What oil do you use in your engine?

[IDBoating]

There's a lot of overlap in oil ratings.

"CK-4 with no spark rating (SM, SN) will still have the phosphorus rating of the older spec CJ-4. In other words, aside from some formula tweaking, it should be very similar in performance and protection for those of you sold on it and currently running it in gas engines. Dual rated oils, such as CK-4/SN, have to conform to the lower phosphorus limits of the spark engine designation. If you think this is confusing, head on over to the Chevron website where the choices for diesel applications are now in the double digits. Add in Ford's hot mess of WSS-M2C171-F1, and usually pretty quiet Powerstroke guys (in comparison to the Cummins crowd anyway) are now circling the room, muttering to themselves, and looking for a Valium."

In the specific case of Rotella T4 (which I use in our PCM EX343), its certs are on the last page of this document:

https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/prod.../t4-15w-40.pdf

...which includes JASO MA/MA2. To get that JASO rating, it must at least meet API SM, which is a rating for spark-plug equipped gasoline engines. So while it may say "Diesel" on the label, its ratings include those for gasoline engines too (implicitly, if not explicitly).

Oil ratings are a deep dark rabbit hole. There are countless threads online where people get all wound up about this-or-that rating, or whether that rating even matters, or whether having a catalytic converter changes everything (or not), etc. ad infinitum. If you have some spare days and want to really get into it, stock up on food and drink and visit the forums at https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum.../forum_summary.

Speaking personally, I've dug deep enough to satisfy myself that Rotella T4 (pure liquid dinosaurs, not synthetic nor a blend) is compatible with my EX343, so that's what I use. I also change the oil and filter religiously every 50 hours and again immediately before winter storage so long term breakdown effects are avoided. YMMV, check your engine manual and any labeling on the engine itself for what weight and ratings they specify. For example, I believe my engine's oil cap specifies different cert's than the engine manual (boat is already in storage so I can't run out and check right now). IIRC, the cap specifies both CJ-4 (diesel) and GF-4 (gasoline) ratings so I suspect PCM considers either rating to be acceptable in the EX343. This would also explain why some oil containers say both "diesel" and "gasoline"... it's entirely possible for them to meet both sets of specs, and if you dig into how the specs overlap a "non-gasoline" oil may in fact meet gasoline specs.

Have fun!

[JohnnieMo]

Here is a pic of the oil I used last fall. Although you can't easily tell, it says "For Diesel & Gasoline Engines"

IMG_4558.jpg

[JohnnieMo]

It appears to have the diesel certifications, but not the certification PCM is requesting: GF-4/SM.

IMG_9856.jpg

I wish I had the bottle from last year to compare. However I know it said gasoline on it. There are pictures all over the internet of it. So perhaps it's exactly the same oil, just with different packaging.

[IDBoating]

Don't worry about "gasoline" vs. "diesel" on the label. The oil does not "know" what fuel you're using in the engine. In a properly operating 4 stroke engine the oil and fuel never mix. What they're trying to convey is that some oils are more suited for "heavy duty" applications, and a wakeboat engine DEFINITELY qualifies as a heavy duty application. As Dom Forte once said to me, "It's like asking the engine to pull a truck uphill ALL the time".

If the oil has the proper rating (often 15W40 in our engines) and the proper certifications (GF numbers and such), it's fine.

[JohnnieMo]

I ran all year with RP 15W40 but that bottle said “gasoline and diesel” on it. This bottle, which I put in during winterization, just says “diesel”.

[bsreid]

You ran all season with no problems?... Change oil with some proper stuff and everything should remain fine.

[JohnnieMo]

I just fell into this hornets nest after putting this in my engine.



I swore last year it said “gasoline or diesel” on the bottle. This year it just says diesel with no ratings for gas. Now I’m wondering what to do!!

[mnpracing]

From my reading the ILSAC, GF-4 rating only applies to SAE 0W-20, 5W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30, and 10W-30 viscosity grade oils?
http://www.inp.nsk.su/news/seminars/2011_298_ILSAC.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

I saw that too. Seems strange that the owners manual calls for 15W-40 with al GF-4 rating.....

[TeamAllen]

From my reading the ILSAC, GF-4 rating only applies to SAE 0W-20, 5W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30, and 10W-30 viscosity grade oils?
http://www.inp.nsk.su/news/seminars/2011_298_ILSAC.pdf
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

[mnpracing]

That's the correct stuff. The "T" version is GF-4/SM rated (the other versions of Rotella aren't necessarily).

Raising this thread from the deal. Rotella T 15W-40 does not have a GF-4 rating. Anyone find a 15W-40 with the GF-4 and SM ratings? Most 15W-40's that I find have SM, but none have GF-4....

[IDBoating]

...if you are heavyly ballasted trans should be serviced everytime also due to the heat build up... Well thats my 2 cents worth.

Dom speaks, I listen!

I was wondering in another thread about changing the transmission fluid with every oil change because I don't seem to be getting all of the fluid out. Your comment is another excellent reason to do so.

Your wisdom is always appreciated. Thank you!

[dom w. forte]

My experince is based on 50 years of working on engines, IMO whats criticle is viscosity , climate and service timeline.
There is lots of difference from engine to engine and manufacturer to manufacturer, most engines in the last ten years are useing different materials with tighter torlorences, they require lighter weights to lube properly, our boat engines are old technology, looser tollerences , under extreem loads and always under load unlike cars and trucks, and require heavyer viscosity.
Frequency of change is next most importent item, boats are in a harsh inviroment and should be serviced every 50hrs or 6 months, if you are heavyly ballasted trans should be serviced everytime also due to the heat build up.
As far as brand, everybody has an opinion , but I can pull a valve cover off an engine and 9 out of 10 times can tell you what brand of oil was being used due to the varnish build up.
And dont skimp on the quality of the oil filters.
Another thing linked to oil failure and commonly over looked in boats is thermstat, and I dont mean overheating, runnind to cold is worst letting lots of contamants go into the oil.
Well thats my 2 cents worth.

[Wickedcummins]

A 15-40 will run at 40 weight at temp.but thicken more cold. A 5w-40 will be thinner when cold and run at40 hot

[wired1236]

I would be curious of the results if a suvey was done by asking the mechanics or manufactures how many engines they have seen that were damaged due to improper TYPE of oil.

I've talked to a few mechanics (and seen posts on other forums) that have never seen an engine problem due to the "wrong type" BUT they have seen many problems caused by no oil or oil that was never changed.

[IDBoating]

The only reason I stick with the engine manufacturers oil specs. and not any oil companys specs, the manufacture has more testing of their engines and materials then the oil companys data, just my take.

x2, plus if you use what the manufacturer recommends there can be no warranty questions about "You used the wrong lubricant".