Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 31

Thread: upgrading my ballast on my tige24ve

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Abbotsford BC Canada
    Posts
    765
    Boat
    2009 Tige 22ve
    Lol. I kinda figured. I wanted to say Abbotsford. I have my boat in the driveway still if you want to come take a look at my set up. I run Aerators. Between stock and what I've installed I'm running 14 pumps altogether.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Abbotsford BC Canada
    Posts
    765
    Boat
    2009 Tige 22ve
    I'm also going to guess Krahn located at the Mill Tower? I remember you had a X9.

    Dave @ NATG....we take care of the phones at your office.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    812
    Boat
    2007 22ve
    Quote Originally Posted by Gkrahn View Post
    Are the only draw backs to running a reversible pump size and cost?
    Reversible pumps can’t be left running dry, It will burn up the impeller. I think that’s the biggest drawback of them. You’ve got to pay attention to them. Aerators on the other hand don’t care if they are wet or dry.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    3,994
    Boat
    2009 24Ve w/ AutoWake, WakeTouch, and Ultra-Ballast
    Quote Originally Posted by Jetdriver View Post
    Reversible pumps can’t be left running dry, It will burn up the impeller. I think that’s the biggest drawback of them. You’ve got to pay attention to them. Aerators on the other hand don’t care if they are wet or dry.
    Also:

    * Much higher current draw for volume pumped (so heavier wire and connectors, you can use lower cost DT/AT series Deutsch connectors with aerators but must use the larger and more expensive DTP/ATP connectors with impellers)

    * Due to the above, it's riskier to run impeller pumps without the engine running since they will drain your batteries faster

    * Noisier

    * Impellers require service, even if not run dry (they wear with time, and during winterization you must be certain to get all water out since the impeller creates a closed volute)

    All of that said, impellers do have advantages over aerators:

    * Only a single pump is required per ballast compartment (they can fill AND drain since they are reversible)

    * They are self priming (e.g. they will draw a vacuum so airlocks generally aren't a problem, whereas aerators must be mounted and routed carefully to avoid this)

    There's no single correct answer. You have to examine your particular situation and make a choice. Chpthril is definitely the guy to consult, AND to purchase from.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Denver, CO
    Posts
    812
    Boat
    2007 22ve
    ^yep

  6. Finally got the boat out for the first time this year with the new bags and i was a little disappointed. I installed two W712 fat sacs in the rear lockers and plumbed them into the factory lines. I'm not sure if the pumps are factory or not but they're red and supposedly flow 1000gph according to the sticker. It seemed to take forever to fill the one bag probably close to 20mins.

    This might sound ridiculous but can you run two aerator pumps to each bag to fill and also have two to empty the same bag running off the same feed and drain lines using Y connectors or would the single 1" line be the limiting factor. i really dont want to drill new holes in the hull if i dont have too.

    I surf regular so i filled the one bag right full and had the other maybe a 1/4 full and then i filled the factory hard tank on the surf side and left the other empty but also filled it later on hoping to improve the wave. There was tons of wash and it was nearly impossible to get a clean wave, Do i need more weight in the front? the swim platform was also in the water which i don't think helped much either

    The factory hard tanks are carpeted looking speaker boxes under the front console and don't look like they hold much weight at all, would i benefit from a w711 fatsac up front?

    I purchased a swell nauticurl this morning hoping that it helps with the wash.

    Thanks for taking the time to read this.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Lake Wylie area, NC
    Age
    49
    Posts
    27,492
    Boat
    Back in the good ol' days a 2006 22ve
    I dont recall an 06 using 1K gph pumps. I thought they were 500 gph. Any way, the .75: hose and fittings really slow down the flow.

    The front hard tanks hold about 150# each.

    Yes, you can run 2 pumps.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Abbotsford BC Canada
    Posts
    765
    Boat
    2009 Tige 22ve
    I think I saw you at Cultus on Sunday

    As Mike said you can Y in extra lines but if you don't like the fill times as is additional pumps is really the only answer. Most older installs were also 3/4" line so I'd double check what you have. Putting holes in the bottom isn't that big of a deal. Only the first one is hard

    My Boat: dual fill/empty Bow
    Hard Tanks: OEM 3/4" fill/empty
    1200lbs Port side sac dual fill/empty on 1" lines
    Starboard Side Y off of one of the above 1" line.
    14 Pumps altogether.

