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Thread: Kyle's 24V Stereo Upgrade

  1. #31
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    Back in the good ol' days a 2006 22ve
    Yes, the 1/0 red will go from switch to breaker, breaker to amp wall area to distribution block. Black 1/0 from which ever battery is closer or has the least amount of rings on it, to the amp wall to distro. You should have enough 1/0 for that. Id run those first, then any leftover, use it to upgrade the engine/switch cables if they are indeed that small.
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  2. #32
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    Aug 2015
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    Riverside, CA
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    2005 Tige 24V RE
    Thanks Mike. With regards to the distribution block, for some reason I am looking at this thing and not sure how to split both 1/0 power and ground wires into the 4 GA jumpers for each amp. Can you help figure out which numbered connections should be the 1/O inputs and which should be the 4GA outputs? It seems clear I will run the 1/0 red power wire into #3 and then 4ga outputs to each amp from #6 and #7. But if that is the case which connections should I use for ground? All remaining connections look to be 1/0 GA so where do the 4GA ground wires come from?

    1.jpg

    Also, what the heck are these things you included in the kit? lol

    2.jpg

  3. #33
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    Back in the good ol' days a 2006 22ve
    # = 1/0 GND in
    #6 & 7 = 4ga out to amps
    #1 & 2 = 1/0 POS in. They are connected, so plug into which ever you want.
    #4 & 5 are the 5ga POS out to amps
    Bridge your amp fuses under the screws #1 to #4 and #2 to #5

    Those are solder pellets to melt in the terminal ends to connect the cables.
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  4. #34
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    Nov 2018
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    2007 22VE
    Those solder pellets are the bomb too. Made for some bitching battery terminal connections for us!


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  5. #35
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    Aug 2015
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    Riverside, CA
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    2005 Tige 24V RE
    Thank you for the help Mike and Brent!

    I was able to run my 1/0 AWG power and ground wires, install the fuse, and work on the Perko switch. The cables running from the battery to the Perko switch are 2AWG wires. The grounds from the batteries are also 2AWG and go up to a large ground post mounted above the batteries. From the Perko switch out there is a 1/0 AWG running to the starter and now my 1/0 AWG cable running up to the amps. The ground for the starter is also 1/0 AWG running to the large ground post (pictured below).

    1) is it okay that the cables attached to the battery are 2AWG vs 0AWG?. I imagine so since this is only about a 2-3ft run to the Perko switch and then from there on it is all 0AWG.

    2) See the picture of the large ground post. There are quite a few ground wires attached here and almost no room for the nut to screw on. There are two nuts sandwiching the ground wires. Can I remove the first nut so that I have more room on the post for the ground wires? This way the second nut can screw on further. Does this impact the grounding ability at all?

    1.jpg

    Pic of sample connection
    IMG_9500.jpg

    Fuse block
    IMG_9505.jpg

  6. #36
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    Nov 2018
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    2007 22VE
    Mike probably has some informed opinions. I ran all 1/0. You know what they say, do it once and do it right. Will it work with the 1 gauge? Probably. Is it best? Meh.

    On the ground block, not sure what the second nut is for, but you could move some grounds to your batteries. It’s all the same Bus.


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  7. #37
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    Back in the good ol' days a 2006 22ve
    2ga between the switch and batteries and batteries and the remote ground stud, is much better then 4. if the cables and terminals look, id roll on.

    That remote stud looks home brew. Hard to say if that nut is serving a purpose or taking up space. Gut says, its just a bolt, and that inner nut secures the bolt to the base. If so, you could swap the bolt out for a longer bolt.

    Did you build that cable thats in the loom and mounted to the other side of the breaker, from the red cable with red heat shrink? One of those should be coming off the switch's common output and the other goes to the amp wall.
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  8. #38
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    Aug 2015
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    2005 Tige 24V RE
    Quote Originally Posted by chpthril View Post
    2ga between the switch and batteries and batteries and the remote ground stud, is much better then 4. if the cables and terminals look, id roll on.

    Did you build that cable thats in the loom and mounted to the other side of the breaker, from the red cable with red heat shrink? One of those should be coming off the switch's common output and the other goes to the amp wall.
    You have quite the eye for mistakes Mike! After installing the breaker this way I realized I did not have things configured right. There was an 80 amp breaker in this location originally. It had a common B+ line from the Perko switch to the Ba.t terminal connection on this 80amp breaker and then that loomed wire was connected on the output. I originally just swapped the 80 amp with the 150amp breaker. I now realize this loomed output is factory and powers other things (I assume radio, helm electronics, lights, etc.) so I put back the 80amp breaker.

    Last night I configured an 0AWG output from the common output on the Perko to the 150 amp breaker battery terminal connection and then my long run up to amp wall comes off the output of the breaker. It looks like the previously installed amp did not have any dedicated breaker protection because it was powered directly from the Perko switch with no in line breaker!


    As for the little blade looking fuses that screw into the terminals on the distro. block on the amp wall....which fuse should go where? I have a 100A and 80A fuse. Maybe the 100A fuse should go with the more powerful amp that powers the sub? 80amp fuse for the alpine amp that is going to power tower speakers?

  9. #39
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    Here are photos of my work on the Perko switch, breaker, distribution block, and amp wiring. On to the speakers and RCA cables now!

    2.jpg
    1.jpg

  10. #40
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    Mike,

    I am having some confusion about how to configure the RCA cables from the WS-220 to the amps. For each zone on the WS-220 there are two outputs but each amp has 4 inputs (L & R front, L & R rear). I didn't plan on making each side (L&R their own zones but rather one zone for tower, one for sub, and one for boat. I originally wanted to make the bow its' own zone but can't do this since each side bow speaker is wired parallel with each size midship speaker.

