Where do you put the intakes and pumps on a 24Ve?

[chpthril]

I presume the above height dimensions are overall height, i.e. to the top of the pumps? The impeller will be in the middle of the pump somewhere, and as long as the impeller is below the waterline the pump will be self-priming. Therefore, even with the "tall" configuration, as long as the inside surface of the hull is at least 7.25 inches below the waterline it should work.

I'm pretty certain there is at least that much draft back in the bilge area. I'll take some measurements next time I'm near the storage facility.

Another reason I like the vertical configuration: Strength. I'm concerned about the lever arm created by a pump hanging at the end of an elbow. Worse yet would be a manifold consisting of several pumps and hoses. That's potentially a lot of stress on the elbow and all intermediate fittings.

My online research suggests that a one inch ball valve adds about 0.5 inches in length (height) over a 0.75 inch ball valve. If the draft is available, do you think it wise to go to one inch on the inlet? The pump itself only uses a 3/4 inch inlet but it's never good to starve a pump for water. A 1.0 to 0.75 adapter would also be required on top of the valve, but those don't add much height since they end up concentric to the two items they are adapting.

Ok, heres what I got using a virgin (not cut down) thru-hull and Rule 405C pump.

T-hull/ball-valve/pump = 11" from the t-hull outer flange.


T-hull/elbow/ball-valve/pump = 5H x 11L


T-hull/valve/elbow/pump = 8H x 9L



In regards to using 1" plumbing and stepping down to 3/4 IFT's, a simple 1" male x 3/4 female bushing is all thats needed. I do not feel that a 3/4 thru hill will starve a single 3/4" inlet pump. Especially when its below the waterline.

For a manifold, it's a good idea to fab a support or hanger to relieve the load on the elbow and PVC pipe that connects the manifold to the elbow.

[IDBoating]

You will definitely have enough draft to keep the pump flooded either way you decide to go. Personally, I would skip the street elbow since you don't need it, you'll save money, and it's easier to ensure the pump body will always be purged in that configuration.

Then the only remaining question is the difficulty of the reach to vertically mounted valves behind the engine. Until late yesterday I had been operating on the presumption that I'd be using an elbow and the valves would be laying flat; all of my access considerations were based on that. I'm pretty sure opening the rear door of the starboard storage compartment (like the battery door on the port side) will give my arm enough reach to vertically mounted valves. I'll check next visit.

I've raised a separate question in another thread: How do you handle the transition from NPS threads on the thru hull to NPT threads on the 405FC? You said you have NPS valves, but that just moves the mismatch to the pump side.

[da.bell]

Then the only remaining question is the difficulty of the reach to vertically mounted valves behind the engine. Until late yesterday I had been operating on the presumption that I'd be using an elbow and the valves would be laying flat; all of my access considerations were based on that. I'm pretty sure opening the rear door of the starboard storage compartment (like the battery door on the port side) will give my arm enough reach to vertically mounted valves. I'll check next visit.

That sounds fine until the sack in your lockers are filled and you have to stop the flow of water getting into the boat. Getting to that area is going to be a PITA.

[IDBoating]

Ok, heres what I got using a virgin (not cut down) thru-hull and Rule 405C pump. T-hull/ball-valve/pump = 11" from the t-hull outer flange.

Wow, that's a big difference from Jason's 7.25 dimension earlier in this thread. Not trying to start a fight here, guys, but where's the difference? Looks like cutting down the thru hull will only yield an inch or two. Jason, were you measuring from the inside hull surface as opposed to overall height?

[IDBoating]

That sounds fine until the sack in your lockers are filled and you have to stop the flow of water getting into the boat.

I thought of that, and figure in such an emergency slashing the sac to dump its water will be the least of my concerns. The weight of the sac's water is already in the boat, so whether it's in or out of the sac doesn't change my situation. The bilge pump can then dump the water overboard, and if I'm really in a hurry the now-useless sac's own drain pump could be stuck down in the bilge to more than double the bilge pumping capacity.

[chpthril]

Wow, that's a big difference from Jason's 7.25 dimension earlier in this thread. Not trying to start a fight here, guys, but where's the difference? Looks like cutting down the thru hull will only yield an inch or two. Jason, were you measuring from the inside hull surface as opposed to overall height?

I'm now glad that I snapped the pics. I would rather you have "worst-case scenario" going into.

[Ewok]

Wow, that's a big difference from Jason's 7.25 dimension earlier in this thread. Not trying to start a fight here, guys, but where's the difference? Looks like cutting down the thru hull will only yield an inch or two. Jason, were you measuring from the inside hull surface as opposed to overall height?

You can swing by my house tonight and take your own measurements if you like.

[Timmy!]

Everyone will probably disagree but if I did my install again, I would probably just do them like Epic does them, 3 pumps with their own thru-hulls on the transom right above the drain plug with screens on the thu-hulls. I can't remember his name(something with dog) but someone on here with an older Tige did this setup on his boat. It's so clean and simple and I still kick myself for not going that route. One downside is that you can't fill while underway.

*Edit - it was Dogbert...

[Timmy!]

I've raised a separate question in another thread: How do you handle the transition from NPS threads on the thru hull to NPT threads on the 405FC? You said you have NPS valves, but that just moves the mismatch to the pump side.

I ran into this issue. The first thru hull I bought from Mike was one that had a barbed end on it and I cut the barb off and could then never find the parts to make it work properly so that is sitting in my garage collecting dust. I then got another thru hull that had the proper threads and my ball valve that I got from Jason worked properly. I got parts from all sorts of people - I spread the wealth around the boating forums with stuff from Mike, Andrew and Jason.

[chpthril]

I ran into this issue. The first thru hull I bought from Mike was one that had a barbed end on it and I cut the barb off and could then never find the parts to make it work properly so that is sitting in my garage collecting dust. I then got another thru hull that had the proper threads and my ball valve that I got from Jason worked properly. I got parts from all sorts of people - I spread the wealth around the boating forums with stuff from Mike, Andrew and Jason.

Sorry about that, I was unaware you were having an issue finding something to mate with those threads. They should be straight threads.

[IDBoating]

Sorry about that, I was unaware you were having an issue finding something to mate with those threads. They should be straight threads.

Yes, straight threads on the thru hull. And you can get a valve with straight threads. But how do you then properly transition to the tapered threads on the Rule pump?

[IDBoating]

...3 pumps with their own thru-hulls on the transom right above the drain plug with screens on the thu-hulls. It's so clean and simple and I still kick myself for not going that route. One downside is that you can't fill while underway.

Yes, but that's too high a price to pay. When I've been out on other people's wakesurf boats, they often tweak the ballast to suit the taste of the surfer while s/he is on the wave. Transom mounted intakes preclude that.

Also, at least on my 24Ve there is no way that I'd have access to the transom without removing walls in the storage and engine compartments. The only reason I can make that area work is because I can install the intakes more forward, toward the engine, which will put the valves within reach.

[Timmy!]

Yes, straight threads on the thru hull. And you can get a valve with straight threads. But how do you then properly transition to the tapered threads on the Rule pump?

You can get a thru hull with tapered threads on the end that will match up to the ball valve like you can buy at home depot. It is straight with the last 2" as tapered.

BTW - you probably won't need to fill more ballast while the surfer is riding if you are using the custom sac. Just fill it all the way and use the taps switch. A more likely scenario would be draining the ballast while under way and you would still be fine with that. You aren't really going to need to have access to the pumps much once it is installed.

[dom w. forte]

Then the only remaining question is the difficulty of the reach to vertically mounted valves behind the engine. Until late yesterday I had been operating on the presumption that I'd be using an elbow and the valves would be laying flat; all of my access considerations were based on that. I'm pretty sure opening the rear door of the starboard storage compartment (like the battery door on the port side) will give my arm enough reach to vertically mounted valves. I'll check next visit.

I've raised a separate question in another thread: How do you handle the transition from NPS threads on the thru hull to NPT threads on the 405FC? You said you have NPS valves, but that just moves the mismatch to the pump side.

Are you saying that you want to mount the pumps back by the transom, in the bildge?

[IDBoating]

Are you saying that you want to mount the pumps back by the transom, in the bildge?

That's my current thought, yes. There is an open space opposite the muffler/exhaust that is clear of the swing space needed by the rudder. Between the centerline of the hull and the first stringer there is a space at least 12 inches wide running from the transom forward to under the engine near the oil intercooler.

There is enough open area here, and enough vertical clearance if kept aft of the engine, to mount the pumps vertically with dedicated intake thru hulls.

This area is also aft of the triducer so the intakes will not create turbulence for its sensors.

Of the various options, this one looks the best so far. But you seem surprised... is there something I haven't thought about?