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Thread: Servicing Your Transmission and V-Drive

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Lake Wylie area, NC
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    28,217
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    Back in the good ol' days a 2006 22ve

    Servicing Your Transmission and V-Drive

    *NOTE OF CAUTION* Check your owners manual for specific information such as fluid type and capacity.

    Boat: 06 22Ve
    Transmission: Borg-Warner Velvet Drive 10-17-004, 1:1/ Fluid type = Dexron III ATF / Capacity = 2qt
    V-Drive: Walter RV26D / Fluid Type = 30w NON-Detergent oil. (RV10-RV50 use 30w oil. RV61-RV91 use an ISO VG 68 such as Shell Omala 68 or Exxon Spartan EP 68) / Capacity = 1qt

    V-drive ID tag with model #. Cant see til seat box is removed.


    Let side, middle of pic is V-drive fill plug. Right side bottom corner of pic is dip-stick.


    1) Remove "seat box" by removing 5 screws from the carpeted strip to gain access to 3 screws holding box to floor. Remove main engine side panels and then the "wing" panels




    From storage compartment, remove 2 bolts (one on each side) from back of seat box. Lift out and set aside.




    2) Check fluid level now. Use this, compared to amount removed and capacity, to ensure that you get it refilled to proper level as fluid temp and boat angle will effect reading on dip-stick.

    Because I was unsure of how much I would be able to remove, I refilled to 3/4 of recommended capacity and check fluid level and compared it to the pre-drain levels I noted before I started, and added in increments til full.

    Conventional wisdom say to warm the fluids up to speed draining. Reality.....Both these are cooled by cold water and will not produce much, if any, heat with just the engine idling. Running in gear while out of water is not recommended as the strut bearing is cooled/lubed with water.

    3) Remove fluid from transmission



    4) Slide catch pan under V-drive and pull drain plug. I could get some fluid out of the dip-stick hole, but not all of it. Once empty, reinstall drain plug and tighten. Refill both V-drive and Trans to proper levels and clean up any spills. Reinstall seat box.

    I'ld recommend doing this once a year as part of your winterizing routine



    This last pic shows the water drain plug for the V-drive cooler.



    Total time = 1hr
    Last edited by chpthril; 10-30-2007 at 01:03 AM.
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Polk City, Iowa 50226
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    08 RZ2
    chpthril
    Great right up. I was wondering how to service the tranny. I will have to get that done next spring.

    Sam

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    CA
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    2002 21v riders
    Are ther any filters to checked, cleaned or replaced for either the tran or v-drive?

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Back in the good ol' days a 2006 22ve
    Quote Originally Posted by jsz View Post
    Are ther any filters to checked, cleaned or replaced for either the tran or v-drive?
    Good question. The V-drive does have a screen that can be removed and cleaned. The manual reads as fallows.

    "Disconnect oil hose leading from the #43s strainer (leave the elbow on the strainer). Unscrew the strainer and clean the outside surface. Reinstall the strainer and reconnect the oil hose."

    http://www.tigeowners.com/downloads/walter_vdrive.pdf

    As for the transmission, I don't see anything. The only other thing would to be sure to drain the water (if you dont use anti-freeze) from the trans cooler when you winterize.
    Last edited by chpthril; 10-30-2007 at 03:04 PM.
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
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    Polk City, Iowa 50226
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    08 RZ2
    One question if you run antifreeze through the trans you should not have to drain. I ran 7 gal through my trans and engine. I did not drain any part of the system. I hope that is correct. The antifreeze if -50 below so I didn't feel the need to drain.

    Sam

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Tucson, AZ
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    2005 24V Limited
    Thanks-hope to do this tomorrow.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Pier 121
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    2001 V2300

    Done!

    It was windy out there, but at least it was close to 80...We got out to the lake, had some cold ones and did the oil, V-drive, and tranny fluids...

    Everything went well, but I did notice one thing with the tranny fluid. When I pulled the sucker tube out - it had some nasty sludge on it (almost looked like motor oil) Re-inserting the tube in there and pulling it out produced more nasty looking stuff.

    Is there a way to get the transmission flushed? Should I be worried about this? Definetly did not look good...

  8. That is great,
    what about engine specifications?
    the training is the main part
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  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Dallas, TX
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    15
    Boat
    2006 24Ve
    I'm having a hard time telling how much fluid I have in the V-Drive because it's so clear on the dipstick. Any tips? It looks like it's high, is that a threat?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Bothell, WA
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    41
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    7
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    1995 Open Bow
    Quote Originally Posted by Yadatbeme View Post
    I'm having a hard time telling how much fluid I have in the V-Drive because it's so clear on the dipstick. Any tips? It looks like it's high, is that a threat?
    If it's transparent, it's really clean! Don't mess with it. The main reason to change the oil is due to breakdown from overheating. Think about the rear differential in a truck. The gears can run in the same oil for decades. I suspect that most automotive differential fluid is never checked. Unless you're creating excessive heat from towing or a lot of highway miles, lubricating fluid will last a long time. In a boat, you have more heat as the gearbox is right next to the engine. I go 2-3 years before the oil changes color or even smells remotely burned. However we do more putting around than skiing.

    A little overfilled isn't a big deal. These are just dummy oil bath gearboxes.

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Back in the good ol' days a 2006 22ve
    Quote Originally Posted by Bread View Post
    If it's transparent, it's really clean! Don't mess with it. The main reason to change the oil is due to breakdown from overheating. Think about the rear differential in a truck. The gears can run in the same oil for decades. I suspect that most automotive differential fluid is never checked. Unless you're creating excessive heat from towing or a lot of highway miles, lubricating fluid will last a long time. In a boat, you have more heat as the gearbox is right next to the engine. I go 2-3 years before the oil changes color or even smells remotely burned. However we do more putting around than skiing.

    A little overfilled isn't a big deal. These are just dummy oil bath gearboxes.
    IMO, the more important reason to service the V-drive and transmission fluids in a boat is to remove the built up moisture/condensation. Stowing her away for a 5-6 month winters nap with water in the v-drive and trans is not a good thing
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  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Bothell, WA
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    1995 Open Bow
    Quote Originally Posted by chpthril View Post
    IMO, the more important reason to service the V-drive and transmission fluids in a boat is to remove the built up moisture/condensation. Stowing her away for a 5-6 month winters nap with water in the v-drive and trans is not a good thing
    The gearboxes are well sealed from outside water getting inside, however some moisture can enter through the trans dipstick through heating/cooling cycles. Or if you half sink your boat from waves coming over the bow like I do

    That said, oil is lighter than water, so any moisture will be sitting at the bottom of the case below the gears. The trans might have issues sooner due to the oil pump picking up and cycling anything in the case. But you're right. Potential moisture intrusion is another good reason to change it! I'm all for preventative maintenance of any kind

  13. Great Post!!! The pictures are clear and they take the edge off the fear of trying out new preventative maintenance. Thanks for the help!

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  15. im a newb and i will be wrenchin on my own boat...great info in this write up! thanks chpthril !!!

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