    Zone 1 R&L will go to dedicated tower amplifier but how do I know to hook to front R&L or rear R&L?
    Zone 2 will be the subwoofer I suppose and that will hook up easy and predictably.
    Zone 3 should be all boat speakers. if so, what RCA connections on the amp do I use?

    How can I go from 2 cables from out of the WS-220 to 4 cables at the amp? I must be missing something?

  11. #41
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    Back in the good ol' days a 2006 22ve
    Ok, looks like a chnl for the in-boats and woofer and 4 chnl alpine for the tower.

    Zone 1 R&L will go to dedicated tower amplifier but how do I know to hook to front R&L or rear R&L?
    Zone 1 to alpine 4 chnl and plug into Frt L&R. Should be a mode switch you will set to 2 chnl mode.

    Zone 2 will be the subwoofer I suppose and that will hook up easy and predictably.
    You can choose whichever zone (2 through 4) you want for woofer and they will connect to the 2 sub inputs on the amp. The Sub's "CONFIG" switch needs to be moved to "5".

    Zone 3 should be all boat speakers. if so, what RCA connections on the amp do I use?

    Plug this zone (or whichever you want to use for in-boats, 2-4) into the javelin's Frt L&R and the what ever speaker are connected to chnls 1&2 will be controlled by that zone

    Zone 4 (or whichever of 2-4 is left unused) will connect to the javelin's RR L&R and what ever speakers are connected to chnls 3&4 will be controlled by that zone.
    Last edited by chpthril; 11-14-2019 at 12:13 AM.
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  12. #42
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    Thanks Mike. I think I get it now. Each set of RCAs L&R front and L&R rear control two channels each on a four channel amp. On the 5 ch amp the dedicated sub channel has its own set of RCAs.

    You are correct the alpine amp is 4 channel amp. I think I can bridge 1 and 2 and 3 and 4 to make it a 2 channel outputs of sorts. I don't know if there is a switch or not but I will check. My original plan was to run 4 KM8 tower speakers, one on each channel of the 4-ch alpine amp because this seemed to be the way to yield the most watts to the 4 speakers. But it sounds like if I wanted to do this it would need to take up two zones on the WS-220? because each set of RCAs send a signal to just two speaker channels each? This doesn't sound like a good idea since only zone 1 mutes for the PA system on the WS-220. Or, is there such an RCA cable that has one set of connections (two plugs) one end to come out of the WS-220 and then two connections (4 plugs) on the other end at the amp so both the L&R front and L&R rear channels receive the same signal? (not sure if this exists )

    As for the Exile audio Javelin amp - it sounds like I have no choice but to run two zones for the in boat speakers and then of course one zone for the sub. I was hoping to control all 6 in boat speakers with one zone sine the bow speakers are not wired independently. They are wired port/starboard with the back salon speakers. Right now...

    Ch 1 powers two 6.5 speakers wired together (one bow and one salon, both on port side)
    Ch 2 powers two 6.5 speakers wired together (one bow and one salon, both on starboard side)

    So these would be a zone.

    then...

    Ch 3 powers 1, 8" speaker midship
    Ch 4 powers 1, 8" speaker aft

    this is another zone.

    Sub - third zone.

    Unless the cable I mention above exists so that all 4 speaker channels can receive the same input signal, is there no way to power all the in boat speakers by one zone?

  13. #43
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    Back in the good ol' days a 2006 22ve
    With 4 tower speakers and one 4 chnl amps, the BEST wiring method IS to have one speaker wired per chnl. This is the best for amp and will net you the amp's available wattage.

    We can make that 4 chnl amp a single volume zone with only one L&R RCA cable. Simply connect to the RCA FRONT L&R. Input switch is #12 in the manual https://www.manualslib.com/manual/75...page=11#manual

    You can set the 4 in-boat channels of the exile javelin to be one volume zone if you want. However, you may need to split a single pair of RCA and populate all 4 RCA inputs on the amp if you generation javelin does not have the 2/4/5 CONFIG switch.

    Dont hesitate to call or text if you get into it this weekend and need a quick answer.
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  14. #44
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    Thank you!

    Sounds like I have the tower speaker amp figured out with a simple flick of a switch to 1/2! This is awesome! Now to run 4 sets of speaker wire through the Phat Budde tower hahaha (no easy task)

    As for the Javelin, it does have a 2, 4, 6 config switch. If I wanted channels 1-4 to all run on the same input signal, i.e. one zone (I assume RCAs plugged into the Front L&R) I imagine I need to have this switch on "2?" "Splitting the RCA cables" seems complicated.

    Javelin amp controls are below. Sadly I am going to have little time to work this weekend. My 19 month old daughter is sick and throwing up. ahhhhh fatherhood hahah.

    2019-11-16_08-12-51.jpg
    Last edited by kjohnson709; 11-16-2019 at 04:22 PM.

  15. #45
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    Back in the good ol' days a 2006 22ve
    Try the javelin set to "2". It appears that the input switch may be for the woofer's signal. One of two things i think, is going to occur. Either the woofer will get its signal from the in-boats' RCA input. This means its volume will go up and down with the in-boats. Or, chnls 3&4 will not play unless you split the in-boat RCA and plug into all four of those front and rear RCA inputs. At this point, the CONFIG switch will have to be moved to "6", meaning its signal is coming in on the SUB inputs.
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