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Thread: 2013 Z3 Rudder/Steering Linkage Access

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    55
    Boat
    2013 Z3

    2013 Z3 Rudder/Steering Linkage Access

    Hi all -

    I’m planning to swap out the steering cable on our Z3 in a few days. I’ve read through the how-tos here, but have a simple question. On a Z3, what’s the best/easiest way to get to the rudder? From the port/starboard side rear lockers, I can just barely reach the steering linkage. Is there a trick to this? I’m sure I can get the old cable off... getting the new on may be a trick though!

    Thanks in advance for any insight!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    767
    Boat
    2007 22ve
    Only got 5 years out of the factory cable? That doesn’t seem right. I’ve got an 07’ still on the original and it still turns super smooth.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    55
    Boat
    2013 Z3
    Unfortunately yes... and I’m the second owner, so no way to get it under warranty. Reading through the forums, this issue really seems to be hit or miss. Some people get 2-3 years, some people 5, some people 7-8, etc. I’m thinking this boat spent time on a lift at the lake where it was exposed to constant moisture... which just corroded the cable. I’ll be trailering it from here on and it will be in my garage when not out on the water. Hopefully that will prolong the next cable’s life.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Fort Benton, MT
    Posts
    27
    Boat
    2013 RZ2
    I just replaced my cable on my 2013 RZ2 this summer. It has been trailered and stored inside since new and eventually just was too hard to turn to the left. I removed mine by taking the nut and bolt out where the cable connects to the rudder by leaning thru the starboard rear locker and stretching for it. Then, I removed the large nut on the guide tube by coming in thru the rear port locker and removing the side panels. Mine came off easily although I remember reading that some were frozen on. I then tied a piece of paracord to the end of the cable in order to be able to pull the new one back through without having to fish it through all the tight spots. Then, remove the panels in the front starboard locker in front of the helm and you should be able to see the cable mixed in with the heater hoses, etc. I had my son under the helm pulling while I pushed it through the locker access. Same for reinstalling. Some cables are routed under the gas tank but mine was over the top which was much easier. Make sure you get the extreme version of the new cable. I'm not 100% sure on the number, but I think the 13 at the beginning of the number is replaced by a 15 on the Teleflex branded cable. The extreme is supposed to last much longer. Good luck.

    Quote Originally Posted by arohyans View Post
    Hi all -

    I’m planning to swap out the steering cable on our Z3 in a few days. I’ve read through the how-tos here, but have a simple question. On a Z3, what’s the best/easiest way to get to the rudder? From the port/starboard side rear lockers, I can just barely reach the steering linkage. Is there a trick to this? I’m sure I can get the old cable off... getting the new on may be a trick though!

    Thanks in advance for any insight!!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    1,173
    You may be able to stretch in from starboard locker as above posted, ive done them that way as well. I'm a big guy and to save the hassle I usually pull the port side battery (be sure to zip tie leads together or label, however you keep track of it), then just pull the hdpe panels at rear of locker. Doesn t take that long and gives you lots more room to work.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    55
    Boat
    2013 Z3
    Quote Originally Posted by freeheel4life View Post
    You may be able to stretch in from starboard locker as above posted, ive done them that way as well. I'm a big guy and to save the hassle I usually pull the port side battery (be sure to zip tie leads together or label, however you keep track of it), then just pull the hdpe panels at rear of locker. Doesn t take that long and gives you lots more room to work.
    Never thought of this! I have the batteries removed and on trickle charge. Wouldn't take much to remove the paneling as well. Thanks for the tip!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    55
    Boat
    2013 Z3
    Quote Originally Posted by montanafarmer View Post
    I just replaced my cable on my 2013 RZ2 this summer. It has been trailered and stored inside since new and eventually just was too hard to turn to the left. I removed mine by taking the nut and bolt out where the cable connects to the rudder by leaning thru the starboard rear locker and stretching for it. Then, I removed the large nut on the guide tube by coming in thru the rear port locker and removing the side panels. Mine came off easily although I remember reading that some were frozen on. I then tied a piece of paracord to the end of the cable in order to be able to pull the new one back through without having to fish it through all the tight spots. Then, remove the panels in the front starboard locker in front of the helm and you should be able to see the cable mixed in with the heater hoses, etc. I had my son under the helm pulling while I pushed it through the locker access. Same for reinstalling. Some cables are routed under the gas tank but mine was over the top which was much easier. Make sure you get the extreme version of the new cable. I'm not 100% sure on the number, but I think the 13 at the beginning of the number is replaced by a 15 on the Teleflex branded cable. The extreme is supposed to last much longer. Good luck.
    Thanks! This is what I was planning to do as well. I've got a buddy for a second set of hands... but we're both pretty big guys. Hopefully we can make this work

