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Thread: Not your typical Limp Mode....

  1. #16
    He wasn't able to tell which item it was. I've pinned the TPS, and read 0.95-5V at open throttle. I pulled the TPS apart, so I don't think it's that (unless there's a break in the carbon track and I miss the jump in voltage with a digital voltmeter?). I'm going to try to pull apart the throttle body tomorrow.

  2. #17
    If it has a pps code , then why would the mechanic list off , ecu, tps or tach module, he would need to test the pps which is on the shifter and has no corollation to the other items, what was actual code number?

  3. #18
    Would not mess with tps unless you have a specific code for tps, there are several code for DBW, most common is code 81 which covers about 7 items, but you can test the pps and the tps with a volt meter.

  4. #19
    Actual code number was 81. He also said it was throwing a PPS code? He said it was running lean as well. When he had it hooked up to the computer, he said that his scanner was showing no throttle response... basically that the engine was running only off the fuel map. He thought that although the handle was moving at the helm, it was sending a signal to the throttle computer to move the plate, but that the sensor inside the throttle body wasn't relaying the throttle plate position back to the ECU...hence running off map only. It still free revs past 5k, but will throw a code when you hammer on the throttle. I drilled out the rivets, and pulled apart the throttle body - all appears good, and resistance varies as I move the throttle plate.

    I was incorrect when I said I pinned the TPS - I actually pinned the Petal Position Sensor PPS - the 6 pin plug at the handle. That read 0.95V at rest, and 5V at WOT, with the engine not running but power on. Should I be reading the same at the TPS (at the throttle body?)

    Another interesting find... my dual batteries have the negatives hooked together, but the positives seperated by the battery isolator. When I pull the - connecting cable, then engine starts very rough, and throws codes at start up, and won't throttle up. I have hooked both - and + together, but the same issues still occurs, this should have rulled out the dual battery issue, but why such a problem when the - is seperated?

  5. #20
    You said you checked the pps , there is 2 sensors in the pps and 2 sensors in the tps, you have to check both, also you have to watch the pps as you move the handle from neutral to drive and make sure that the pps doesnt drop and then go back up , if it does you have to adjust the shifter or replace pps if no more adjustment.

  6. #21
    I really appreciate the help Dom, thanks. I ordered a new PPS, so we'll see if that makes a difference - it's a $80 gamble. I'll reconfirm both carbon tracks on the PPS are reading correctly, and not dropping out. According to the manual, they are reverse sensing, as in at idle, one should read high, while the other reads low.... redundancy for protection. I'll check for ~0.95V and 5V on both tracks at bottom position.

  7. #22
    Dont forget to check as you move the shifter for a votage change from neutral to drive, even if you put a new sensor on and if the shifter is out of adjustment it will trip the same code.

  8. #23
    Turns out it was the PPS. Took the boat out today, and she ran quite well. The only thing not working is the speedo. I'll dig further. Thanks again Dom for your patience and help!

  9. Quote Originally Posted by sea2sky View Post
    Turns out it was the PPS. Took the boat out today, and she ran quite well. The only thing not working is the speedo. I'll dig further. Thanks again Dom for your patience and help!
    Hi, when you said the PPS, did you mean the Potentiometer control assy that is behind the throttle? I am having same issues. Thanks

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Phoenix
    Posts
    230
    Boat
    2006 24Ve
    Yes..PPS = pot at throttle handle assy at the helm.

  11. my tach its not working and I am having same issues as above/or similar although a replaced the PPS. Could the tach not working also be connected with my issue? I am able to get the engine to rev up in neutral or in gear only if I give it gas fast (punch it), if I do it gradually from idle it does not rev up......puzzled

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Phoenix
    Posts
    230
    Boat
    2006 24Ve
    Fact that tachometer is not working should not be a cause for limp mode. I assume you calibrated the PPS for proper voltage range? Check it again and you might be surprised to find it out of range.

  13. i did calibrate it, but since i had the code already set i did not run. So I went ahead and purchased the diacom software ( which ups just brought it to me) since I am tired of waiting 3-4 weeks just to get it scanned at the dealer. I am heading to the boat to clear codes and see how it runs
    file-11.jpgfile1-4.jpg

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Westminster, MA
    Posts
    56
    Boat
    2006 22i R
    To resurrect an old thread...

    06 22i has same if not similar issue...just got it back from dealers (5 weeks there) grrrr

    They replaces the FI controller and removed from stringer
    Replaced /retired fuse block on top of intake
    And replaced the PPS, They claimed it ran great fro 30 min at water test, didn’t last 5 min when put into lake today, was running fine then dropped to idle only...WTF

    What next???

  15. Hello
    same f**ing issue. (2006 24ve)
    Brand new PPS, I calibrated as seen in the above pictures, runs fine at idle. Dropped in the water yesterday, was fine for about 30 seconds then lost throttle (no response) .
    If I turn it off and restart I regain the power for seconds and then nothing. What is f-up that I am not getting any fault codes, but I can tell boat is going into limp mode ( I purchased the diacom software). I am at a loss here and do not know which direction to go
    Any help will be appreciated

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