I suppose I'll have to look in to getting one for my boat. Never had an issue so far but I'm all for doing it properly. Thanks for the info guys!
I suppose I'll have to look in to getting one for my boat. Never had an issue so far but I'm all for doing it properly. Thanks for the info guys!
I think having too much power is like too much money or too good looking.
I have not seen a charger available in many years that does not have continuous monitoring of the battery voltage and adjustments in the charging algorithm to avoid overcharging ('smart chargers'). All of the house and car fires helped to eliminate them. To put it in perspective, my last boat had a 90 amp alternator, and I think the lowest amp alternator I have seen is 50 amps in any modern wakeboat. So you are not going to hurt a battery with any onboard charger I have ever seen. Some will just be slower than others. Having more amps will help to recondition a weak battery by causing some of the sulfation to return to the liquid as well.
Be excellent to one another.
A couple comments.... I agree with everything said so far.
Winter also kills batteries. I run a tender on everything I own that doesn't get daily use. That includes the boat, the sports car, and I even have a solar smart charger from Noco on my diesel truck which sits a lot. It saves you hundreds in batteries and I've had batteries last ten years with a good tender.
Secondly i noticed the new Tige's are running 230A alternators now. That is crazy and likely the result of conversations just like this.
A 230A alt is huge. Stock or standard? Im wondering if this was driven in part, by Supra's electrical issues with their 6 impeller pump ballast systems.
Even then, its still limited on its impact on a large Ah bank and how long the ride is after leaving the party spot after 8 hrs of chillin. I can still see a place for an on-board charger. Then, it still offers nothing for when the boat is off the lake.
Dont the on-board charger's rated amperage worry you. A 30A will not over charge a battery any more then a 3A. Faster is part of it, but also having enough bulk charge to "kick the battery in its @$$" and getting it going. Heavily depleted batteries can be stubborn to charge back up properly, with out a high level in the bulk stage. A low slow rate to start, and the battery may not get past the de-sulfate stage. Charger amps is like HP/torque in a tow rig, you cant really have to much.
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Is a 230 Amp alternator so big that it actually requires extra fuel to turn it? Or does it do fine with a typical belt at a typical idle speed?
Be excellent to one another.
It would be relevant to load, but yes, a larger alternator can eat more horse power, compared to a lesser output alt.
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I believe it puts out 120amps at idle which is crazy. Standard on all engines except the 360. Also the fuel/water separator and the positive bus bar on top of the trans are standard on 400 and above.
It's dangerous to go alone! Take this.
Is that for all Raptors?
The fuel water separator is sweet! They included a test port for fuel pressure. Before you had to install a special adapter up under the cats on the stbd side. made doing a simple test a little bit of a chore. I posted it up a while back around here but you can order it as a kit and retro it onto older Raptors as well. If it was my boat I would be all about it. Without it you are relying on the mesh at the bottom of the fuel pump assembly. Ive never seen solid numbers but I would bet dollars to donuts the fuel water sep filter has a better micron rating than the screens at the pickup.
Last edited by freeheel4life; 02-12-2019 at 05:54 PM.
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