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Thread: What oil do you use in your engine?

  1. #46
    Join Date
    May 2014
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    Vancouver Island, BC, Canada
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    2016 RZX3, 2014 R20 with taps 3
    You ran all season with no problems?... Change oil with some proper stuff and everything should remain fine.

  2. #47
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    Feb 2011
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    Calgary, Alberta
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    2013 Tigé Z1 Vx
    I ran all year with RP 15W40 but that bottle said “gasoline and diesel” on it. This bottle, which I put in during winterization, just says “diesel”.

  3. #48
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    Jul 2010
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    2009 24Ve w/ AutoWake, WakeTouch, and Ultra-Ballast
    Don't worry about "gasoline" vs. "diesel" on the label. The oil does not "know" what fuel you're using in the engine. In a properly operating 4 stroke engine the oil and fuel never mix. What they're trying to convey is that some oils are more suited for "heavy duty" applications, and a wakeboat engine DEFINITELY qualifies as a heavy duty application. As Dom Forte once said to me, "It's like asking the engine to pull a truck uphill ALL the time".

    If the oil has the proper rating (often 15W40 in our engines) and the proper certifications (GF numbers and such), it's fine.

  4. #49
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    Feb 2011
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    2013 Tigé Z1 Vx
    It appears to have the diesel certifications, but not the certification PCM is requesting: GF-4/SM.

    IMG_9856.jpg

    I wish I had the bottle from last year to compare. However I know it said gasoline on it. There are pictures all over the internet of it. So perhaps it's exactly the same oil, just with different packaging.

  5. #50
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    Feb 2011
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    2013 Tigé Z1 Vx
    Here is a pic of the oil I used last fall. Although you can't easily tell, it says "For Diesel & Gasoline Engines"

    IMG_4558.jpg

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
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    2009 24Ve w/ AutoWake, WakeTouch, and Ultra-Ballast
    There's a lot of overlap in oil ratings.

    "CK-4 with no spark rating (SM, SN) will still have the phosphorus rating of the older spec CJ-4. In other words, aside from some formula tweaking, it should be very similar in performance and protection for those of you sold on it and currently running it in gas engines. Dual rated oils, such as CK-4/SN, have to conform to the lower phosphorus limits of the spark engine designation. If you think this is confusing, head on over to the Chevron website where the choices for diesel applications are now in the double digits. Add in Ford's hot mess of WSS-M2C171-F1, and usually pretty quiet Powerstroke guys (in comparison to the Cummins crowd anyway) are now circling the room, muttering to themselves, and looking for a Valium."

    In the specific case of Rotella T4 (which I use in our PCM EX343), its certs are on the last page of this document:

    https://rotella.shell.com/en_us/prod.../t4-15w-40.pdf

    ...which includes JASO MA/MA2. To get that JASO rating, it must at least meet API SM, which is a rating for spark-plug equipped gasoline engines. So while it may say "Diesel" on the label, its ratings include those for gasoline engines too (implicitly, if not explicitly).

    Oil ratings are a deep dark rabbit hole. There are countless threads online where people get all wound up about this-or-that rating, or whether that rating even matters, or whether having a catalytic converter changes everything (or not), etc. ad infinitum. If you have some spare days and want to really get into it, stock up on food and drink and visit the forums at https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum.../forum_summary.

    Speaking personally, I've dug deep enough to satisfy myself that Rotella T4 (pure liquid dinosaurs, not synthetic nor a blend) is compatible with my EX343, so that's what I use. I also change the oil and filter religiously every 50 hours and again immediately before winter storage so long term breakdown effects are avoided. YMMV, check your engine manual and any labeling on the engine itself for what weight and ratings they specify. For example, I believe my engine's oil cap specifies different cert's than the engine manual (boat is already in storage so I can't run out and check right now). IIRC, the cap specifies both CJ-4 (diesel) and GF-4 (gasoline) ratings so I suspect PCM considers either rating to be acceptable in the EX343. This would also explain why some oil containers say both "diesel" and "gasoline"... it's entirely possible for them to meet both sets of specs, and if you dig into how the specs overlap a "non-gasoline" oil may in fact meet gasoline specs.

    Have fun!

  7. #52
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    Mar 2014
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    Abbotsford BC Canada
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    2009 Tige 22ve
    I was out picking up all my winterizing supplies today and thought of this thread. I've typically used the Rotella as well but stopped short today as when reading it did just say "diesel". It is what i've used other years but also didn't realize all of these differences in oils. I'll go out tomorrow and pick up the same stuff.

    The other thing I noticed today was the difference in RV Antifreeze. I got the same Winter Proof stuff as JohnnieMo has above but I see some are rated for only plastic pipes and others are only metal or safe for both....being the Winter Proof. It's also been hard to find this year. Usually all the parts places have it. Ended up getting it at Home Depot of all places.

  8. #53
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    2013 Tigé Z1 Vx
    Quote Originally Posted by BCRider View Post
    I was out picking up all my winterizing supplies today and thought of this thread. I've typically used the Rotella as well but stopped short today as when reading it did just say "diesel". It is what i've used other years but also didn't realize all of these differences in oils. I'll go out tomorrow and pick up the same stuff.

    The other thing I noticed today was the difference in RV Antifreeze. I got the same Winter Proof stuff as JohnnieMo has above but I see some are rated for only plastic pipes and others are only metal or safe for both....being the Winter Proof. It's also been hard to find this year. Usually all the parts places have it. Ended up getting it at Home Depot of all places.
    I took note of this RV antifreeze thing as well. Some say plastic, and some say metal and plastic. The stuff I got says both. I assume that would be best. I think leaving the impeller in this goo all winter is a good thing. I change it in the spring anyhow, so at most it will just keep it from crumbling. Whatever. I also bought that winter proof stuff at HD, and I bought it in May. They were blowing it out for 67 cents a gallon!! I bought every jug they had.

    I'm still waiting for a reply from PCM. I'd like to start running Castrol Edge 5W40 instead of the Royal Purple 15W40.... but they have never replied. By the ratings it is fine.

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    Boise, ID
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    Just out of curiosity, why the want for a 5w40?? Are you getting out early in the spring and staying out late in the fall??

  10. #55
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    Feb 2011
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    2013 Tigé Z1 Vx
    Quote Originally Posted by freeheel4life View Post
    Just out of curiosity, why the want for a 5w40?? Are you getting out early in the spring and staying out late in the fall??
    Simple answer is yes. I don't always get out early or late, but I DO always run the boat in those temps, even if just for servicing. After seeing how that 15W oil poured into the boat this fall, it had me thinking what startups must be like. Same deal for my Duramax, which also asks for 15W. It would only be necessary for a few starts per year in the boat, but they always say that startup is when damage occurs.

  11. I have been using 30 w for my 1997 21I with Marina Power v8. its getting harder to find straight 30w so I am thinking of just using 10-30w. Thoughts.

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