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Thread: Leaky Connections

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Lake Wylie area, NC
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    Back in the good ol' days a 2006 22ve
    Quote Originally Posted by freeheel4life View Post
    I'm curious now. Do you use the plastic clamps with serrated teeth or are you using Oetiker clamps??
    For all the connections at or close to the sac, we use the snap-clamps. For those that have a pair of pinch pliers, we also stock 3 sizes of stainless pinch clamps that can be used through out the ballast system.

    I NEVER suggest worm gear clamps at the sac. too easy to cut a sac or finger.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Austin, TX
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    476
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    2015 RZ4
    Hey Mike,

    Your inbox is full, so thought I'd post this in here. To recap, I was having some problems with my Flow right quick connects. For one, they have been very difficult to connect and disconnect. Two, They have been leaking. Which I asked about sealant for in this thread. I ended up going with the permatex aviation #3 as it was available locally. Well, when I started pulling my quick connects, I noticed almost all of them were collapsed down in on themselves when looking down into the tube. I guess from over tightening? I tried using the permatex to close everything up, but honestly it has just made a mess. Ozzing into the actual tubing of the quick connects and overall just sticking to everything. This probably goes above its intended use. So I don't blame the permatex. But, I'm afraid I'm going to have to replace all my quick connects.

    My questions is, do you actually use sealant at all when doing these quick connect instals from scratch? I see Flow Right actually recommends PVC cement. But it seems like most guys don't use anything. Do you think these bent in from over tightening? I guess I don't really see what I'm doing wrong here. It seems like a simple process that I keep screwing up. But I think I need to start over.

    Caleb
    Last edited by BlackoutATX; 08-03-2018 at 06:33 PM.
    BABz - babzusa.com
    Austin, TX

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Lake Wylie area, NC
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    Back in the good ol' days a 2006 22ve
    they have been very difficult to connect and disconnect
    pure silicon lube on the orings will prevent this and make the orings last longer.

    They have been leaking. Which I asked about sealant for in this thread.
    With a 2 piece connection, we have 3 spots to leak, each with its own fix

    Threads into the sac. There should be a oring on the male thread part that seats against the sac that does 99% of the sealing. Gluing the threads helps prevent the fittings from backing off, and the compressed oring losing tension. The glue really does not do the sealing.

    Between the male sac fitting and female hose fitting; There 1 or 2 orings that could be dry, cut or missing. Time to replace. Lube will prolong them but likely not fix even a dry oring.

    Hose to hose barb. Tighten or mis-positioned clamp, lose clamp, cut hose.

    Well, when I started pulling my quick connects, I noticed almost all of them were collapsed down in on themselves when looking down into the tube. I guess from over tightening?
    Not sure I follow this, do you have a pic of whats collapsed?
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Austin, TX
    Posts
    476
    Boat
    2015 RZ4

    Leaky Connections

    Quote Originally Posted by chpthril View Post
    pure silicon lube on the orings will prevent this and make the orings last longer.



    With a 2 piece connection, we have 3 spots to leak, each with its own fix

    Threads into the sac. There should be a oring on the male thread part that seats against the sac that does 99% of the sealing. Gluing the threads helps prevent the fittings from backing off, and the compressed oring losing tension. The glue really does not do the sealing.

    Between the male sac fitting and female hose fitting; There 1 or 2 orings that could be dry, cut or missing. Time to replace. Lube will prolong them but likely not fix even a dry oring.

    Hose to hose barb. Tighten or mis-positioned clamp, lose clamp, cut hose.



    Not sure I follow this, do you have a pic of whats collapsed?

    I will keep that in mind about the silicon lube. My leaks are coming from where the hose meets the quick connects. The quick connects were added in line to my factory Tige Surf XL bags so I could take them out when I wanted. So where the male quick connect fits into the clear hose.

    I will get you a pic when I get back home on Sunday. But attached is a drawing of what I mean. When looking down into the quick connects, in is collapsed/warped in at some points. The top of the pic represents what a new quick connect would look like.
    Last edited by BlackoutATX; 08-03-2018 at 08:19 PM.
    BABz - babzusa.com
    Austin, TX

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