansion plugs/casting plugs/freeze plugs which turned out to be rust from corrosion of the cracked cast iron. We just had another cracked 350 show up today and we're in Southern California.

    Quick heads up on interchangeable parts for cracked gm FUEL INJECTED small blocks; you cannot run a flat tappet camshaft with any marine fuel injection!!! Meaning, don't buy the incorrect long block, put everything together yourself and then wonder why the engine won't perform (ask me how we know, it's a story that happens every year). The fuel injected engines must use the specific roller camshaft ground for that particular application, their ECM fuel curve depends on it. Fortunately, the cams are usually in re-usable condition even if the rest of the engine isn't. If they are damaged though, send me a note and I'll give you the guy who re-grinds ours when needed (all to factory specifications). This means you can re-use the camshaft in another 1987 and newer engine block, of which there are literally millions available.
    Last edited by boatwakes; 04-14-2021, 09:38 PM.
    Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...

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      #17
      On a normal lake day, the water left in the bilge does not have noticeable oils films on the top.

      When I pulled the plugs last year, I noticed the water that drained in the bilge had an oil film on the top. I thought it was odd and more than what is normal in my bilge as I wash out residual oil from oil changes with soap. Boat is at the dealer for warranty parts that took 6months to come in otherwise I’d look at the oil. I told the dealer about the leak, so hopefully they will find the root cause


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        #18
        [mention]boatwakes [/mention] other than a crack, what are the likely culprits for an oil leak? I’ve never had a vdrive apart, so I don’t know what the internals are or where there are seals or what kind of seals. I’ve read that you can pull the shaft and there are a couple o rings seals that can tend to leak. My dealer did a shaft alignment and was wondering if that could cause it to leak.


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          #19
          Bamer the most common leak point I've seen on Raptors is the remote engine oil lines that run from the block down low on stbd side towards the front of the engine to the oil cooler.

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            #20
            Originally posted by freeheel4life View Post
            Bamer the most common leak point I've seen on Raptors is the remote engine oil lines that run from the block down low on stbd side towards the front of the engine to the oil cooler.
            By front, do you mean towards the vdrive or towards the raw water heat exchanger? Not sure if you mean front of boat or front of reverse sitting engine. I know the oil was dripping from the bottom of the vdrive housing cause I put on hand on the bottom of the housing and felt it. Of course that doesn’t the vdrive is the source of the leak. Didn’t look like engine oil, it was pretty clear. Also the boat was bow down and only saw oil just below the housing and oil ran down hill under the full tank. When you pull the shaft, does oil come out or does the oil never touch the shaft inside the housing?


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              #21
              I didnt realize you felt oil on the vdrive housing. The engine oil fitting I was talking about that leak are front of engine, near the heat exchanger. Depending on year/engine package some have a standalone oil cooler next to heat exchanger, others the oil cooler is in the base of the oil filter housing. The hoses to and from the block to the cooler have been loose on some engines and cause oil leaks.

              You should not have oil when you pull the shaft from the coupler.

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                #22
                Bamer, when you pull the prop shaft it NEVER touches oil, there is a singular seal at the v-drive output coupler. Put an oil absorbent pad under the v-drive, run it and see if you can locate exactly where it's coming from. Alignment is easy if you know what to do and I've found in the last decade some dealers have really screwed things up trying to do shaft alignments. However, it is highly unlikely your dealer caused the apparently new leak. Post some pics if you can.
                Fixing everyone elses boat just so I can use mine...

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                  #23
                  Thanks for all of your help with the freeze damage. Unfortunately it looks like my v drive is shot. I just checked the oil per boatwakes instructions and I definitely have pepto bismol fluid. I don’t see any leaking or cracks in the exhaust manifolds but that doesn’t mean they’re not bad too. Do you guys know anyone in the North Texas area that could get a new v drive and fix all of this? I’m going to start calling dealers tomorrow but I assume they’re backed up repairing boats they sold. I bought used so I don’t have a relationship with a dealer.

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by dkyg View Post
                    Thanks for all of your help with the freeze damage. Unfortunately it looks like my v drive is shot. I just checked the oil per boatwakes instructions and I definitely have pepto bismol fluid. I don’t see any leaking or cracks in the exhaust manifolds but that doesn’t mean they’re not bad too. Do you guys know anyone in the North Texas area that could get a new v drive and fix all of this? I’m going to start calling dealers tomorrow but I assume they’re backed up repairing boats they sold. I bought used so I don’t have a relationship with a dealer.
                    Well if it's pink pepto bismol then it's the trans and not the Vdrive...unless someone has put the wrong fluid in the trans. The trans dipstick on a Raptor is red and is on the starboard side of the engine closest to the bell housing. The vdrive dipstick is yellow and in the port side near the shaft coupler. If its watery/yellow/butterscotch milkshake then the internal v drive cooler is cracked.

                    The trans has an external cooler. You trans is likely fine after some flushing and an external cooler replacement.

                    I've yet to see a cracked Raptor manifold. They typically push out the casting/expansion plugs on the freeze damaged Raptors I've seen. Just need to put it new plugs.

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by dkyg View Post
                      Thanks for all of your help with the freeze damage. Unfortunately it looks like my v drive is shot. I just checked the oil per boatwakes instructions and I definitely have pepto bismol fluid. I don’t see any leaking or cracks in the exhaust manifolds but that doesn’t mean they’re not bad too. Do you guys know anyone in the North Texas area that could get a new v drive and fix all of this? I’m going to start calling dealers tomorrow but I assume they’re backed up repairing boats they sold. I bought used so I don’t have a relationship with a dealer.
                      Eagle Marine if Ft Worth is the only Tige dealer in DFW.....and yes they aré slammed...


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                        #26
                        Here's a picture of the dip stick and the transmission. I thought the v drive was built into the transmission. I guess I need to check the v drive now. Wish me luck!

                        Is the transmission cooler mounted right behind the heat exchanger? It looks like there's another cylinder type cooler back there. Any chance it's an external v drive cooler?

                        The boat is a 2016 R-22 with a Indmar 360R which technically isn't a raptor but from what I've read it's the same engine just detuned. I've only changed the engine oil so I doubt any other fluids have been changed. I bought it with 25 hours on it and it only has around 100 now.

                        I looked at the casting plugs on the manifolds today and they were fine. The screw in plug had a little rust around the hole but that seems normal where the threads aren't painted.


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                          #27
                          That would be the only Raptor I've ever seen with that drive train configuration....so my bad. Thought you had a different package from the flywheel back.

                          Regardless, you have a remote cooler. That line in the top of your pic runs to the cooler. I'd still bet it's the external thats cracked and you need to flush and should be okay.

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