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Boise, ID
    Posts
    1,173
    Quote Originally Posted by arohyans View Post
    Thanks! This is what I was planning to do as well. I've got a buddy for a second set of hands... but we're both pretty big guys. Hopefully we can make this work
    IF he's that big you may consider pulling port side plastics as well as it's a long reach to come in from port side to help out. Or You can sometimes lay on top of engine and reach over top to help. Good luck

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    767
    Boat
    2007 22ve
    Quote Originally Posted by arohyans View Post
    Unfortunately yes... and I’m the second owner, so no way to get it under warranty. Reading through the forums, this issue really seems to be hit or miss. Some people get 2-3 years, some people 5, some people 7-8, etc. I’m thinking this boat spent time on a lift at the lake where it was exposed to constant moisture... which just corroded the cable. I’ll be trailering it from here on and it will be in my garage when not out on the water. Hopefully that will prolong the next cable’s life.
    Now that I opened my big mouth I’ll undoubtedly be replacing mine this season!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    469
    Boat
    Tigé
    Its typically not too bad unless you have a 22ve/24ve with rear ballast tanks. Easier to do the job with the tank rotated around. I pull the fuel pump to make it easier to rotate.

    Mark where the cable cover goes. You can cut that hole opening a little larger to make pushing the cable through a little easier. As long as you can get it in the bilge, it doesnt matter which way it faces. Keep stuffing it in until the cable runs out over the tank, then pull it to find the end.
    It's dangerous to go alone! Take this.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    55
    Boat
    2013 Z3
    Thanks guys... sounds like I've got a fun Saturday ahead of me! I may snap some pics of the process to share on here for those in the same predicament .

  12. #12
    Can you do me a favor and take pictures, and maybe do a write up?

    I've got a 2014 Z3 and my steering wheel is nearly unturnable.

    Last season was my first season having a boat lift, and I had no idea that just having my boat on a lift was putting me at risk of freezing up my steering. I've been debating on whether I need to take it to the dealer or do it myself.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Indianapolis, IN
    Posts
    55
    Boat
    2013 Z3
    Quote Originally Posted by Detonate View Post
    Can you do me a favor and take pictures, and maybe do a write up?

    I've got a 2014 Z3 and my steering wheel is nearly unturnable.

    Last season was my first season having a boat lift, and I had no idea that just having my boat on a lift was putting me at risk of freezing up my steering. I've been debating on whether I need to take it to the dealer or do it myself.
    Would be happy to! I'll post some pics (and the process I used) back to this thread when I finish.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    114
    Boat
    2018 r23
    Quote Originally Posted by Detonate View Post
    Can you do me a favor and take pictures, and maybe do a write up?

    I've got a 2014 Z3 and my steering wheel is nearly unturnable.

    Last season was my first season having a boat lift, and I had no idea that just having my boat on a lift was putting me at risk of freezing up my steering. I've been debating on whether I need to take it to the dealer or do it myself.
    I'm sure you know this now, but you gotta make sure you keep the bilge drained and dry! ever since i started doing that I've had no issues for the past 5-6 years.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  15. #15
    Yep. Hard lesson learned.

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