    Lastly, for myself personally I found even with a gate stuck to the side of the boat that I run more of a listed setup rather than dead level or equal sides.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    3,994
    Boat
    2009 24Ve w/ AutoWake, WakeTouch, and Ultra-Ballast
    Quote Originally Posted by BCRider View Post
    Most older installs were also 3/4" line so I'd double check what you have. Putting holes in the bottom isn't that big of a deal. Only the first one is hard
    It's also possible to move to one inch hose by enlarging the existing holes, if there's space above them in the hull to mount the larger pump(s) you want. The trick is to use the hole saw to first cut a hole in a piece of wood, then securely tape that piece of wood centered over the existing hull hole. This will keep the hole saw from "walking around". You'll end up with a nice larger hole as if it was the original.

    Then install one inch throughhulls, one inch pumps, and one inch hose. Voila - you have eliminated all of the flow restriction of 3/4 stuff. That's a huge improvement right there, and then the added flow of larger pumps just makes it even better.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Lake Wylie area, NC
    Age
    49
    Posts
    27,492
    Boat
    Back in the good ol' days a 2006 22ve
    id leave a .75 thru-hull in a heartbeat. There are two great aerator pumps that have .75" inlet anyway. The biggest gain is stepping up to the larger ac fittings. This requires the hose upgrade as well though, cant just go from .75" to 1" sac fittings. With the factory hard tanks, this is likely stumbling block. Those hard tanks are molded with .75" threads.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    rapid city, sd
    Posts
    69
    Boat
    04 22v riders
    I have a 07 rz4 with a very similar hull to yours and we get a great wave. The swim step is going to be a issue. For a quick test take it off and leave it on the beach or trailer and go surf with the same setup and see what a difference it makes. It was cutting in to our wave pretty good and was very difficult to get a clean wave with that. I took 2 pieces of treated plywood and made a quick template and have been using that for 2 years now. I eventually will cut up my fiberglass swim platform to make it shorter.

    Next was the bags. We put the tige surf xl bags in each rear side they hold a ton of weight not quite sure how much but that big hull the more the better especially if its only me driving and my wife surfing. (no fat friends for ballast). I have the 1200 tsunamis one filling and one draining each side. It does take awhile to fill drains quicker. Will probably double my fill pumps this year. With the extra weight I had to prop the boat down and that helped keep my surf speed way better.

    Last thing was the suck gate. I made mine with a metal handle commercial glass mover, 2 shelf brackets some stainless hardware and a plastic cutting board. It cost me about 30 bucks. I just copied a pic i saw on here. It makes a big difference. I was honestly surprised how much of a difference it makes! If you use the suck gate I have found it best to fill the surf side full then 3/4 to full on the non surf side. If we have more than 4-6 adults in the boat i start adding nose weight then. If you surf without the surf gate its all about the list. you want that rub rail on the surfing side to touch the water. With the suck gate fill both *** ends full and start droping weight on the non surf side till you like it.

    If you have any questions shoot me a message and well try and help you out. You should be able to get a great wave with that boat!

  12. Thanks for the replies everyone and yes i was at Cultus on Sunday.

    I tore into the boat this afternoon and pulled out the factory ballast manifold and the red johnson pumps were only 550gph pumps and not 1100gph like the drain pumps on the rear bags. I'm planning on rebuilding the manifold, pumps and hoses after one of the drain pumps on my factory hard tank up front quit working and i didn't even have to look at it before the outlet snapped clean off the pump body.

    The factory manifold is 1"1/2 pvc and is connected to a large rubber hose in the bottom of the hull. Is there anything i should know before i go out and start making a new one with larger outlets?

    I'm also thinking of removing the factory hard tanks up front since they're so small and just buying a W711 fatsac for the bow, is this a good idea or should i just leave them and add additional pumps for the W711?

    What's the fastest aerator pump available? Because of the fatsacs in the rear i have no issue going to an 1"1/8 hose

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Lake Wylie area, NC
    Age
    49
    Posts
    27,492
    Boat
    Back in the good ol' days a 2006 22ve
    What's the fastest aerator pump available?
    3800 GPH
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    NorNev
    Age
    45
    Posts
    6,233
    Boat
    '00 22i Custom Fox Edition
    Sounds like you need to gut the whole system and start over. Are you saying it doesn’t have a shutoff at the thruhull? Just a rubber hose to a plastic manifold?
    You'll get your chance, smart guy.

  15. My current system doesn't have any check valves in it and the last time i went out with the new W712 sacs i noticed i kept having to re fill them as they were loosing water.

    Where exactly should i place check valves in my system since im using all aerator style pumps?
    I've read alot of mixed posts and it seem's you can place them in vent lines, between the bag and the pump and also between the thru hull fitting and the pump?

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •