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Thread: Sudden loud hissing from the front two speakers

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by chpthril View Post
    For that budget, why not go with a WS-420? Theres your 3 dedicated output + zone control. Leave the MA unit as is.
    Would the 420 just cut the MA unit out altogether? Have you seen a HU go out like this before Chp?

  2. #17
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    Would the 420 cut the MA? not really, as it would go in between the MA and amps. Only needs a single RCA pair into it, to give you 3 outputs. The MA unit will still be the master unit that turns the amp and 420 on/off. Still be the portal for BT, Tuner, USB, etc (what ever the MA unit has).

    I would do this, or stretch the budget and go with the MC1 now.
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  3. #18
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    If you are truly limited to $300 then I would either spend $320 on the 420 because you can always upgrade the HU later if you feel you need to. Or stretch a little more for the PMX-2 and PMX-0R for $399. Problem with the MC-1 if you are trying to save liquid funds is that the remote will be another $199 on top of the $699 for the HU
    Last edited by dj2; 06-19-2018 at 01:07 AM.

  4. #19
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    Is there currently a transom remote?

    R/F display remote is same price.
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  5. #20
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    I guess that would be a good question, I assumed he currently had a transom remote already because he asked about the PMX-0, I never looked at that HU because the loss of a display and no xm radio functionality. I almost bought the -0R remote but opted for the -1R to have the display on the transom also.

    My bad...

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by chpthril View Post
    Is there currently a transom remote?

    R/F display remote is same price.
    No I don't have a transom remote right now. My main concern with the 420 is if it doesn't eliminate the MA what happens if it's the MA head unit that's bad itself? Wouldn't the MA sending a bad signal down the left side still come out the 420? I'm going to go back over everything tonight just to be absolutely sure it's the head unit and not one of the RCA's or KISLOC (shouldn't be considering the KISLOC is brand new).

  7. #22
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    The MA is feeding the tower amp via RCA correct? No noise from towers right?
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  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by chpthril View Post
    The MA is feeding the tower amp via RCA correct? No noise from towers right?
    No tower speakers. The MA is feeding into a HTX-6 via KISLOC then RCA....the HTX-6 is driving 6 in boats. The MA's own single RCA out is going into an HTX-1 that is driving a Revo12 sub. Is there a way I could swap the KISLOC to the sub and then the RCA out from the MA head unit to the HTX-6?

  9. #24
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    Excuse me for not being too up to speed on that MA unit. I have no need or desire to ever suggest or install one, so I have not boned up on it since I dont have a need here in the shop.

    Is the RCA out a full range or sub only?

    If full range, then swap the RCA between the HTX-1 and HTX-6. I doubt you will ever hear that noise through the woofer, so makes it a non-issue for now.
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  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by chpthril View Post
    Excuse me for not being too up to speed on that MA unit. I have no need or desire to ever suggest or install one, so I have not boned up on it since I dont have a need here in the shop.

    Is the RCA out a full range or sub only?

    If full range, then swap the RCA between the HTX-1 and HTX-6. I doubt you will ever hear that noise through the woofer, so makes it a non-issue for now.
    Awesome man I'll keep my fingers crossed that this works. Will the sub be missing out on any power and/or being exposed to potential risk if the left side is bad? Tonight I am going to swap the two RCA's and if the RCA from the MA is clean on all 6 inboats I think I'll go with a 420. It's a personal problem but I have a "tick" whenever I know something isn't working correctly and I have a jerry rigged system making it work lol...

    According to the user manual for the MA300 the RCA pair out of the head unit are "2 Channel pre-amp line level outputs" ......I'm assuming those are full audio outs then....hopefully this works...
    Last edited by BurnMac42; 06-20-2018 at 01:02 PM.

  11. #26
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    I would not worry about this damaging the woofer. Seems like the output is there, just corrupt on that one chnl. But to the woofer and amp, it just looks like an audio signal. Good chance the low-pass setting may filter the noise and you wont hear it from the woofer.

    That RCA description sounds full range. I would expect it to expressly state sub or woofer if low-pass only, or indicate its selectable full or low.

    So try swapping and see. This might get you by until you are ready to make a permanent fix.
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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by chpthril View Post
    I would not worry about this damaging the woofer. Seems like the output is there, just corrupt on that one chnl. But to the woofer and amp, it just looks like an audio signal. Good chance the low-pass setting may filter the noise and you wont hear it from the woofer.

    That RCA description sounds full range. I would expect it to expressly state sub or woofer if low-pass only, or indicate its selectable full or low.

    So try swapping and see. This might get you by until you are ready to make a permanent fix.
    Well, I am stumped. I swapped the RCA's and the problem persisted thru the in-boats. It did not follow to the sub so my only guess now is somehow something inside the HU itself is sending a bad signal to whatever the red RCA side is....

    Anyone ever see this before? A HU going bad like this? At this point I'll have to get in touch with my dealer because I believe the HU is covered under the Tige warranty but I'm a little worried they won't cover it because I put the amps in aftermarket....Ideally they will just credit me the amount for a replacement MA300 and I'll order a better HU thru my dealer...if not I'm out of ideas other than changing out the HU....

  13. #28
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    So you've got an issue that is corrupting ALL the audio output on the head unit, both high and low level. OR, the issue is down stream at the amp.

    thinking.
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  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by chpthril View Post
    So you've got an issue that is corrupting ALL the audio output on the head unit, both high and low level. OR, the issue is down stream at the amp.

    thinking.
    Not sure what you mean by high and low level but what happened is I switched the RCAs. Originally I had the HU->KISLOC->HTX-6 driving the 6 inboats. 3 of the 6 speakers have static in them. When I unplug the single Red RCA the static goes away, and the remaining 3 speakers are clean and sound good. If I plug the white RCA cable (the one that was playing the 3 clean speakers) into where I just unplugged the red RCA the hissing moves to the other 3 speakers (the ones that were previously clean)...So basically the static follows that red RCA.

    This afternoon I swapped which amp was plugged into the RCA out of the HU. So instead of the Head Unit's RCA sending signal to the HTX-1 and sub, I changed it so the single HU RCA out was now sending signal to the HTX-6 hoping that the static was being caused by the L+/- and R+/- wires that I had to tap into for the KISLOC. We were hoping that the static would now shift to the sub and the filters would just ignore the static because of the sub.

    Nope.

    The static stayed in 3 of 6 inboats even though they were now being sent music by the RCA out of the HU. My only guess is something within the HU went bad. When this problem originally happened we were by no means pushing this system it was literally playing super soft music, parked in a cove, while my 11 month old slept on the boat. Literally mid-song all of a sudden static started coming in thru 3 speakers....

    Edit:

    So looking at the MA300 Manuel the Red RCA line out is the "line out right". This is the line that the static comes thru along with the right side +/-'s when it's hooked to the KISLOC. So somehow it would appear that the signal the HU sends to the right side only is bad... Not sure how that happens...

    As an interim solution until I figure out the new HU could I hook up the L-/R- and R+/L+ on the KISLOC and basically eliminate the "line out right" signal from the HU? Basicallly sending the "left side out" signal thru both the left and the right of the kisloc but then at least getting a clean signal to all 6 inboats?
    Last edited by BurnMac42; 06-23-2018 at 03:18 PM.

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